Thinking about installing a canton oil pan (15-784) on my 03 Cobra. How difficult of a job is it. What would I have to do. Price of the pan isn't too much. Sounds like maybe cheap insurance.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
canton oil pan
- Thread starter kobra01
- Start date
I am not sure (I toyed with the idea a few years ago) but think it involved droppong the motor. If I recall correctly, its a real bitch of a job, only worth doing if you've got other major stuff you want or need to do. Again, I don't remember exactly what the install entails, but I can tell you if it wasn't a big job I'd have one on mine already!!!
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I had to learn the lesson the hard and expensive way. If you are going to open track your car with track tires then you need the Canton or similar oil pan.
I highly recommend a road racing oil pan to anyone that is having engine work done. It's cheap insurance and very simple to do when the engine is pulled.
The installation is straight forward but you will need to drop the k-member or lift the engine. I suggest having a shop do it unless you have sufficient equipment and knowledge.
I highly recommend a road racing oil pan to anyone that is having engine work done. It's cheap insurance and very simple to do when the engine is pulled.
The installation is straight forward but you will need to drop the k-member or lift the engine. I suggest having a shop do it unless you have sufficient equipment and knowledge.
You have to drop the K member. It was one of the very few mods that I did not do myself. I could not get the car high enough on my jack stands to feel comfortable tackling this job at home.
I highly recommend this mod for anyone tracking a 32V DOHC Ford, who has moved up to an R compound or DOT legal slick, or any tire running on a highly cambered(banked) track.
Three reasons (at least)
The slosh factor from the higher Gs can cause a momentary loss of oil pressure.
The sustained high RPMs plus a Cobra oil pump(high volume) pumps a lot of oil and the stock pan only holds 6.5 quarts or 7 if you over fill a little bit.(If you can't do this mod overfilling is recommended, within reason)
Our DOHC engines have a known drain back issue.
When you combine these factors you have the potential for a spun bearing or worse yet, a possible ka boom!
The Canton pan when filled to your previous fill line will be 8+ quarts.
If you are looking for max dyno numbers you can safely run 6.5 and make a slight bit more power.
I run mine up to the fill line, I'll take max protection.
:beer:
I highly recommend this mod for anyone tracking a 32V DOHC Ford, who has moved up to an R compound or DOT legal slick, or any tire running on a highly cambered(banked) track.
Three reasons (at least)
The slosh factor from the higher Gs can cause a momentary loss of oil pressure.
The sustained high RPMs plus a Cobra oil pump(high volume) pumps a lot of oil and the stock pan only holds 6.5 quarts or 7 if you over fill a little bit.(If you can't do this mod overfilling is recommended, within reason)
Our DOHC engines have a known drain back issue.
When you combine these factors you have the potential for a spun bearing or worse yet, a possible ka boom!
The Canton pan when filled to your previous fill line will be 8+ quarts.
If you are looking for max dyno numbers you can safely run 6.5 and make a slight bit more power.
I run mine up to the fill line, I'll take max protection.
:beer:
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I thought it was going to be way too involved for my technical ability. Maybe I can get Carlos to do it for me. Ya right.
I must have missed this thread. Ken i don't think you need that pan yet. Maybe once you replace the stock f1's:banana:.
An Accusump would also be a great addition...
If your not ready to drop the k-member you should be able to install the accusump without messing with it... It's not as good as adding the Canton and both really should be done if your driving your car hard with any sort of sticky tire on track.
Patrick
If your not ready to drop the k-member you should be able to install the accusump without messing with it... It's not as good as adding the Canton and both really should be done if your driving your car hard with any sort of sticky tire on track.
Patrick
Thinking of doing a K-Member swap soon, and was considering changing the oil pan while I had it apart. I'm assuming the MM K won't allow me to do it later once it is in place.
I read on another thread that Canton aluminum pans were recommended, due to a different welding process (TIG vs. MIG, I forget which was which) that did not leave welding slag in the pan.
It looks like Canton only makes on version of the RR pan? Is a windage tray recommended as well?
And will the stock dipstick continue to be accurate with a Canton RR pan?
I read on another thread that Canton aluminum pans were recommended, due to a different welding process (TIG vs. MIG, I forget which was which) that did not leave welding slag in the pan.
It looks like Canton only makes on version of the RR pan? Is a windage tray recommended as well?
And will the stock dipstick continue to be accurate with a Canton RR pan?
I installed one when I change to Agent 47's suspension. It was really simple to do on jack stands with the K member out of the way. I also installed the canton windage tray. I spoke to a ford powertrain engineer about the tray and he said I should use the canton tray over the stock one so I did.
On my other car with a 4.6 n/a, I installed a 3 quart accusump and a Champ road race pan. I got the Accusump Electric Pressure Control Valve after seeing the oil pressure constantly surging while refilling the accusump.
www.cantonracingproducts.com - 24-273 - ACCUSUMP EPC VALVE 35-40 PSI
With the EPC valve it will allow the sump to fill but won't release until the pressure drops below the specified value. In my case 35 lbs. I also have it on a switch on the circuit and never turn it on while driving on the street except for pre-oiling before the first start.
On my other car with a 4.6 n/a, I installed a 3 quart accusump and a Champ road race pan. I got the Accusump Electric Pressure Control Valve after seeing the oil pressure constantly surging while refilling the accusump.
www.cantonracingproducts.com - 24-273 - ACCUSUMP EPC VALVE 35-40 PSI
With the EPC valve it will allow the sump to fill but won't release until the pressure drops below the specified value. In my case 35 lbs. I also have it on a switch on the circuit and never turn it on while driving on the street except for pre-oiling before the first start.
I ran numerous event in the last three years (18,000 miles) with the stock pan but with a windage tray.
If it's in the budget, putting on a set of headers while the K-member is down makes that job much easier.
I couldn't afford them when we had to replace my pan, so someday I'll end up paying for that. :cuss:
I couldn't afford them when we had to replace my pan, so someday I'll end up paying for that. :cuss:
Not sure about that, if you go off and hit the pan, you might end up having more issues than just a bent oil pan.
Wish I had thought about getting a pan a year ago when I installed my K member. I was a super noob then, so it did not even cross my mind. So I just add an extra quart.
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