(Note- this is written for people don't have a lot of experience or who are not very comfortable with the proceedure.)
Pictures will be in the second post after this!
The only tools you need for the pulley swap are the pulley puller (ASP or PulleyBoys); the new pulley, a little anti-sieze or oil, two wrenches, a new belt and a cold beer (that'll come in handy shortly). Total time on your first try will be 30-45 minutes; after that you can probably do it in 15-20 max.
I used an ASP puller; the overall operation is the same with both PB and ASP although the size of the wrenchs will differ.
Step 1. Disconnect the battery cable (either one). Assuming you already have the belt guard removed by taking off the 3 nuts, remove the pilot screw from the middle of the pulley, it comes of easily.
Step 2. Remove the blower belt. The idler tension arm is on the left as you're facing the engine. At then end of the arm where the pulley is, you'll see a square hole. Pop your 1/2" socket wrench in and push down- this will release the tension and allow you to slip the belt off (it's easier to slip off one of the smooth pullies first to get more slack to take it off the blower pulley). Leave the rest of the belt on.
Step 3. Measure the distance between the back of the stock pulley and the blower housing. I used a piece of cardboard and a marker. Lay the cardboard across the top of the pulley with the back of the cardboard resting against the front of the blower and mark where the pulley edges are. This will help line it up during re-install of the new pulley. (My instructions said the new pulley would be flush with the shaft which wasn't exactly correct).
Step 4. Slip the large U-shaped piece behind the blower pulley and assemble the puller by adding the two (ASP) or three (PB) guide bolts and the main center bolt that does all the work. Once assembled, the whole thing moves as one unit- the pilot screws just align the back plate with the front plate, you don't tighten them very much.
Step 5. Thread the main, large bolt into the now-vacant pilot screw hole in the end of the blower shaft (you'll have a large bolt that tapers at the end into a smaller screw which fits the pilot hole). I went finger-tight then backed it out a 1/4 turn for some wiggle room. The big bolt must not turn during install/removal.
Step 6. At this point, you should have a large nut and washer between the front bar (ASP) or plate (PB). Put oil or anti-sieze on the threads and both sides of the washer. The job requires a lot of force and you don't want the added overhead of friction between the nut and washer.
Step 7. Secure the big bolt so it doesn't move. I used a 15/16ths socket and breaker bar (ASP), just let it rest on top of something solid. I also added a small strip of electrical tap on top of the socket so i could make sure the nut wasn't rotating.
Note- I also put a piece of electrical tape on top of the blower snout right behind the pulley so i could gauge progress as the pulley was comming off. Not required, but it give a little piece of mind that all that effort is actually moving something.
Step 8. Using another wrench, crank on the nut thats between the pulley and the front puller plate. This will a) press on the blower shaft and b) apply pressure to the front plate which will pull on the guide bolts connected to the back plate behind the pulley and viola...
Note- I used a 12" crescent wrench and braced myself against the quarter panel (watch out for buttons on your pants) and pulled... HARD... You'll get to a point where you think you'll break something (this is where the beer comes in handy). You need to psych yourself up and just keep cranking. My 1" thick piece of aluminum bar on the ASP setup actually started bending before the pulley moved. IMHO, getting over the mental part is harder than the physical part.
Step 9. This is where that electrical tape on the blower snout comes in handy. You'll start to see a widening gap as the pulley comes off and the effort will decrease greatly the more the pulley slides off.
Step 10. Reinstalling the new pulley is the same operation in reverse- easy in the beginning, very hard at the end. You only use the front puller plate/bar with the nut on the other side. Now the big bolt (while still not moving!) is pulling on the blower shaft rather than pressing on it.
Step 11. After the new pulley is on (using line of site, your cardboard or ruler to make sure it's lined up with the other pulleys), make note of how the belt is routed then slip it off the other pulleys and remove completely (twist it sideways to get it off the idle tensioner, it's a tight fit behind the arm).
Step 12. Install the new belt. This is relatively easy since you have smooth pulleys and grooved pulleys and the smooth parts are for the back of the belt and grooved for the inside part of the belt.
That's it! Put the battery cable back on, fire it up and make sure the belt is working and in alignment. I don't have my chip yet (hello? JDM?) so I drove it fairly easy for the first few days to let the freshly-reset engine computer to get cozy with the new airflow.
Forget gears with this mod, IMHO. First is over really quick and the pull in 2-6 is nothing short of amazing
I have as much pull in 6th as i did in 5th before the mod.
Pictures will be in the second post after this!
The only tools you need for the pulley swap are the pulley puller (ASP or PulleyBoys); the new pulley, a little anti-sieze or oil, two wrenches, a new belt and a cold beer (that'll come in handy shortly). Total time on your first try will be 30-45 minutes; after that you can probably do it in 15-20 max.
I used an ASP puller; the overall operation is the same with both PB and ASP although the size of the wrenchs will differ.
Step 1. Disconnect the battery cable (either one). Assuming you already have the belt guard removed by taking off the 3 nuts, remove the pilot screw from the middle of the pulley, it comes of easily.
Step 2. Remove the blower belt. The idler tension arm is on the left as you're facing the engine. At then end of the arm where the pulley is, you'll see a square hole. Pop your 1/2" socket wrench in and push down- this will release the tension and allow you to slip the belt off (it's easier to slip off one of the smooth pullies first to get more slack to take it off the blower pulley). Leave the rest of the belt on.
Step 3. Measure the distance between the back of the stock pulley and the blower housing. I used a piece of cardboard and a marker. Lay the cardboard across the top of the pulley with the back of the cardboard resting against the front of the blower and mark where the pulley edges are. This will help line it up during re-install of the new pulley. (My instructions said the new pulley would be flush with the shaft which wasn't exactly correct).
Step 4. Slip the large U-shaped piece behind the blower pulley and assemble the puller by adding the two (ASP) or three (PB) guide bolts and the main center bolt that does all the work. Once assembled, the whole thing moves as one unit- the pilot screws just align the back plate with the front plate, you don't tighten them very much.
Step 5. Thread the main, large bolt into the now-vacant pilot screw hole in the end of the blower shaft (you'll have a large bolt that tapers at the end into a smaller screw which fits the pilot hole). I went finger-tight then backed it out a 1/4 turn for some wiggle room. The big bolt must not turn during install/removal.
Step 6. At this point, you should have a large nut and washer between the front bar (ASP) or plate (PB). Put oil or anti-sieze on the threads and both sides of the washer. The job requires a lot of force and you don't want the added overhead of friction between the nut and washer.
Step 7. Secure the big bolt so it doesn't move. I used a 15/16ths socket and breaker bar (ASP), just let it rest on top of something solid. I also added a small strip of electrical tap on top of the socket so i could make sure the nut wasn't rotating.
Note- I also put a piece of electrical tape on top of the blower snout right behind the pulley so i could gauge progress as the pulley was comming off. Not required, but it give a little piece of mind that all that effort is actually moving something.
Step 8. Using another wrench, crank on the nut thats between the pulley and the front puller plate. This will a) press on the blower shaft and b) apply pressure to the front plate which will pull on the guide bolts connected to the back plate behind the pulley and viola...
Note- I used a 12" crescent wrench and braced myself against the quarter panel (watch out for buttons on your pants) and pulled... HARD... You'll get to a point where you think you'll break something (this is where the beer comes in handy). You need to psych yourself up and just keep cranking. My 1" thick piece of aluminum bar on the ASP setup actually started bending before the pulley moved. IMHO, getting over the mental part is harder than the physical part.
Step 9. This is where that electrical tape on the blower snout comes in handy. You'll start to see a widening gap as the pulley comes off and the effort will decrease greatly the more the pulley slides off.
Step 10. Reinstalling the new pulley is the same operation in reverse- easy in the beginning, very hard at the end. You only use the front puller plate/bar with the nut on the other side. Now the big bolt (while still not moving!) is pulling on the blower shaft rather than pressing on it.
Step 11. After the new pulley is on (using line of site, your cardboard or ruler to make sure it's lined up with the other pulleys), make note of how the belt is routed then slip it off the other pulleys and remove completely (twist it sideways to get it off the idle tensioner, it's a tight fit behind the arm).
Step 12. Install the new belt. This is relatively easy since you have smooth pulleys and grooved pulleys and the smooth parts are for the back of the belt and grooved for the inside part of the belt.
That's it! Put the battery cable back on, fire it up and make sure the belt is working and in alignment. I don't have my chip yet (hello? JDM?) so I drove it fairly easy for the first few days to let the freshly-reset engine computer to get cozy with the new airflow.
Forget gears with this mod, IMHO. First is over really quick and the pull in 2-6 is nothing short of amazing
I have as much pull in 6th as i did in 5th before the mod.
