buying my first terminator What mods

canadiancobra

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I am looking at getting a 03 vert with 23000m The mods are a 2.3 whipple at 12psi dyno tuned at 485rwhp and 438tq on a mustang dyno, predaror tuner, mafia mass air flow voltage extender, wms cold air intake, 95 mass air flow sensor, fuel pump voltage booster, fluedyne heat exchanger and accufab throttel body, full exhast no headers, micloud clutch and stock tranny, subframe conectors and bushings in rear suspension. What do i need to make a reliable 600rwhp. I think i need injectores and fuel pump but i am looking for a complete list as what i need as this is all new to me. The guy took car to the track once and it ran a 12.5 at 124 with a 2.2 60f. I have been into cars but my last car was a 89 fox with a 347 went 11.6 at 116 with a 1.57 60f but that was 6y ago and i am lost about modifing a terminator so i need some advice
 
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cbr repsol

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thats pretty good power for that boost level. Throw on a 3.0 inch upper and you should make around 580 rwhp if u have a single blade tb. do u have stock pumps? you would be fine with a bap at 600rwhp. Unless u wanna go e85 then u need some serious pumps. with proper 60 ft and drag radials that should get u low 11's or high 10 sec time slips.

as to the injectors im sure u have 60's at a minimum that should be more than enough for 600rwhp.

What octane u using?
 
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canadiancobra

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thats pretty good power for that boost level. Throw on a 3.0 inch upper and you should make around 580 rwhp if u have a single blade tb. do u have stock pumps? you would be fine with a bap at 600rwhp. Unless u wanna go e85 then u need some serious pumps. with proper 60 ft and drag radials that should get u low 11's or high 10 sec time slips.

The mods i listed are all that is done to the car powertrain wise the fuel system is basicaly stock no injectors or pump which has me a little worryied The car will run on 91 octane as that is all i have avalible
 
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cbr repsol

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Ok then I would add 60# Injectors and a 3.0upper pully if u have a gen 1 whipple. Should make 17 pounds of boost. If u have a gen 2 go 3.25 upper I have seen members bere make 17 with that pully combo on gen 2. Your also going to need a retune. U mentio.ed voltage booster to fuel pumps..that a bap so your fuel system will be fine for your given goal.
 

canadiancobra

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Ok then I would add 60# Injectors and a 3.0upper pully if u have a gen 1 whipple. Should make 17 pounds of boost. If u have a gen 2 go 3.25 upper I have seen members bere make 17 with that pully combo on gen 2. Your also going to need a retune. U mentio.ed voltage booster to fuel pumps..that a bap so your fuel system will be fine for your given goal.

Is a bap a boost a pump and i have also hered people talking about a head cooling mod and also a 26 spline imput shaft for the trany what are these and whey are they needed How do i know if i have a gen1 or 11 whipple the blower is 5y old
 
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raym5_0

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Is a bap a boost a pump and i have also hered people talking about a head cooling mod and also a 26 spline imput shaft for the trany what are these and whey are they needed How do i know if i have a gen1 or 11 whipple the blower is 5y old


call Whipple with your Serial number, its located on the top by the seam between the rotor case and front snout.:beer:

as mentioned above. 3" upper on a Gen 1, approx 17psi.
I was getting 16.8psi on my Gen 1 w/ 3" upper, I have gone to a 2.8 now, and seeing 19psi.
 

cbr repsol

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Is a bap a boost a pump and i have also hered people talking about a head cooling mod and also a 26 spline imput shaft for the trany what are these and whey are they needed How do i know if i have a gen1 or 11 whipple the blower is 5y old

Yes a bap is a boost a pump....they are usually mounted in the drivers side trunk area . U have to pull the cover out and they connect into the wiring harness near the fuel pump driver module. If u have one u cant miss it..they are red in color and say kenne bell.There are 2 head cooling mods ,ldc made one that goes on the rear of the passenger side head. the other tapes into a freeze plug behind the blower. Its easy to spot because there is a fitting with a extra hose running from the top radiator hose to the rear of tbe drivers side behind blower.U have to pull the trans to install the ldc cooling mod so it would be tough to know if its there.as for the input shaft. The stock one is a 10 spline which are know to snap or twist when driven hard at the track. 26 spline is much stronger but u have to have a 26 spline clutch to compliment it or you will never be able to install it. As for knowing if u have it or not u have to pull the trans to really know. The info about whipple is correct as stated by the other person.
 
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canadiancobra

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how important is the cooling mod is it a must have or somthing that is not really needed also is it a big advantage to changing gears in these cars to lets say a 4.10 becaus i know they are heavy but the also make lots of torqe and with the 6 speed what kind of rpm on the highway with 4.10s this car will be first a street car not a drag car
 
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canadiancobra

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Another question is what kind of 60f times are you guys seeing with drag radials My old fox on 10.5 et drags lanching at 6000 rpm with 4.30 did a best of 1.57 but the car was light 3000lbs with me making 340rwhp
 

cbr repsol

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how important is the cooling mod is it a must have or somthing that is not really needed also is it a big advantage to changing gears in these cars to lets say a 4.10 becaus i know they are heavy but the also make lots of torqe and with the 6 speed what kind of rpm on the highway with 4.10s this car will be first a street car not a drag car

U really dont wanna go 4.10 on these cars...3.73 max the stock 3.55s serve pretty well and isnt much difference between the two imo. If your going to do high speed runs cooling mods are important. The pison to wall clearence is tight on these motors in factory trim.
 

canadiancobra

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U really dont wanna go 4.10 on these cars...3.73 max the stock 3.55s serve pretty well and isnt much difference between the two imo. If your going to do high speed runs cooling mods are important. The pison to wall clearence is tight on these motors in factory trim.

When you are talking high speed runs you mean taking it out and going for top speed not drag racing in the quarter mile right
 

MoKo_03SVT

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just my humble opinion...but...i totally agree on going against the 4.10's in these cars. maybe in a mustang GT or something not supercharged.

these cars make PLENTY of torque already from the blower...and with all of the hp you arent able to get the most from the engine/your hp, because you will be running out of gear waaay to fast. even if it was a track car, i wouldnt do 4.10s! if anything as mentioned go the OTHER way with the gears to 3.73s, if you are going to change gears. personally i think they nailed it with these 3.55s. i wouldnt (and havent) change gears at all, personally.

dont get me wrong...there are 1 or 2 out there, that DO have 4.10s....but they are pretty few and far between, and are cars that see the track a lot.
 

FromGTtoSVT

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4.10's on these cars is pointless......If you enjoy having no first or second gears, then go for it. On the street, it's just stupid.........

You should definitly upgrade the fuel system and then have the car put on a dyno and re-tuned. Sounds like who ever you bought it from kinda half assed it
 

canadiancobra

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I am going to get the car next weekend i am just stoked I will be ordering a set of 60lb injectors and pullies for 17lbs of boost do i need to take of the blower to change the injectors will i need a gasket set Will the stock fuel pumps work with a boost a pump or do i need different pumps I know a member said it would be fine but i want to make sure i dont have the cash to do a rebuild right now and will this combo get me in the low 11 sec times our track is not the best I am hoping for 580-600 rwhp is the micloud clutch a good cluthe or is it cheap and will need upgrading I will be getting it retuned on the dyno but am i safe to drive it to the shop 200m thanks for all of your help this forum is great for us new guys thanks again I was just wondering if there are any other canadian members on this site as there are only about 15 cobras for sale in canada and i got the only whippled cobra that isent going for 28+ I am getting it for 24 which i think is a good price
 
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cbr repsol

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I am going to get the car next weekend i am just stoked I will be ordering a set of 60lb injectors and pullies for 17lbs of boost do i need to take of the blower to change the injectors will i need a gasket set Will the stock fuel pumps work with a boost a pump or do i need different pumps I know a member said it would be fine but i want to make sure i dont have the cash to do a rebuild right now and will this combo get me in the low 11 sec times our track is not the best I am hoping for 580-600 rwhp is the micloud clutch a good cluthe or is it cheap and will need upgrading I will be getting it retuned on the dyno but am i safe to drive it to the shop 200m thanks for all of your help this forum is great for us new guys thanks again I was just wondering if there are any other canadian members on this site as there are only about 15 cobras for sale in canada and i got the only whippled cobra that isent going for 28+ I am getting it for 24 which i think is a good price

U have to pull the blower to change the injectors...i got away with not pulling the blower by slightly bending the fuel rail..not recommended but it worked with no issues. Like I said before bap is fine for given hp goal.no gaskets needed unless the stock metal blower gasket wasnt used and rtv was Instead. U wont make 580 unless u have a single blade throttle body. it will be a bit choked up like mine,thats why im only at 552.mcloud clutches are some of the best but bet the twin disc.$$$ though and upgrade your input shaft to 26 spline.
 

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