Honestly, this is the angle I was coming from.
Cheaper to go forced induction than stay NA?
- Thread starter Sizeth3
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Honestly, this is the angle I was coming from.
11s are possible with tires and a tune. A converter should make it run consistently well into the 11s. Catless mid pipe or a catless header setup would get you further into the 11s, but a converter and good tune will be the best money spent on an auto.
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What kind of drop would I see from a converter and a tune?
Don't quote me on this, but if I remember correctly, a good tune alone should get you another .7-.8 off your ET with an auto. With traction and a converter, you could probably drop another .5. I don't run an auto, I'm just trying to remember from things I've read. Hopefully, another owner can give you estimates from personal experience.
I'm with this guy. Went high 12.9's(12.98-12.99) to low 13.00's stock. The few high twelves perfect condition mostly low 13.00's High 12.4's(12.47-12.99) -12.5's with a not so great tune. Same deal mostly 12.5's.
Now went no cats with an AED tune and tires will let you know shortly track opens up soon.
For reference though watched a guy at my track with boss mani/catless/tune/tire go 12.1's with an AED tune in not so great D.A.
Like the guy said tune/tire/converter/catless. After that the main place you are going to see a difference in performance is your wallet. Don't think I don't notice or appreciate other mods though. Long tubes sound so damn good and a boss manifold looks sexy as hell under the hood. Just not for me. You guys that run less than 11.50 without roll bars are lucky. I would get absolutely crucified. That's why you just gotta figure out what you want out of your car. For me it was never running faster than 11.50 from the beginning anyway. They did change the rules for new cars though so it is probably not as much of an issue as it used to be in the past.
Anybody else ever notice with good track prep you don't even need tires on stock converter because it leaves so soft? Like on a saturday during a points race I am good to go with a small burnout, but a friday night... Forget about it you need the radials.
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Here is my NA car vs a 2013 TT Challenger SRT8, it's much more bad ass to be fast NA!!
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-2013-Challenger-vs-NA-5-0-2012-GT&highlight=
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...-2013-Challenger-vs-NA-5-0-2012-GT&highlight=
I sort of see what you're saying about my prices being biased, but then again I think the same thing could be said for finding a used Paxton/Vortech for $3500-$4000 if we're looking for deals.
I already have the Airaid MIT. I have no E85 available where I live. I am interested in the circle D converter, and yes the $1200 price tag scares me too lol.
You do have good points. So stay N/A and build an 11 second car, is there an easy winning recipe for that which doesn't involve $1500 for headers or $1700 for an intake?
So are goals to ET around 11.50's? If so, like said above, go with the winning recipe. Convertor, Tire, Good Tune, and o/r mid pipe. That will do the job with good weather. I'd also consider some cheaper headers, like Pypes from beefcake or ebay headers lol (people have had great success with them for $300 stainless steel.
Here is the direction I'm going to go. My goals are to have a car that drives like or better than stock, but with more kick in the pants. I's like 11.50-11-80's 116-120 trap. I figure that hangs with some C7's and most quick higher $$$$ cars. My list is as follows (I'm cheap so I buy used or on sale): JLT CAI (paid $100), VMP Tune, Kooks axle back, resonators removed, rear lowering springs to level the car and adj pan hard bar. Most were to get the car to should like I want it to. The intake was so cheap and I love the look, the tune REALLY changed the car. Modifications on my to-buy list; LT's w/off road x pipe, Circle D convertor, Drag Radials, Relocation Brackets and revised tune. These mods should get me to where I'd like to be with the car.
Hope this helps!! It all comes down to goals. I'm not that guy that keeps needing more. I have a hard time dropping 5+ grand for mods. I can nickel and dime to my goals though.
I would love to run 11.50 n/a...
that's easy with an auto and some bolt-ons, getting deep into the 10s is the hard part..
I wonder how hard it is to go 10s with a manual NA. Also why is it nobody talks about the bbk longtubes? They're only $550. Is the power difference from the more expensive headers drastic? And the cj intake combo can be had for $1390 which is a little cheaper than stated earlier. It is expensive but when going for NA power it adds more top end power and rpm than the boss/stock gt mani.
Im hoping to get into the 11.50s this weekend with my m6. My mods are o/r x-pipe, bama tune, big and littles, UCA, and some weight reduction. I went 11.65 last year before the front runners and sway bar delete/radiator support, those two things dropped I think 60ish lbs. off the front of the car.
With full bolt ons, weight reduction, and properly set up suspension, I dont think 10.9x would be that hard to accomplish with an m6.
With full bolt ons, weight reduction, and properly set up suspension, I dont think 10.9x would be that hard to accomplish with an m6.
I have BBK ceramic coated header & love them. Fit great, look great! Best $550 I ever spent!
With today's technology 11.50's are slow... Diesel trucks are running those times at my track. My ordinal goal last year was to load the family up, drive to the track and run mid 11's. I too didn't want to mess with a roll bar. Then I realized how easy it is to make these coyotes fast. Its as easy to run mid 10's with a blower as it is to run mid 11's NA. The goal for this year is to load the family up, drive to the track & lay down 9.80's on 18" DR's
I hate that about diesels too, so easy to get blown away by a diesel, especially right now when I am running in the low 13/high 12 rangr
Blower but don't run the stock roush tune get a good dyno tune or tuned by one of the majors. A phase 1 kit with a good tune can put you in the 550-580 rwhp range I'd say that's the ticket. Not to mention you will get a good tune for your tranny and probably won't need that converter
I've been modifying different domestic cars pretty steadily over the last 15 years. During that time I've spent a lot of time drag racing, at cruise-ins, car clubs, forums, etc. In all that time I have never heard a forced induction owner say they wish they would have built their car N/A instead of FI. However, I have met people who definitely regretted building a N/A set-up instead of going FI.
Ultimately people should build their car however they want. Dollar for dollar a bolt-on car with a 150 nitrous kit is tough to beat.
Ultimately people should build their car however they want. Dollar for dollar a bolt-on car with a 150 nitrous kit is tough to beat.
I ran a 10.89 with the Roush, 82mm pulley, X-pipe, and JLT on 93 octane gas. Stock everything else. Pretty tough to beat that.
it depends on your goals I was going to go the NA route and got part way there. I started looking at the dollars to run in the 10s and boost just couldn't be beat unless you fill a lot of bottles which I did for awhile. I am pleased with the results and for me boosted was the best choice. I drive my 3900lb plus car to the track air down the et pros and blast off low 10s. I even run the stock rousch airbox. Most outside people have no idea my car is boosted and assume I am spraying lol
Op, will you be happy with mid 11s and not need more? If so just bolt on some mods for about 2k and call it a day. If not spend 6k and bolt on a blower. Easy decision!
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