Boost Bypass install instructions (with pics).

03SoCalCobra

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I recently hooked up with one of the local Lightning guys who showed me how to do the boost-bypass mod. Below are the notes and pics for the install. Total cost: $2.16. Total time: 5 minutes. Once again, this is written for the non-mechanic- the mod is unbelievably simple.

(ps: ignore the spelling mistakes in the first few slides :) )

1. Standing on the drivers side looking at the blower, you'll see the following. Overview: Basically, you'll cut the single red vacuum hose that runs to the bottom of the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor and insert a "T", then take hose that runs from the top of the Boost Dump Valve to the bottom of the Boost Bypass Solenoid, disconnect it from the bottom of the Boost Bypass Solenoid and re-plug it into the "T" in the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor vacuum line, and plug the now-open spot in the bottom of the Boost Dump Solenoid.

bypass1.jpg


2. Here is the short hose you disconnect from the top of the Boost Dump Valve and bottom of the Boost Dump Solenoid. You have to pull HARD to get the hard plastic hose out of the bottom of rubber boot on the bottom of the solenoid. You can remove the whole 2-hose rubber boot off the bottom of the solenoid to make it easier (Optional- a screw is shown on the top of the hose; instead of remove the whole hose to use later, you can plug the hose as seen here and use a seperate piece of hose in step #6).

bypass3.jpg


3. Once the hose is popped out, you need to plug the hole with something. I used a black screw; a golf tee works as well. Here are 2 pics showing the plugged 2-hose rubber boot on the bottom of Boost Bypass Solenoid with the screw inserted.

bypass4.jpg

bypass6.jpg


4. Next, locate the red hose that runs to the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor and remove the wrap-around plastic sheath (NOTE- There are TWO separate red hoses, only cut the red hose to the Fuel Rail Sensor as shown below :nono: )

bypass7.jpg


5. Cut the vacuum hose and insert the rubber "T":

bypass8.jpg


6. Take the hose you removed in step #2 and attach one end to the top of the Boost Dump Valve and the other to the "T", reinstall the plastic sheath (cut to fit around the T). I used a long piece of plastic vacuum pipe to illustrate the routing.

bypass10.jpg


7. Clean up the install so as to not freak out the service manager during you next dealership oil change, and viola:

bypass11.jpg
 

A's Cobra

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it just doesn't get any better than this.... Thanks for the time it took to document and share this.
 

03blackvert

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Here's an interesting question. After reading some of the L stuff it appears boost dump may happen from a number of conditions, not all of which we want to prevent. Since the solonoid appears to be controlled by the PCM program, why don't the chip makers tweek the operation so with a smaller pully it doesn't dump, but if some the other "bad things" happen to your engine it will?
 

ArkangelX3

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This may be silly, but what is the benefit of this MOD? Ive read about the boost bypass mod, but not really sure what it does. How does this help us. Any help? Thanks
 

gchronis

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From what I understand it keeps the boost up when one of the conditions to drop the boost is met. The gain is that you never drop boost, so you don't loose half a second or whatever when you drive, for boost to build up again. The drawback is that if there is indeed a pretty good reason why you should drop the boost, then you may screw something up. From my standpoint, I wouldn't do it, but I'm very conservative and I never take big risks, and I always want to go the safest way in sacrifice of power, etc. etc. This is not always true for my women, but it sure is for this car! ;-)
 

03SoCalCobra

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You can unplug the solenoid, but this will set an error code in the PCM which may be undesirable if you take it in for service to a less-than-understanding dealer. The mod can be removed pretty quickly by substituting the T with a straight-through connector and plugging the Boost Bypass valve back into the Dump Solenoid.

I'm not sure what triggers the bypass other than excessive boost and i'm not sure what the limit is or if it can be reset with a chip- anyone know? I do know that i've run into it at the track with the L pulley.

A safer approach might be to install one of those 3-way valves you can get at a fish tank supply store and switch between vacuum from the Dump Solenoid for street use and non-dumpable vacuum from the Fuel Rail Sensor line for strip use.
 

T3 Cobra

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Originally posted by 03SoCalCobra
You can unplug the solenoid, but this will set an error code in the PCM which may be undesirable if you take it in for service to a less-than-understanding dealer. The mod can be removed pretty quickly by substituting the T with a straight-through connector and plugging the Boost Bypass valve back into the Dump Solenoid.

I'm not sure what triggers the bypass other than excessive boost and i'm not sure what the limit is or if it can be reset with a chip- anyone know? I do know that i've run into it at the track with the L pulley.

A safer approach might be to install one of those 3-way valves you can get at a fish tank supply store and switch between vacuum from the Dump Solenoid for street use and non-dumpable vacuum from the Fuel Rail Sensor line for strip use.

After reading this, I just unplugged mine and went for a drive and no check engine light? Could it store the error without causing the light to go on? I know where mine dumps boost so I will take it out later and push to see if it dumps!
 

f4sfed

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Unplugging the solenoid was suggested to me (and told that it would not trigger an error code). So far, no code....and honestly, I'm not expecting one.
 

totaled

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03SoCalCobra,

Thanks for the EXCELLENT intructions :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

On my L with the boost bypass unplugged it would set a diagnostic code that could be seen with a scan tool so I did the boost bypass mod and no more codes :-D
 

03SoCalCobra

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Not all error conditions set off the check-engine light. I was told by a very reputible speed shop that it does indeed set a "soft code" which can be read by a PCM scanner but which does not trigger the light. The good news is that anyone with a good PCM scanner can reset the code. I'm not sure what, if any, effect the soft code has on other PCM systems.
 

f4sfed

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Ah. Well...just goes to show: you don't know what you don't know. Thanks for the info!

Thanks for the great writeup as well, 03SoCalCobra! I guess I'll be using it now. :)
 

T3 Cobra

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Originally posted by 03SoCalCobra
Not all error conditions set off the check-engine light. I was told by a very reputible speed shop that it does indeed set a "soft code" which can be read by a PCM scanner but which does not trigger the light. The good news is that anyone with a good PCM scanner can reset the code. I'm not sure what, if any, effect the soft code has on other PCM systems.

If you plug it back in does the soft error code go away?
 

JB

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Originally posted by T3 Cobra
If you plug it back in does the soft error code go away?

nope, Ford soft codes are stored continuously in the computer's memory until they're cleared.
 

coleman

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i just got back from autozone to pick up some goodies and they don't have any "plastic sheath", Ts, or vacuum lines like we have/need for this mod :(
either that or the guy helping me didn't know ... jack

where did you pick up your supplies? ... don't say autozone!

oh well, it wasn't a total loss -- picked up the add-a-circuit stuff for my gauges :)
 

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