Boost Bypass install instructions (with pics).
- Thread starter 03SoCalCobra
- Start date
From what I saw RPM outlet tells you to just switch the two vacume lines one from the actuator and one from the solenoid. Is this correct?
This is EXACTLY correct. I did it this morning myself. No parts required. I don't really understand their explanation of how it works. However, I've given it a try.
I tried it and I didn't see anything worth the risk you can just swap vac hoses to bypass the valve to I'm still learning what all those electricial controlled selionds are on the side of the SC but you swap vac line fron the dump valve to that dome looking piece behind theSC but I didn't see any big change so I put it back and its only good at full throttle and where except a drag strip are you going to hold full throttle any way. By the way for the question where to get the parts NAPA is still one of the best Auto store they sell all of those vacum line supplies you might have to go to the counter and they keep a little plastic box of assorted Ts etc. I know I was Driving a 300zx twin turbo and talk about a vacum line night mare.
Does anybody no or have site or something that breaks down the parts like a shop manual or are theses car still to new?:rockon:
Does anybody no or have site or something that breaks down the parts like a shop manual or are theses car still to new?:rockon:
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I just did the boost by-pass, the one from RPMoutlet. OK, I' was expecting nothing considering my stock pully and motor set up, but I'm fairly suprised. Both my friend and I noticed alot more pick up, and my boost guage is pegging higher then I noticed in the past. I don't know why this is, but I'll take it. I'm at a mile high, so perhaps the WOT boost is now amking up for some of the lost PSI. Either way, there is a noticable difference I did not expect.
In the cobra all you have to do is swap vac. lines from your actuator solenoid and your boost actuator. Nothing electrical is done this way and shouldn't show a problem except maybe a numbered code that would go away if you put the lines back. Thats all I did with the same results and easy to correct before I take it in for war.work.
I did the Vac. line swap on my 2004 and you now canhear the SC at lower rpms. I think its already been spoke of but unpluging the seloined will set of a silent trouble in the computer but not give you a light. the best way is the vac. line swap plus this mod doesn't come into play until full throttle it keeps your boost at full when the throttle is wide open before the bypass you would only get full boost for a short burst t full throttle then the boost would drop back down to about 8psi but with the bypass my boost will stay at 10 psi until I backed off. One more thing that will cause you boost loss at full throttle is the traction control will pull your boost down. I allways turn mine off. The reason for the vac.bypass is to keep the gas guzzler tax down with out it it would be abot
$1500.00 instead of $1000.00. there are good pictures on fr03cobra's post and doing it with the vac. lines ill not cause a trouble code in the ECU because as I said before unplugging the selinoid wil cause a silent trouble. One warning be real careful with the rubber boot on the line going to the boost actuator there is a weak spot in the middle of it and will break into.
$1500.00 instead of $1000.00. there are good pictures on fr03cobra's post and doing it with the vac. lines ill not cause a trouble code in the ECU because as I said before unplugging the selinoid wil cause a silent trouble. One warning be real careful with the rubber boot on the line going to the boost actuator there is a weak spot in the middle of it and will break into.
after doing this mod, my car in 1st doesnt peg as high, but feels stronger on the upshifts?
is it suppose to be at 10
marc
is it suppose to be at 10
marc
Now your traction control will drop your boost to so shut off the traction control off . All the bypass is for is at full throttle the boost stays full boost with out the bypass you'll notice at full throttle your boost will loose boost . When I have the bypas done by boost gauge stays pegged but with the with out the by pass my boost drops back at a point to about 9psi and the traction control will do the same thing. Why Ford has a boost bypass to start with is to keep the gas quzzler taxes down with out it you and me would of paid another $500.00 or more gas guzzler taxes they were high enough. I'm not sure if thats why the traction control does the samething. I get a little more benfit I can hear my SC more at low rpms and I love that I love that SC sound it could be louder to me and I do think I get a little earlier boost with it done. Unpluging sends a silent trouble code and it dosen't go away and the tech will see it. Its just as easy to pull two vac. lines and swap them around how hard is that and you can put it back normal in 30 secounds. It want hurt anything dam people are putting smaller pulleys on which make the SC spin faster and your worried about a little boost pressure. I love seeing my boost gauge pegged and it stays that way until I lift my foot then I know I'm getting all she will give. Some say it make them burn more gas. I could give a crap but I don't know why but my 2004 Cobra gets alot better milage then the 2003 with the bypass or with out.
randol
New Member
i can not see pic
send me the pics on the bypass valve for the 03 cobra please
if you could e-mail me please at [email protected] asp. i brought
a bypass kit from jdm and they sent me the wrong instruction
send me the pics on the bypass valve for the 03 cobra please
if you could e-mail me please at [email protected] asp. i brought
a bypass kit from jdm and they sent me the wrong instruction
saw a few on Ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...tem=2472941494&category=50449&sspagename=WDVW
Not sure what's up with $2 S&H though. Should be one stamp.
Tried the RPM Outlet swap hoses on mine today. It doesn't seem any faster except for the fact that it sure seems alot more responsive! The boost is the same as it used to be but the throttle response now seems instantaneous where before it was more gradual. It also seems better at part throttle and lower rpms.
Okay after reading about this and other posts that say that high boost could be bad on the pistons. Couldn't a program be written to "for ex and only with a pulley" on a steet tune use the boost bypass at like 8 or 9 psi and the if you switched tunes to say a race tune it take away the boost bypass. Wouln't you get the best of both worlds? You go daily driving with a very safe boost level and then switch over when you race. Maybe save some gas. I know if i didn't get into the throttle all that much i wouldn't get into boost too much either, but sometimes its just too much fun. 
I've read that this mod won't work without a change to a smaller pulley
Guys...I think you're playing with fire here. There are conditions where Ford felt it was necessary to dump boost. However, if you feel you HAVE to do this mod, then it seems to me that a simple switch wired in series with the solenoid would be the way to go. Leave it operating as designed until you need to disable it (i.e. an LS1 at your door!) Then, simple flip the switch from the comfort of your seat and kill the power to the solenoid (or apply it, whatever the case may be). It will still set a soft code, but at least the system will operate as designed all other times. It seems to me that one change that will occur with this mod is boost at cruise speeds. Boost is dumped when you're just toodling down the highway...which is good. If you disable the boost dump, there will be some sort of boost there and mileage (and wear and tear) will suffer. Therefore, unless you could keep the system operating except for the rare few times you have to have it disabled, you risk trouble. A simple electrical switch fixes this. (IMHO) However, I have not researched the wiring circuits, so I'm not positive this is practical...but it sure seems it would.
To clear soft codes, use a scan tool (a Predator should do it)...or....disconnect the battery for a few minutes...or it will clear itself after several drive cycles if the problem doesn't re-manifest itself during that time.
By the way, if the electrical switch is a possibility, then it may also be possibe to tap into the circuit somewhere in the interior of the vehicle and thus will show no evidence of tampering under the hood!
To clear soft codes, use a scan tool (a Predator should do it)...or....disconnect the battery for a few minutes...or it will clear itself after several drive cycles if the problem doesn't re-manifest itself during that time.
By the way, if the electrical switch is a possibility, then it may also be possibe to tap into the circuit somewhere in the interior of the vehicle and thus will show no evidence of tampering under the hood!
Ok guys, I've been running the RPMOutlet mod for 28,000 miles without issue and the car has been in the shop twice for unrelated issues with no comments from the Dealer. I've noticed better low end and higher registered boost levels. Prior to the mod my gauge read 8.5 PSI or so at WOT and now pegs the gauge at 10 PSI from 4KRPM to the limiter.
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