Cheaper to go forced induction than stay NA?

[oldbones]

I love beating up FI cars with a NA car. Something about being the underdog in a race is fun, but unfortunately NA is very limited and now I'm installing a N20 kit to keep in the game with my friends. IF I where to build the car I again, I would go with a more aggressive cams and have skipped the catless x-pipe and gone straight to headers.

Another benefit with building NA was the chance to dial the suspension in and hook that extra power. I beat a lot of cars that make more HP and that have less suspension.

 

[FIVEHOE]

I think it depends on how you look at it. The way I see it, It is cheaper to stay NA unless you are willing to drop 15k+ to go supercharged/turbo. Yes, I know superchargers are ~7k after supporting mods and whatnot, but most people don't account for the fact that sooner or later your motor is going to grenade running 550+rwhp. I personally wouldn't pull the trigger on a supercharger unless I was financially prepared to buy that replacement motor.

with that said though, if you are looking for power for the price, turbo/supercharged is the way to go. Or N2O of course

 

[Sean@LethalPerformance]

I've been seriously contemplating taking off my CJ setup to go back to stock manifold and tb when I see lightly used paxton/vortech kits go from as low as $3.5k and $4.3-4.5k with fuel component

It's been really great surprising other cars with how well the cj does, but I'm really want to enter 130+ trap territory

 

[Tron84]

I think it's really important to figure out up front what you want out of the car so you don't dump tons of money into the car then decide to go a different direction. Then again most NA mods pair great with FI.
If you're like me and 400 hp felt slow after a while then 600 felt slow then 700...800....then the choice is obvious.

 

[Gray5.0]

If you do the cj setup you'll want some lu47s to run e85 so add that to the list. Also add a port job from drew. Installation isn't hard, but if you're going crazy na get cans and heads as well.

After all that you could buy and new turbo or sc setup. I say go boost. And if you do go boost get a turbo

 

[Troponin]

I think it depends on how you look at it. The way I see it, It is cheaper to stay NA unless you are willing to drop 15k+ to go supercharged/turbo. Yes, I know superchargers are ~7k after supporting mods and whatnot, but most people don't account for the fact that sooner or later your motor is going to grenade running 550+rwhp. I personally wouldn't pull the trigger on a supercharger unless I was financially prepared to buy that replacement motor.

with that said though, if you are looking for power for the price, turbo/supercharged is the way to go. Or N2O of course

That's why I went with a TVS and, for now, I am staying on the ROUSH tuning. It's only 500whp for now, however, I know most guys have run 600whp on the coyote for many, many miles without issue. Up from there tends to be a gamble. Regardless, my plan is exactly that; to save up and keep money on hold for a rebuild, then just go ahead and push the engine to 600-650whp. I will most likely be going with the ROUSH calibrations and a phase three though, which will still be around 590-600whp and still a pretty safe tune.

Regardless, replacing a set of rods will probably cost you in the neighborhood of $1,000 if you have a Ford mechanic do it, and if you go ahead and just replace all of the likely parts to break while you have it open, you're only looking at an additional $1,000-1500, so you're still doing pretty damn good in terms of cost.

 

[ford20]

That's why I went with a TVS and, for now, I am staying on the ROUSH tuning. It's only 500whp for now, however, I know most guys have run 600whp on the coyote for many, many miles without issue. Up from there tends to be a gamble. Regardless, my plan is exactly that; to save up and keep money on hold for a rebuild, then just go ahead and push the engine to 600-650whp. I will most likely be going with the ROUSH calibrations and a phase three though, which will still be around 590-600whp and still a pretty safe tune.

Regardless, replacing a set of rods will probably cost you in the neighborhood of $1,000 if you have a Ford mechanic do it, and if you go ahead and just replace all of the likely parts to break while you have it open, you're only looking at an additional $1,000-1500, so you're still doing pretty damn good in terms of cost.

..... Rotating assemblies are around $1,500-1,600 and while you are at it you should do oil pump gears along with a crankshaft sprocket. Then you have to balance the crankshaft which is going to be an additional cost unless you are having a shop put everything in your block. For me to get a new block, bore it to 318 CI, coated skirt, bearings, and a new block it came out to about 9800 IIRC but I also added a whole slew of other things on top of the block work etc. I could give you a rundown of what I had done and the cost but it isn't at all cheap.

 

[Scott8583]

I think it depends on how you look at it. The way I see it, It is cheaper to stay NA unless you are willing to drop 15k+ to go supercharged/turbo. Yes, I know superchargers are ~7k after supporting mods and whatnot, but most people don't account for the fact that sooner or later your motor is going to grenade running 550+rwhp. I personally wouldn't pull the trigger on a supercharger unless I was financially prepared to buy that replacement motor.

This is a Terrible way to look at it... Motors just don't blow up. People that did stupid things they weren't suposed to do is what blows a motor up. Leave it at 600 whp (650 w/ oil pump gears & E85) and enjoy it for years & years! How many Shelbys are running around that aren't blown up??
The problem is power is addictive... Boosted or NA!

 

[Blazer707@TBR]

On a FI setup it is all about the fuel (E85) and good tune.

 

[GearsNBeers]

OP i guess it depends on what you want out of your car. I think your NA numbers are quite biased for prices and are a little exaggerated. If you wanted a smart NA build you don't need longtubes or an intake manifold. You don't need a CAI either but for the sake of argument lets go with the modular tube for the stock airbox. Ford did a very good job with the coyote motor in general in that aspect. The hp gains from those three pieces just aren't that significant to warrant such an inflated price. Even the stock auto gear ratio is respectable. If you really felt the need for longtubes and offroad check with beef. He constantly has great deals on pypes or the cheap chinese version of (stainless works?) can't remember but far below 1500 dollars. Also maybe because I am a Hollander but the best part about being a car enthusiast is finding deals. Never pay full price. Check out this forums market. People are constantly trading in their cars and selling parts for great prices. Also hit up swap meets/ car shows/ car club cars and coffee etc. The one thing for me being an auto that I hear you on is getting past the 1200 bucks for a convertor. If you ever figure that issue out let me know as that is something I have been dreading for awhile now

For a nice na build wouldn't you go
Tuner
Airraid Modular Tube
Wheels and Tires
Upper/Lower Control Arms
Circle D
Offroad Midpipe/AB of your choice
New Injectors And Price for a Corn e85 Tune

Enjoy your 11 second street/ strip car that can drive across the country and get great mpg on the highway.

 

[nordy racer]

I had blower cars before and this is my first full NA car.. I was just at a show this past weekend and 90% of the Mustangs there had a blower, it looked like a dealership lot.. everyone had one lol..

 

[CobraRed_96_GT]

How many Shelbys are running around that aren't blown up??

Are you inferring Shelby's have the same engine, internals or even compression ratio?

 

[Kyle55]

For 6 grand you can have a badass N/A setup. Dont go Cj intake or stage 3 cams because the drivability is bad. Get 12/5/1 compression pistons, ported heads, boss intake for drivability, and e85 would be sick. Additionally, add billet oil pump gears,

 

[50blackout]

OP i guess it depends on what you want out of your car. I think your NA numbers are quite biased for prices and are a little exaggerated. If you wanted a smart NA build you don't need longtubes or an intake manifold. You don't need a CAI either but for the sake of argument lets go with the modular tube for the stock airbox. Ford did a very good job with the coyote motor in general in that aspect. The hp gains from those three pieces just aren't that significant to warrant such an inflated price. Even the stock auto gear ratio is respectable. If you really felt the need for longtubes and offroad check with beef. He constantly has great deals on pypes or the cheap chinese version of (stainless works?) can't remember but far below 1500 dollars. Also maybe because I am a Hollander but the best part about being a car enthusiast is finding deals. Never pay full price. Check out this forums market. People are constantly trading in their cars and selling parts for great prices. Also hit up swap meets/ car shows/ car club cars and coffee etc. The one thing for me being an auto that I hear you on is getting past the 1200 bucks for a convertor. If you ever figure that issue out let me know as that is something I have been dreading for awhile now

For a nice na build wouldn't you go
Tuner
Airraid Modular Tube
Wheels and Tires
Upper/Lower Control Arms
Circle D
Offroad Midpipe/AB of your choice
New Injectors And Price for a Corn e85 Tune

Enjoy your 11 second street/ strip car that can drive across the country and get great mpg on the highway.

+1

Listen to this guy!!!

 

[DSG2003SVT]

For 6 grand you can have a badass N/A setup. Dont go Cj intake or stage 3 cams because the drivability is bad. Get 12/5/1 compression pistons, ported heads, boss intake for drivability, and e85 would be sick. Additionally, add billet oil pump gears,

With the right tuner, you'll have no drivability issues with the CJ intake and Comp stage 3 cams.

 

[Mach828]

Stripping down a 35k car only to spend 10k in NA mods to get it to run 10s, and not being able to resell it, is straight stupid. Do a few basic bolt ons or just supercharge it. This way the car and parts are easy to resell and return to stock.

You want a 10 second NA coyote I'd go get a roller fox chassis and do an engine swap.

 

[11Sec_Lx]

I agree with March828.

 

[coyote302]

Stripping down a 35k car only to spend 10k in NA mods to get it to run 10s, and not being able to resell it, is straight stupid. Do a few basic bolt ons or just supercharge it. This way the car and parts are easy to resell and return to stock.

You want a 10 second NA coyote I'd go get a roller fox chassis and do an engine swap.

you can run 10s without spending 10k lol....can be done with a few bolt on,stock long block and almost full weight car....

 

[redline5.0]

For 6 grand you can have a badass N/A setup. Dont go Cj intake or stage 3 cams because the drivability is bad. Get 12/5/1 compression pistons, ported heads, boss intake for drivability, and e85 would be sick. Additionally, add billet oil pump gears,

Uhhhhh what. My CJ intake and stage 3 cams drives stock as shit. People who have drivability issues on the cj manis or s3 cams have a shity tuner. I'm also in the same boat as nordy, I wanted to be different and see how far I can push my n/a setup as well. 10's n/a on my daily driver, I'll take that. And if I get bored I'll put my n/a cams back in and go boost and sell the comps.

 

[Sizeth3]

OP i guess it depends on what you want out of your car. I think your NA numbers are quite biased for prices and are a little exaggerated. If you wanted a smart NA build you don't need longtubes or an intake manifold. You don't need a CAI either but for the sake of argument lets go with the modular tube for the stock airbox. Ford did a very good job with the coyote motor in general in that aspect. The hp gains from those three pieces just aren't that significant to warrant such an inflated price. Even the stock auto gear ratio is respectable. If you really felt the need for longtubes and offroad check with beef. He constantly has great deals on pypes or the cheap chinese version of (stainless works?) can't remember but far below 1500 dollars. Also maybe because I am a Hollander but the best part about being a car enthusiast is finding deals. Never pay full price. Check out this forums market. People are constantly trading in their cars and selling parts for great prices. Also hit up swap meets/ car shows/ car club cars and coffee etc. The one thing for me being an auto that I hear you on is getting past the 1200 bucks for a convertor. If you ever figure that issue out let me know as that is something I have been dreading for awhile now

For a nice na build wouldn't you go
Tuner
Airraid Modular Tube
Wheels and Tires
Upper/Lower Control Arms
Circle D
Offroad Midpipe/AB of your choice
New Injectors And Price for a Corn e85 Tune

Enjoy your 11 second street/ strip car that can drive across the country and get great mpg on the highway.

I sort of see what you're saying about my prices being biased, but then again I think the same thing could be said for finding a used Paxton/Vortech for $3500-$4000 if we're looking for deals.

I already have the Airaid MIT. I have no E85 available where I live. I am interested in the circle D converter, and yes the $1200 price tag scares me too lol .

You do have good points. So stay N/A and build an 11 second car, is there an easy winning recipe for that which doesn't involve $1500 for headers or $1700 for an intake?