if you really want to make 1000 i would look at the 33 spline Wave track and strange axles.
with C clip eliminators.
Edit never mind i see that you already ordered
with C clip eliminators.
Edit never mind i see that you already ordered
Broke something in the rear need advice on upgrading.
- Thread starter Benchracer
- Start date
Here's what I did after a few bent axles and broken diff's.
Moser M9 housing. 35 spline axles and D/locker with pro large pinion 3.73's. 5/8s wheel studs. BMR drag race sway bar. Koni D/adjustable coil over shocks. Many 1.4's a few 1.3's and side steps @ 5000/5500 RPM's and no breakage yet. It just works and never complains. Even with BIG Fat tires.:thumbsup:
Moser M9 housing. 35 spline axles and D/locker with pro large pinion 3.73's. 5/8s wheel studs. BMR drag race sway bar. Koni D/adjustable coil over shocks. Many 1.4's a few 1.3's and side steps @ 5000/5500 RPM's and no breakage yet. It just works and never complains. Even with BIG Fat tires.:thumbsup:
Eric, send me a link to all the parts on your website.
Here's what I did after a few bent axles and broken diff's.
Moser M9 housing. 35 spline axles and D/locker with pro large pinion 3.73's. 5/8s wheel studs. BMR drag race sway bar. Koni D/adjustable coil over shocks. Many 1.4's a few 1.3's and side steps @ 5000/5500 RPM's and no breakage yet. It just works and never complains. Even with BIG Fat tires.:thumbsup:
Very nice. Thats what kind of 60's Im hoping for. How do ypu have your doubla adjustables set?
I don't think Eric/JPC has the Wave Trac up on the web store site, but I know they can get them. We have been talking about putting that setup in my Turbo Boss since I don't want to go to a spool but the Torsen seems to be holding so far. The 33 spline Wave Trac isn't cheap though, I think the 33 spline version retails for around $1k-$1100.
When my Boss Torsen goes, this is what I will be upgrading too.
The Lethal package is nice, especially with the 9" ends, but I think it's still only 31 spline axles and I'm not sure how strong that Traction Lok is, as I know it's a much cheaper differential than a Locker, Torsen and obviously Wave Trac.
I see. Thats probably why I couldnt find it on their site.
We've been 9.30's with that exact setup on our full weight 2013 GT500 running MT slicks. It works pretty good and drives like stock on the street. Remember that we just don't send the trakloc by itself. We also send a diff rebuild kit with carbon clutch packs. You use the additional carbon discs to pack the trakloc with and that's what gives it the extra strength to hold up to the abuse we show our cars.
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We've been 9.30's with that exact setup on our full weight 2013 GT500 running MT slicks. It works pretty good and drives like stock on the street. Remember that we just don't send the trakloc by itself. We also send a diff rebuild kit with carbon clutch packs. You use the additional carbon discs to pack the trakloc with and that's what gives it the extra strength to hold up to the abuse we show our cars.
Any other things neccesary that you would recommend doing to the rear end to strengthen it? Weld the tubes?
Here's what I did after a few bent axles and broken diff's.
Moser M9 housing. 35 spline axles and D/locker with pro large pinion 3.73's. 5/8s wheel studs. BMR drag race sway bar. Koni D/adjustable coil over shocks. Many 1.4's a few 1.3's and side steps @ 5000/5500 RPM's and no breakage yet. It just works and never complains. Even with BIG Fat tires.:thumbsup:
Do you daily drive on that?
Here's what I did after a few bent axles and broken diff's.
Moser M9 housing. 35 spline axles and D/locker with pro large pinion 3.73's. 5/8s wheel studs. BMR drag race sway bar. Koni D/adjustable coil over shocks. Many 1.4's a few 1.3's and side steps @ 5000/5500 RPM's and no breakage yet. It just works and never complains. Even with BIG Fat tires.:thumbsup:
all this nice stuff and still running the stock 2 piece drive shaft? I'm still running the stock rear end w/ 3.73's, I have reinforced the rearend with the ford rearend girdle and a che rear end brace w/ a 1 piece DS. I am running 28x10.5S 15's on MT ET drags, no broken parts yet w/ consistant 5k+ clutch drops.
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Just an FYI, this broke doing a 5100rpm launch with a 200 shot and 28x10.5 tires. Dont try this at home. lol. I have been doing 6k+rpm launches for 3 years now(close to 200 launches) and around 75 of those launches were at 5500 with a 150 shot. This rear end has held up pretty good.
Not really. Just made one pass. It spun at the hit so I dropped the 2 step to 5100rpms on the next attempt and thats when it broke.
No its a 4 inch CJ driveshaft. I run radials also and they are harder on parts with a man trans. But if you can hook them up, you'll get very low 60 foot times. Slicks are easier on parts because they spin and don't dead hook like radials. That pic was while it was being built, so it still had a stock two piece DS hanging. I drive it on the street, but it takes some getting use to. Going around turns is a learning experience, but once you get it down its not bad at all. I would say the weakest link is axle size. Get at least 33 spline axles, but I would get 35's for any serious drag racing to be on the safe side.
People with manual trans do not run slicks because they spin. They completely dead hook but have a softer side wall to flex more then a radial does.
Life is too short to argue, you need to research this more or call one of the tire companies and ask them. Have a nice day.
Are you joking?
A radial tire has a much stiffer sidewall then a bias ply slick tire. By running drag radials you have alot greater chance of breaking something on a manual trans car with high RPM launchs.
I dont need to call a tire company to talk to someone about basic ****ing knowledge.
A radial tire has a much stiffer sidewall then a bias ply slick tire. By running drag radials you have alot greater chance of breaking something on a manual trans car with high RPM launchs.
I dont need to call a tire company to talk to someone about basic ****ing knowledge.
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:lol1: retardation.
So why do NHRA too fuel dragsters use slicks and not radials of slicks just spin?
You obviously need to go back and do more research yourself.
Drag radials are steel belted radials. There is VERY little flex in the sidewalls because of the reinforcement from the steel belts.
A slick on a manual car is the only route to go to avoid grenading your drivetrain. The sidewall flex is far superior to the DR which allows for less stress to be places on the drive components because it's absorbed into the sidewall of the tire.
If you try and argue that.....then I'm sorry for you.
So why do NHRA too fuel dragsters use slicks and not radials of slicks just spin?
You obviously need to go back and do more research yourself.
Drag radials are steel belted radials. There is VERY little flex in the sidewalls because of the reinforcement from the steel belts.
A slick on a manual car is the only route to go to avoid grenading your drivetrain. The sidewall flex is far superior to the DR which allows for less stress to be places on the drive components because it's absorbed into the sidewall of the tire.
If you try and argue that.....then I'm sorry for you.
Can you elaborate? Would you say its streetable?
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