Build Quality

[biminiLX]

Don't think ive ever seen a stock block 5.8 with a stock TVS make 1000whp. Not saying it hasn't happened... just saying ive never seen it. Link? Are you talking about adding nitrous or all boost? I would venture to say this would be a unicorn type of car, if it even exists, and it doesn't make much sense to argue a point with the exception. No way in hell id trust a trinity over 800 for long.. much less a thousand. Would rather have the iron block condor in that situation, but different topic I guess.

Speaking of exceptions... the RULE I would argue is far more in favor of the 15+ coyote motor belting out more HP easier and more efficiently than the trinity or condor. This is well documented and really not work arguing.

Also, stay away from the 11-14 coyotes.. their fragile rods give up the ghost around 700-750. The 15+ motors are the ones with the stout boss 302 rods.

First, I'll just say the earlier GT500s aren't in the same league as the '13-14, the Trinity is just a better car.
Second, when you talk big speed, it's really the 6R auto that makes the GT argument. When talking big power, you have to go into the motor anyway. My good friend races his deep 9s about to be 8s '11 GT and just split his built block. So as much as I love the Coyote and will build one for my updated Fox drag car, the block needs $3k in sleeving, so the aluminum GT500 blocks are definitely stronger. While the '15+ Coyote is definitely the cheapest way to go fast, after 850+rwhp you have to build the block (as in sleeve the block) where the 1000rwhp Trinity doesn't need the block touched.
Pointless argument, pick what YOU want to meet YOUR goals and deal with what it takes.

Last on the black, I feel your pain, but I just saw a $1500 vinyl wrap that was perfect for most cars, expect another $500-1000 for a show quality wrap. No permanet paint and protects your Factory paint.
-J

 

[gimmie11s]

Agree with most of that. If you are attacking a drag time, skip the gt500 and go to the GT. Faster for cheaper.... far and away.

Can anyone link me the 1000whp stock block stock tvs trinity car?

 

[biminiLX]

No but mines at 943rwhp and we have some tricks left.
Sorry, it's a Gen2R TVS in place of my ported/welded stock TVS.
Also, dyno numbers aren't my goal, I just want effortless 9s on 17-18" drag radials.
No cage going in this glass roof car.
-J

 

[gimmie11s]

I don't think such a car exists.

Yours is a bad bitch but a long way away from what the other guy claimed is achievable with stock hardware.

 

[1 Alibi 2]

If the OP thinks the build quality on the GT's is lacking, he should look @ the GT350's !!!

 

[jchristena]

It looks like a > rather than a -> , i was thinking the same thing. and would agree, GT500 over any 5.0 no matter the mods or the year.

Lol maybe so. Fixed it.

 

[Sinultros]

I don't think such a car exists.

Yours is a bad bitch but a long way away from what the other guy claimed is achievable with stock hardware.

I never claimed anything was done on the stock bottom end. But Weir Racing did have a car on their facebook page that put down over 1k rwhp with the OEM BPS ported TVS, and another one of their customers has a 2014 that put down just short with similar mods. Both cars have a built 5.8L. My point was power isn't where the 5.8L comes short.

 

[biminiLX]

I never claimed anything was done on the stock bottom end. But Weir Racing did have a car on their facebook page that put down over 1k rwhp with the OEM BPS ported TVS, and another one of their customers has a 2014 that put down just short with similar mods. Both cars have a built 5.8L. My point was power isn't where the 5.8L comes short.

Just to add to this, based on my experience and dyno data, the 2.3 TVS just can't keep up to the airflow requirements of a built cammed 5.8. Basically, my blower is about the best flowing TVS most of us can buy, and the boost falls off gradually after roughly 5k rpm.
The solution will be the TVS 2650 for guys like me that brown want to go big screw.
I'd love a link to the Weir racing beasts?
As I said earlier, I don't race dynos and Weir Racing puts in on track, so despite the dyno number, they back it up.
-J

 

[gimmie11s]

I cant wait for the 2650. Drives me nuts that there isn't more info out on it.

Other platforms already have 2650's available.

 

[stanger1]

Group,
OP here. Thanks for all the input. I do like my Shelby and definitely will be keeping.
It's just after a while, you start looking, just like being married, LOL.
And as someone mentioned, you do see a lot of Mustang GT running around, but here, maybe see 1-2 other Shelbys, even Car Show, you don't see but 1-2 and that is cool.

 

[MovingZen]

A basic 2017 GT is around $35K? Once you get done with the power adder and tires you'll be around what? $42K? So how much difference are we really talking about if you were to buy a 2013 or 2014 GT500? You can get into one for under $45k easily. A little more for a waaaay better looking car and most likely still some warranty left. I guess if cheaper is what you want, ignoring all the other upgrades in a GT500, have fun with your 2017.

 

[tomshep]

Getting a GT500 to go 145 mph is a tall order. Not saying it cant be done, because obviously it can, but the Coyote makes it easy.

Not sure if this is a general statement, but my 14 will do that quite easily. Mine is 100% stock powertrain and that is not problem

Tom

 

[biminiLX]

Not sure if this is a general statement, but my 14 will do that quite easily. Mine is 100% stock powertrain and that is not problem

Tom

Pretty sure he's saying 145mph trap, and that's a VERY stout number for current heavy street Mustangs. Still, mine trapped 137.8mph with just bolt ons, so my statements above still hold. Both platforms can do it, but you'll need to go into the motor either way.
It'll always be cheaper to make a track car from a GT just due to the cost of admission.
-J

 

[gimmie11s]

Pretty sure he's saying 145mph trap, and that's a VERY stout number for current heavy street Mustangs. Still, mine trapped 137.8mph with just bolt ons, so my statements above still hold. Both platforms can do it, but you'll need to go into the motor either way.
It'll always be cheaper to make a track car from a GT just due to the cost of admission.
-J

Exactly. If 145 mph is your goal and don't care about "Shelby" fan fare then a 15+ Gt is the way to do it.

Coyote Motor doesn't at all need to be built for 145 and if you decide to go that route for added peace of mind the cost is less than half of that of a trinity.

This is exactly the reason I purposely chose an iron block gt500 for my next build.

If I decide I go full retard a built iron 5.4 can be done for about $4k (short block).

Coyote is similar in cost.

 

[biminiLX]

Exactly. If 145 mph is your goal and don't care about "Shelby" fan fare then a 15+ Gt is the way to do it.

Coyote Motor doesn't at all need to be built for 145 and if you decide to go that route for added peace of mind the cost is less than half of that of a trinity.

This is exactly the reason I purposely chose an iron block gt500 for my next build.

If I decide I go full retard a built iron 5.4 can be done for about $4k (short block).

Coyote is similar in cost.

Hate to say it, and I hope I'm wrong, but I'm not sure that the iron block GT500s are as strong as you want to believe. I was told the iron blocks aren't what you want if building to 1000rwhp.
I'd double check their limit with JDM, MPS, L&M, MMR, etc. but usually a sleeved aluminum block is wanted at higher levels.
-J

 

[gimmie11s]

You don't Think I've already talked to a few of those you've listed?

Mmr is local to me.

I'll likely never get to 1k horsepower but if I did, it's nice to know it's cheap.

See below

http://www.modularmotorsportsracing...page=product_info&cPath=23_63&products_id=594



.

 

[biminiLX]

Good deal, it must be when you want over 1000rwhp.
Building power is easy anymore, but many guys don't realize you can have too much power in street cars. Yes I was looking in mirror
-J