Built Engines

manny231988

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That's beautiful man! I saw it when he posted it on fb and wished I went with those colors lol.. What gaskets did you go with? I remember my shipping being 800 round trip.. I'm in MN tho.

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I ended going with the Cometic MLX since I had the copper o ring installed in my sleeves and ya shipping was more I think mostly cuz my crate was oversized as I built it but I built that sucker like a tank haha
 

manny231988

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$27k using your block/heads or all new stuff? Amazing engine either way. Jealous!!!


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Haha na it was reusing my heads and block my car had 17k when it went under the knife these engines are very expensive to build the most expensive part was the billet crank it was like 6 grand after they balanced it and gun drilled mains and all the special stuff they do to it
 

manny231988

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Alright guys for those guys running an ice tank did any of y’all perform a 1 inch in and out at the ibtercooler for better cooling ? Im trying to see if there is a way to weld AN fittings straight to the inter cooler and have space too hook up lines to it without interference with the belt, I know I can do the j fab but wanted to see how you guys are doing it if there is several different ways ?thanks in advance this is the last piece of the puzzle
 

Bearbo

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Thread delivers. The Fischer unit looks awesome. I am waiting for the Department of Boost offering in the Spring (hopefully).
 

biminiLX

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Alright guys for those guys running an ice tank did any of y’all perform a 1 inch in and out at the ibtercooler for better cooling ? Im trying to see if there is a way to weld AN fittings straight to the inter cooler and have space too hook up lines to it without interference with the belt, I know I can do the j fab but wanted to see how you guys are doing it if there is several different ways ?thanks in advance this is the last piece of the puzzle
I have 1” lines and fittings to and from the rear ice tank. You can go even farther, and likely with the built 5.8 and big 4.7 KB it’ll be worth it. The right pump is key. I added a second stock pump, one on each side of the system and have great flow. Also remember the stock pump is at 50% from Ford, so with larger gauge wire you can maximize your stock pump.
-J
 

manny231988

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I have 1” lines and fittings to and from the rear ice tank. You can go even farther, and likely with the built 5.8 and big 4.7 KB it’ll be worth it. The right pump is key. I added a second stock pump, one on each side of the system and have great flow. Also remember the stock pump is at 50% from Ford, so with larger gauge wire you can maximize your stock pump.
-J
Hey J did you do the J2 fab set up ? Would you mind sending me some pics of his your set up at the engine?
 

biminiLX

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Hey J did you do the J2 fab set up ? Would you mind sending me some pics of his your set up at the engine?
No unfortunately I didn’t upgrade the intercooler fittings like J2 fab does. I added the Bigun core and modified the CNC ported lower intake I bought from Birdoc.
The fittings at the engine are stock as are the heat exchanger. Water comes out of the heat exchanger and then adapts to 1” back to rear tank, out of tank to stock pump and then 1” up into lower intercooler core via stock smaller line.
It works very well on dyno and strip.
I’m sure it helps on street too but I’m mainly interested in track performance and trap IAT2s were basically just over ambient.
More can be done as J2fab, Bad Company and Poisonous West are doing.
-J
 

manny231988

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Ya I’m too far into the build to cheap out now, I guess I’ll just do the j2 fab kit, to the new kB big gun, who did your CNc on your manifold, I was gonna send it to stiegemeier and have him do it but after thinking about if it doesn’t port match, I talked to Tim at Mpr and he says he’s gots the specs for my heads and alll he does is type them in and no problem they will be identical, but I don’t think Tim MPR does all the mods on the upper parts of the manifold, did you modify the bypass area on your manifold did you delete like stiegemeier shows in their website ?

No unfortunately I didn’t upgrade the intercooler fittings like J2 fab does. I added the Bigun core and modified the CNC ported lower intake I bought from Birdoc.
The fittings at the engine are stock as are the heat exchanger. Water comes out of the heat exchanger and then adapts to 1” back to rear tank, out of tank to stock pump and then 1” up into lower intercooler core via stock smaller line.
It works very well on dyno and strip.
I’m sure it helps on street too but I’m mainly interested in track performance and trap IAT2s were basically just over ambient.
More can be done as J2fab, Bad Company and Poisonous West are doing.
-J
 

Poisonous West

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Ya I’m too far into the build to cheap out now, I guess I’ll just do the j2 fab kit, to the new kB big gun, who did your CNc on your manifold, I was gonna send it to stiegemeier and have him do it but after thinking about if it doesn’t port match, I talked to Tim at Mpr and he says he’s gots the specs for my heads and alll he does is type them in and no problem they will be identical, but I don’t think Tim MPR does all the mods on the upper parts of the manifold, did you modify the bypass area on your manifold did you delete like stiegemeier shows in their website ?

I have the J2 Fab cooling mod on my KB Bigun intercooler.

* The J2 Fab new over size cross over tube ID is 20.5mm (cross sectional area = 330mm^2) vs. stock cross over tube ID is 14mm (154mm^2) so the J2 Fab is MORE THAN DOUBLE.

It took me quite sometime to figure out HOW to route the 1" ID hose under my KB 3.6 S/C belt with a 3.75" pulley and STILL have the 13/14 IC pump at stock location. The result is I got 8mm of clearance between the supercharger belt (with 3.75" pulley) and the accessory belt (A/C, alternator belt). I am very confident this set up with work. The cost of 3D printing aluminum parts for this custom IC mod project is NOT cheap. I am still waiting for the water inlet and outlet from the 3D printing shop. In addition to all these 3D print parts, the -16AN Earl's cap (for the IC water outlet) need to machine (shorten) by 2.5mm.

Below are some pictures of the custom design inlet & outlet 3D printed aluminum 1" water tubes that work with the J2 Fab cooling mod set-up. The big end of the 3D printed aluminum part is for 1" ID hose and the small end is for the 0.75" ID hose (IC coolant reservoir). The return fitting (with black Earl's fitting) has a built-in restrictor just the stock 13/14 IC hose.

The last picture is an all new custom design KB by-pass valve connector to be used on my KB 3.6 (also 3D print aluminum). This custom design will eliminates 3 out of 7 possible leak paths from the original KB design which has a total of 7 possible leak paths.

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manny231988

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Dang Poisonous correct me if I misunderstood so are you telling me with the J2 fab and KB there is no way to route the 1inch I’d hoses without rubbing? I’m gonna run the 4 inch pulley as I have a 10% percent lower. How much is it to go the route your going with the 3D printed stuff ?
 

Bearbo

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Poisonous West...biminilx...the talent and intelligence of the people around here. I am wanting to undertake the cooling mod but to do what Poisonous has done-a man has to know his limitations and mine was reached 37 posts ago.
 

RBB

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Dang Poisonous correct me if I misunderstood so are you telling me with the J2 fab and KB there is no way to route the 1inch I’d hoses without rubbing? I’m gonna run the 4 inch pulley as I have a 10% percent lower. How much is it to go the route your going with the 3D printed stuff ?
I’m running the J2Fab mod on a TVS and there’s very minimal clearance for the AN fittings and 1” hoses. A few mm....I even swapped out one of my accessory pulleys for a smaller one for just a little more clearance.
 

manny231988

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RBB can you post a pic of how close it is idk if the Kenne Bell has more or less clearance since it’s the 4.7 but would like to know before purchasing to see if I have to go a different route
 

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