This is a stupid question with I am sure an easy answer. How the hell do you change the rear Pads? I am losing it trying to get the pads in. Is there a special tool I need or what? flame suit on :burn:
Brake Pad Install...need help
- Thread starter CobraKid04
- Start date
Special tool required to retract the rear piston by screwing it back into the caliper in a clockwise direction.
Stay tuned for a video I have coming out real soon!
:thumbsup::coolman::beer:
A C clamp right?
Just go to Advanced Auto or Auto Zone. They loan out these tools (brake caliper piston tool). Just use the tool to screw down the piston and you are good to go. Its very simple once you have the tool. (AUTOZONE part number 27111)
I also have the tool kit now. However, before I bought it, I used the tips on a pair of needle-nose pliars to turn the piston.
Also, the instructions I've read say to make sure the indentations on the piston end up in the 6:00 position... :beer:
Also, the instructions I've read say to make sure the indentations on the piston end up in the 6:00 position... :beer:
don't take the ebrake part off...
Just go to Advanced Auto or Auto Zone. They loan out these tools (brake caliper piston tool). Just use the tool to screw down the piston and you are good to go. Its very simple once you have the tool. (AUTOZONE part number 27111)
I got this,worth its weight in gold!
You can use a C Clamp...no problems there...or even a large set of channel locks. Whatever you use, make sure you have something like a block of wood to compress against the piston. Grabbing the corner of the piston with a C-clamp is a big no-no. You want to compress the piston evenly. Also, if you have already disassembled both sides, make sure you but another block of wood or something in the 2nd caliper while compressing the original. You don't want to cause any damage to the 2nd caliper. When doing brakes...the rule of thumb is do 1 side first, then move to the other side. You are less prone to mistakes and can always look at the other side if you have questions.
No! The piston MUST BE ROTATED CLOCKWISE AS IT'S BEING PRESSED BACK INTO THE CALIPER. :read: Hence, the special tool.
Save the C-clamp for the front pistons! :-D
You can get the tool at Advance AUTO Parts for like $10. Its a universal tool. What I do is tap the rear caliper piston with a small hammer to "Break" it lose. Then turn it with the tool. Make sure the cuts in the piston are 12 and 6 position.
Ronnie
MMP
Ronnie
MMP
Ok I will get it tonight. I bled the brake system as well. I now have a new problem when I bled the system I forgot to disconnect the battery (yes i know very stupid). Well I went to start (Still no back brakes) the car so a friend could hear the exhaust and it wouldn’t start. It made a loud clicking sound like the starter wasn’t engaging the flywheel. Is it just because the computer is reading that I don’t have brakes? The check engine light and the abs was on. My guages and cd deck were going nuts. I disconected my battery for a while and put it back, but still no luck. I am freaking out. Help me!!!
I just got the rear brake tool from autozone and asked him what he thought the problem was. He said my battery is going dead. Does this make sence?
hmmm...check a fuse...not sure? subscribing
I think it’s the battery my lights are dim and my wipers go really slow. I'm ganna try to jump it tom. Hopefully it will start that’s all I want for xmass.haha I was jumping to conclusions as I am a novice with the wrench.
yep, your battery is low.
After you jumpstart, you should drive for 15 minutes or so to fully charge it
Our charging system has been known to be problematic for many people, so it's important to avoid straining either the battery or alternator, as either one can wipe out the other.
If you want to be proactive, you should have them both load-tested at an auto shop.
.
After you jumpstart, you should drive for 15 minutes or so to fully charge it
Our charging system has been known to be problematic for many people, so it's important to avoid straining either the battery or alternator, as either one can wipe out the other.
If you want to be proactive, you should have them both load-tested at an auto shop.
.
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^I was freaking out earlier like no other. I'm just glad its this simple. Thanks everyone for the replies. I'm slowly learning!!!
Ya my friend did that for several hours, borrowed my c clap and all, called me up and asked for help. Took a look and had a good laugh. Asked him how long he was trying to push that sucker in. Turned it with a screw driver and you could only imagine the look on his face. :lol1:
I used this to keep the piston goin inwards
http://f5c.yahoofs.com/shopping/mci...00hei150wid150op_sharpen1110?rm_____DoOsyFAfS
and this for turn the piston.. been doin it for years. works everytime!
http://www.curbly.com/uploads/photos/0000/0001/0908/channel_lock_large.jpg
But, if you are a tool scavenger.. yes, go buy the proper tool!
http://f5c.yahoofs.com/shopping/mci...00hei150wid150op_sharpen1110?rm_____DoOsyFAfS
and this for turn the piston.. been doin it for years. works everytime!
http://www.curbly.com/uploads/photos/0000/0001/0908/channel_lock_large.jpg
But, if you are a tool scavenger.. yes, go buy the proper tool!
Actually, I've had good success with needle nose plyers with screw in pistons. Bought the tool for the Cobra though.
Rear brakes on my wife's Mini Cooper require rotation AND compression simulataneously. That was fun.........
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