BMR relo bracket install question
- Thread starter Cashbum
- Start date
I kno it goes on the passenger side on the back side of the bracket on the top hole if that makes since im pretty sure that's where it goes
i believe its the short thick bolt if i remember right u need it there cause on the drive side the panhard bar is there
You may already be aware of this. If not it's worth checking in to. I didn't realize it at first but mine was off a bit after my install. It's all good now though.
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...926527-attn-all-relocation-bracket-users.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...926527-attn-all-relocation-bracket-users.html
I measured it when installed and they were even. But my steering wheel was crooked. with no brackets it's straight. I measured with my fingers with and without brackets. They both seemed fine. I only have 2600 miles on my car. I have two track passes with DR's and no brackets. Crappy 60' times. 2.2 and 2.1. Everything looks fine though. Welds look ok on the axle tubes. Stock welds that is. No twisting or anything
If the wheel is crooked with the brackets and not without, I'd tend to think something if off. That's just me though. My wheel never was crooked and everything looked fine but when I measured, my left rear tire was between 1/2-3/4" closer to the front of the car than the right. I loosened it all back up and shifted the right side bracket to the rear and the left to the front and tightened everything back down and it measures good now. There was very little play in the brackets and I didn't think it would be enough to make a difference but I was wrong.
Just measured mine, it "may" be off by 1/8. I say may because I could be tricking myself mis-measuring it. Definitely is close enough for gov work....
Absolutely...you'd never notice 1/8th of an inch. Hell more than that could probably be attributed to production variances.
My passenger side BMR relo bracket would NOT line up with the holes. All of the holes were just a minuscule bit too far towards the rear of the car. I bent the stem piece that bolts to the back side of the axle on the bracket just enough to get all my holes to line up. When I tightened the back side bolt up it drew the stem back straight.
I do have a bad problem pf my car randomly wanting to shoot off to the driver side when I get on the gas. For example I was in 3rd at like 20mph and went about 3/4 throttle and my car felt like the front driver side lifter and pulled that way. It doesn't always happen which is weird.
I'm getting the rest of my suspension on by the end of the week, if it still acts up I'll check all the axle measurements to see if I need to adjust my relo brackets.
Can anyone explain what *exactly* needs to be measured to see if the brackets are messing up your rear end alignment? I did the fender finger check and they are close if not the same. Cause measuring with fingers is such an accurate process, haha.
I assume since you are doing more suspension upgrades, your car will be on an alignment rack at some point in the near future?.....Once up, pay attention to the rear thrust angle. It will show you how square or off your rear is.
It sounds like your problem may be related this.
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Check thrust angle when getting the car aligned. Spec is .50 to -.50.
Very rarely do they reach outside of that....and usually they are in the .25 to -.25 range.
If it is going to be a while, check your wheelbase on each side. I like to see it, side to side, within 1/4" or so, preferably around 1/8" or less.
If the wheelbase is within 5/16" - this usually puts the thrust angle well within spec.
Very rarely do they reach outside of that....and usually they are in the .25 to -.25 range.
If it is going to be a while, check your wheelbase on each side. I like to see it, side to side, within 1/4" or so, preferably around 1/8" or less.
If the wheelbase is within 5/16" - this usually puts the thrust angle well within spec.
I'm having the exact same issue with my car after installing the lca relos and adjustable UCA. Any time I load up the suspension and accelerate, the car wants to shoot to the driver's side which requires a correction with the steering wheel. When I let off the throttle, I then have to correct and turn the wheel back to the driver's side.
I spent about 3 hours on the alignment rack last night trying to see what exactly was going on.
According to the alignment rack, the rear axle had .25* thrust angle, .20* toe(left rear) and -.30* toe (right rear) for a total toe of -.10.
I'm not exactly sure how the toe of a solid axle car could be off so much since in theory, they should be perfectly straight.
What should the thrust angle be? According to my printout, .25* is within factory spec
As far as "should" - I prefer "0".....but sometimes, that is difficult to achieve without adjustable LCA.
If the car is pulling to the driver side, it would be likely (if it is related to rear axle alignment) that the passenger side tire is further forward than the driver side. That is actually the opposite of what most people claim happens after installing aftermarket relocation brackets.
If the car is pulling to the driver side, it would be likely (if it is related to rear axle alignment) that the passenger side tire is further forward than the driver side. That is actually the opposite of what most people claim happens after installing aftermarket relocation brackets.
Keep in mind, we are all dealing the factory tolerance allowance.
.30* is an extremely small movement/amount.
Also keep in mind, these rear axle assemblies are not bullet-proof.
You have multiple components dictating the angle of your wheels/tires. A slight shift, change, bend, crack, distortion....and you will see imperfect #'s....even if it started from the show-room floor with a perfect measurement.
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