Boost controller for my eaton...

[earico]

SafeInjection™ Eaton Bypass Solenoid

Solenoid such that boost is reduced by opening the internal bypass valve in Eaton superchargers.

Part Number: 30400

Retail price: $60.00

http://www.americanmuscle.com/snowperformance-scbypass-solenoid.html

It's more or less to reduce boost when the meth is out for a fail safe. It opens the bypass valve to allow the recirculation of intake air within the case instead of making boost. No different than it does at idle.

Not sure why the controller the OP posted wouldn't work. We need the install instructions. The OEM bypass closes under boost. If you control the amount of boost making it to the valve via a solenoid then why wouldn't it control boost? It may be possible to wire the controller directly into the OEM boost bypass solenoid and then just disable the solenoid in the tune so you don't trigger the check engine light.

Honestly I think it's better than carrying around different size pullies and belts in your trunk.

I asked the same question here and everyone said it was stupid. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/839659-supercharger-boost-controller.html Personally I think some of you guys need to think outside the box once in awhile. If we all just did the same shit everyone else was doing we would never have new products....Look at the ProEfi Standalone as an example.

Maybe the OP has plenty of other stupid threads but IMO this one is at least educational.

 

[oem]

You sound more stupid than me.....

Eaton with a BOV, getting it done...

[youtube_browser]e87sgGcK8Tc[/youtube_browser]

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

SafeInjection™ Eaton Bypass Solenoid

Solenoid such that boost is reduced by opening the internal bypass valve in Eaton superchargers.

Part Number: 30400

Retail price: $60.00

Snow Performance Mustang S/C Bypass Valve Solenoid 30300 - Free Shipping!

It's more or less to reduce boost when the meth is out for a fail safe. It opens the bypass valve to allow the recirculation of intake air within the case instead of making boost. No different than it does at idle.

Not sure why the controller the OP posted wouldn't work. We need the install instructions. The OEM bypass closes under boost. If you control the amount of boost making it to the valve via a solenoid then why wouldn't it control boost? It may be possible to wire the controller directly into the OEM boost bypass solenoid and then just disable the solenoid in the tune so you don't trigger the check engine light.

Honestly I think it's better than carrying around different size pullies and belts in your trunk.

I asked the same question here and everyone said it was stupid. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/839659-supercharger-boost-controller.html Personally I think some of you guys need to think outside the box once in awhile. If we all just did the same shit everyone else was doing we would never have new products....Look at the ProEfi Standalone as an example.

Maybe the OP has plenty of other stupid threads but IMO this one is at least educational.

I'm pretty sure it won't work because it's releasing metered air already.. I could be wrong though..

 

[whitedevil95]

I'm pretty sure it won't work because it's releasing metered air already.. I could be wrong though..

Good point. Would probably cause a nasty rich condition since the comp thinks that air is entering the cylinders.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

^^ Exactly.

 

[earico]

I'm pretty sure it won't work because it's releasing metered air already.. I could be wrong though..

That air that is recirculating in the case has been metered and will not be released to open atmosphere. It's the same as at idle when the bypass valve is open. Having the bypass open under boost will limit max boost and keep all the metered air in the intake stream.

Boost pressure to the bypass valve to closes it. If you have a solenoid in line with the boost bypass actuator vacuum line all you do is shut off the air supply and it will keep the bypass open. This will reduce boost. Now to control boost at different levels you need to be able to send small amounts of air to the bypass actuator. That way it will open slightly instead of being fully closed or fully open. So like a boost controller on a turbo you send some air and vent the rest. Well in our case you would just vent the excess back to the intake tube post MAF (since it was metered air). Similar to this figure but instead of venting to atmosphere you vent back to the intake tube. Hell a 3 way manual boost controller with bleed port would work.

Good point. Would probably cause a nasty rich condition since the comp thinks that air is entering the cylinders.

It doesn't have a problem with it at idle. Once the air starts to recirculate in the case the amount of air entering the inlet will decrease and MAF counts will decrease accordingly.

 

[98 Saleen Cobra]

I see what you're saying.. I guess that'll work in theory.. But with a pulley swap taking a mear 5 mins lol, why bother?? If something messes up now all of a sudden on pump gas you just pushed 2x psi through the motor lol..

BUT it should work like you said.. that makes sense.

 

[earico]

I see what you're saying.. I guess that'll work in theory.. But with a pulley swap taking a mear 5 mins lol, why bother?? If something messes up now all of a sudden on pump gas you just pushed 2x psi through the motor lol..

BUT it should work like you said.. that makes sense.

When I was looking into it I wanted to be able to up boost with a flick of a switch instead of carrying my 1/2" breaker bar, spare pulley and spare belt in my trunk. So I go fill up with 100 octane at the pump near my house and I up the boost on the controller and I flip the tune on my 4 bank chip. Very similar to running different boost levels on different octanes on a turbo car.

You pop a boost/wastegate line on a turbo car you overboost. No different with this setup we are talking about. You best make sure you use good line and check it often for cracks/leaks.

 

[whitedevil95]

When I was looking into it I wanted to be able to up boost with a flick of a switch instead of carrying my 1/2" breaker bar, spare pulley and spare belt in my trunk. So I go fill up with 100 octane at the pump near my house and I up the boost on the controller and I flip the tune on my 4 bank chip. Very similar to running different boost levels on different octanes on a turbo car.

You pop a boost/wastegate line on a turbo car you overboost. No different with this setup we are talking about. You best make sure you use good line and check it often for cracks/leaks.

I feel like if you want to do that then go centri or turbo.

 

[earico]

I feel like if you want to do that then go centri or turbo.

I'm about to. :beer:

 

[earico]

This is all you would need...

TURBO BLEED VALVE TURBO BOOST CONTROLLER NEW | eBay

 

[racebronco2]

Vacuum is what opens the valve, under wot there is no vaccum therefor the valve stays closed just like when the car isn't running. Boost has nothing to do with opening or closing of the valve. I too have thought about limiting the boost by some sort of vacuum source. I was mostly thinking about limiting the boost on the launch.

 

[04SolidSnake]

Part of the problem with using the bypass as boost control, is that it will create turbulence in the blower case, and cause higher than otherwise IAT2 as well.

It'd work well as a safe guard boost dump, since in an emergency I would be more worried about not exploding something rather than IAT2s.

 

[racebronco2]

Part of the problem with using the bypass as boost control, is that it will create turbulence in the blower case, and cause higher than otherwise IAT2 as well.

How will it create more turbulence? The air entering the blower will either be going into the case/rotors or bypassing the intercooler. The problem i see is that the bypassed air will not be at the same temp as the air going thru the intercooler. Since the bypass is closer to the rear of the engine the rear cylinders will have a air mixture of cooler intake air and the intercooled air from the blower.

 

[earico]

Vacuum is what opens the valve, under wot there is no vaccum therefor the valve stays closed just like when the car isn't running. Boost has nothing to do with opening or closing of the valve. I too have thought about limiting the boost by some sort of vacuum source. I was mostly thinking about limiting the boost on the launch.

Ah I see. You are correct.

Correct me if I'm wrong. So the OEM setup with the Boost Bypass Solenoid uses vacuum to open the valve. (The OEM setup is not hooked to a boost reference at all.) Then at WOT the solenoid cuts off the vacuum source to allow the valve to close and the blower to make boost. So if we wired in a controller for the Boost Bypass Solenoid we could control boost correct? Like this one: Easy Performance - Easy Performance Eaton Boost Controller #EP-BOOSTCNTRL-STG1

We could also do the same thing with a manual valve and vacuum lines and deleting the Boost Bypass Solenoid. The only problem I see is that if we turned the manual valve to limit the vacuum supply going to the boost bypass it will give us the lower boost level we want but it will possibly prevent the valve from fully opening at idle too. Hmm...

BTW that controller I linked above was made by the same people that make the controller posted by the OP. At the bottom of the page in my link above there is another link but it's a dead end....to the same manufacturer's website. I have a hunch that the controller I just posted was replaced by the controller the OP posted. I can't find install instructions but I would bet it just wires into the Boost Bypass Solenoid to control boost.

 

[racebronco2]

Ah I see. You are correct.

Correct me if I'm wrong. So the OEM setup with the Boost Bypass Solenoid uses vacuum to open the valve. (The OEM setup is not hooked to a boost reference at all.) Then at WOT the solenoid cuts off the vacuum source to allow the valve to close and the blower to make boost. So if we wired in a controller for the Boost Bypass Solenoid we could control boost correct? Like this one: Easy Performance - Easy Performance Eaton Boost Controller #EP-BOOSTCNTRL-STG1

We could also do the same thing with a manual valve and vacuum lines and deleting the Boost Bypass Solenoid. The only problem I see is that if we turned the manual valve to limit the vacuum supply going to the boost bypass it will give us the lower boost level we want but it will possibly prevent the valve from fully opening at idle too. Hmm...

BTW that controller I linked above was made by the same people that make the controller posted by the OP. At the bottom of the page in my link above there is another link but it's a dead end....to the same manufacturer's website. I have a hunch that the controller I just posted was replaced by the controller the OP posted. I can't find install instructions but I would bet it just wires into the Boost Bypass Solenoid to control boost.

The solenoid does not cut off vacuum, once at wot there is no vaccuum therefor the valve closes. It seems like the boost controller would work but not sure how it hooks up. It must hook up somehow to the boost bypass solenoid, the factory uses it to dump all the boost when the blower or engine temps rise to a predetermined temp.

Why would you want to control boos?

If we did use the boost controller to limit boost at wot we would need to dial it up of down depending on our needs. It would need to have some sort of vacuum source.

 

[earico]

The solenoid does not cut off vacuum, once at wot there is no vaccuum therefor the valve closes. It seems like the boost controller would work but not sure how it hooks up. It must hook up somehow to the boost bypass solenoid, the factory uses it to dump all the boost when the blower or engine temps rise to a predetermined temp.

Why would you want to control boos?

If we did use the boost controller to limit boost at wot we would need to dial it up of down depending on our needs. It would need to have some sort of vacuum source.

I would like to control boost in 1st & 2nd gear to prevent blowing the tires. I don't care how good people claim they are at pedaling the car...if you are pedaling and your opponent isn't then you are falling behind.

www.accutach.com/Documents/VacuumHarnessSchematicR2.pdf

If I read that correct the source of vacuum for the boost bypass solenoid comes from the inlet on the blower....not the boost port at the bottom of the blower. On the diagram it's called the upper manifold but its actually on the top rear of the blower. If this is the case then the inlet on the blower is in a constant state of vacuum. Correct?

 

[racebronco2]

When the tb blades are closed there is vacuum, when the throttle blades begins to open the vacuum goes down, at wot there is no vacuum.

What i did on my car so i wouldn't blow the tires off is i have a switch on my shifter. The switch cuts power to two cylinders or takes away about 100hp. It's kind of a launch control. I hooked it up so the cylinders that are affected are 180* away from each other. Once under way i just activate them.

 

[earico]

When the tb blades are closed there is vacuum, when the throttle blades begins to open the vacuum goes down, at wot there is no vacuum.

What i did on my car so i wouldn't blow the tires off is i have a switch on my shifter. The switch cuts power to two cylinders or takes away about 100hp. It's kind of a launch control. I hooked it up so the cylinders that are affected are 180* away from each other. Once under way i just activate them.

I think your description of vacuum is correct if measured from the lower manifold.

However, at WOT the air entering the supercharger inlet will create vacuum on all the smaller ports that are hooked to the supercharger inlet. The large volume of air traveling thru the inlet will create a state of vacuum on the smaller ports that are attached to it as that large volume of air passes by. Correct? I realize it won't be the 20 inHg we see at idle but vacuum will be present. But I do not know how much it is and if it is enough to open the bypass valve. This is where the boost bypass solenoid gets its vacuum source. If you search you will see that the solenoid is to blame for boost drop off because it doesn't allow the bypass to completely close at WOT. Well to do so it would have to have a source of vacuum at WOT. I think that is why it is hooked to the supercharger inlet from the factory.

Read the first 2 paragraphs of this: http://www.5ccreations.com/pcvart.htm It is very similar to my PCV setup and it does work. http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/engine-tuning-214/851420-my-pcv-catch-can-setup.html

As you can see from the picture below of my inlet the OEM PCV port is the large one cut on the slant. The nearest and smaller one is the upper manifold port that is in the vacuum diagram pdf posted earlier. The smaller port has a slight slant to it as well.

 

[racebronco2]

It's not nearly enough vacuum to close the bypass valve. If it could partially close the bypass how would you control it between partial and opening all the way.