Coolant res spilling over!!!

JesseSVTJames

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The top radiator hose should be hot to the touch and the bottom hose should be warm. If that's how they both feel, your radiator is not restricted and the thermostat is still opening. You'd be surprised how old coolant and air pockets in the cooling system can make such a large impact.

How would air pockets get in if i hadnt checked it or added fluid?

That is what the go foreward is, get thermostat and burp the system... Should I do a coolant flush to?

Could have ran low and circulated air from that?
 
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Huff035

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I looked over the posts but didnt see it mentioned... did you check your oil to see if the level had gone up or if it was milky?

I'm currently in the process of pulling my motor because of problem that sounds exactly like yours that turned out to be a blown head gasket.
 

JesseSVTJames

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I looked over the posts but didnt see it mentioned... did you check your oil to see if the level had gone up or if it was milky?

I'm currently in the process of pulling my motor because of problem that sounds exactly like yours that turned out to be a blown head gasket.

I went home during my lunch hour and checked the dipstick for it to look as good as golden oil!!! So with that looking too good and me being worried I checked to see if there was any in the pan... Black gold!

I have also checked the plugs and it has no signs of Coolant... What now?

Get new thermostat and burp system. Than back to praying!!!
 

rtvickers

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If you go to Reische's website. If thats what kind of Tstat your getting. They have a burping process on there. I think it might be posted on here somewhere also. I was told to make sure I had to heat on high when burping. What does the radiator and intercooler fins look like?
 

JesseSVTJames

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If you go to Reische's website. If thats what kind of Tstat your getting. They have a burping process on there. I think it might be posted on here somewhere also. I was told to make sure I had to heat on high when burping. What does the radiator and intercooler fins look like?

The rad seems pretty good, and the intercooler is painted. Hardly has any marks on it!

the car only has 35k Miles.

EDIT****
OMG my friend suggested painting my intercooler!!! 200 Miles before this occured! Could that be it?
 
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rtvickers

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The rad seems pretty good, and the intercooler is painted. Hardly has any marks on it!

the car only has 35k Miles.

EDIT****
OMG my friend suggested painting my intercooler!!! 200 Miles before this occured! Could that be it?

If the Heat exchanger isnt letting air flow through to the radiator its possible it may cause higher temps. I dont know if it would cause it to run out of the cap. What are you IAT's?
 
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How would air pockets get in if i hadnt checked it or added fluid?

Sometimes the culprit can just be a weak radiator cap. The ones Ford uses are prone to failure.

I've overheated 3 times in my 03 Cobra. In every instance, it happened out of the blue. No tinkering with the cooling system whatsoever. In 1 of those instances, the welds on the Canton cracked after several thousand miles. In the other two isnatnces, I had the stock oem tank and I'm guessing it was the cap because both times boiled the t-stat and it opened fine.
 

rtvickers

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I have boost, wideband, A/F and fuel pressure.

I have a sct programmer!

You should be able to find them with your programer. I doubt thats whats making the issue. Im not sure exactly what they should be but if you find them post them and Im sure someone will be able to tell you if their ok. Make sure you get a reading at idle, and driving at normal temp.
 

JesseSVTJames

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Sometimes the culprit can just be a weak radiator cap. The ones Ford uses are prone to failure.

I've overheated 3 times in my 03 Cobra. In every instance, it happened out of the blue. No tinkering with the cooling system whatsoever. In 1 of those instances, the welds on the Canton cracked after several thousand miles. In the other two isnatnces, I had the stock oem tank and I'm guessing it was the cap because both times boiled the t-stat and it opened fine.

I'm really hoping this is what is happening! How can I determine whether or not the rad res has failed? I can't see the head gasket failing I have been quite easy to her this year with hardly 600 miles on her! Just getting good weather. Would be a shame to be out for a while!

I'm going to also pick up coolant strips tomorrow to see of the is any exhaust in it!
 
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I'm really hoping this is what is happening! How can I determine whether or not the rad res has failed? I can't see the head gasket failing I have been quite easy to her this year with hardly 600 miles on her! Just getting good weather. Would be a shame to be out for a while!

I'm going to also pick up coolant strips tomorrow to see of the is any exhaust in it!


I believe Jimmy has a handle on hwo you can visually determine this.

As far as how I determined the tank failed...I was burping the car slowly and over a course of 3 days every time. I always put a new radiator cap on after I overheat. What I found was that when it appeared I had perfectly burped the system and the fluid level was at the fill line, I would take the car for a spin. And when I did I nocticed that it would still push some coolant past the new cap. Based on that, I determined that I needed to replace the tank.

Personally I find these aluminum tanks to be a must. Just superior to the stock tank and the only way they are going to fail is if a weld breaks. I drive mine in hot and cold weather and these tanks hold up to all temps.

(P.S. People here also trie spooking me that it was a HG issue, but I refused to believe that until I replaced the tank).
 

JesseSVTJames

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I believe Jimmy has a handle on hwo you can visually determine this.

As far as how I determined the tank failed...I was burping the car slowly and over a course of 3 days every time. I always put a new radiator cap on after I overheat. What I found was that when it appeared I had perfectly burped the system and the fluid level was at the fill line, I would take the car for a spin. And when I did I nocticed that it would still push some coolant past the new cap. Based on that, I determined that I needed to replace the tank.

Personally I find these aluminum tanks to be a must. Just superior to the stock tank and the only way they are going to fail is if a weld breaks. I drive mine in hot and cold weather and these tanks hold up to all temps.

(P.S. People here also trie spooking me that it was a HG issue, but I refused to believe that until I replaced the tank).

I am so sure it isn't the head gasket. It's not that I doubt anyones experience or knowledge it just seems that is a little to severe. Especially to just come out of nowhere. No over heating no issues just boom.

But if it is I will be the first to say. They were all right. The way you are explaining things just seems to be bang on for my issue. Its all too familiar, to think any different.
 

rtvickers

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Im not saying you have a blown head gasket. Im just suggesting to check and make sure you dont before just throwing parts at it. I hope you dont have a head gasket problem. Hopefully its something simple.
 

JesseSVTJames

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Im not saying you have a blown head gasket. Im just suggesting to check and make sure you dont before just throwing parts at it. I hope you dont have a head gasket problem. Hopefully its something simple.

Thanks man for all of your help... It has been appreciated very much.

I will know a little more tomorrow, I am going to install the new tstat and burp the system very carefully! Any tips?

I will also test the coolant with the strips. Will the strips work with the coolant I pulled from the rad 2 days ago or should I test it with the stuff running through the system?
 
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rtvickers

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I'm not sure about the strips. I've never used them. I would test what's in there now after you get it up to temp. Before you put the Tstat in, they say you should drill a small hole in it to help with cooling. If you search it on here you should find it. I didn't do it but next time it's out I will do it. Anything that helps keep this thing cooler is alright with me. When mine gets up to 200 I start getting nervous. Mine usually runs between 170 to 197. I have dual aeroforce set and have my alert set at 215. After what I went through I don't want to take any chances. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

Dsg-shaker

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Thanks man for all of your help... It has been appreciated very much.

I will know a little more tomorrow, I am going to install the new tstat and burp the system very carefully! Any tips?

I will also test the coolant with the strips. Will the strips work with the coolant I pulled from the rad 2 days ago or should I test it with the stuff running through the system?

Test strips usually check nitrate and ppm of coolant. And test coolant that's coming out of the car or a sample pulled before you drain...
 

Dsg-shaker

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I'm not sure about the strips. I've never used them. I would test what's in there now after you get it up to temp. Before you put the Tstat in, they say you should drill a small hole in it to help with cooling. If you search it on here you should find it. I didn't do it but next time it's out I will do it. Anything that helps keep this thing cooler is alright with me. When mine gets up to 200 I start getting nervous. Mine usually runs between 170 to 197. I have dual aeroforce set and have my alert set at 215. After what I went through I don't want to take any chances. Good luck and keep us posted.

Keep a eye on coolant condition and the cooling system in good working order, nitrate/ppm/freeze protection and also if it's diluted... It helps to not mix conritrated coolant with unfiltered water, the hard minerals can build up in jacket corners and corrode out passages in the engine.

I wouldn't recommend drilling a extra bypass in the t-stat, it is designed to hold a certain pressure until it starts opening, it /could/ lead to issue down the road
 

JesseSVTJames

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Okay so I finished the install yesterday and it seems okay... but... Isnt there always a but...

So I burped the system and let the car run for 15-20 minutes and the car did not spill over. Upon turning the car off I could hear drips of something burning somewhere... So I jacked up the car and there is drips slowing coming off the fire wall dripping on to the headers. I cannot see up there very well because of the Kooks but I can see something sticking out of the fire wall and very slowly it drips down onto the long tube.

Any ideas?

If there were gases leaking into the coolant would 15-20 minutes be enough for it to spill over? Could that be a plug for the heater core or something?

Could it be run off from the previous leak?
 
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