Chevy put the no-lift shift feature on the new turbo Cobalt SS and I think the ZR-1 so it definitely has its benefits. I think the point is to momentarily take load off of the drivetrain so you can safely shift while still on the throttle. This means the motor is still firing and spinning the turbo while you are shifting, keeping you in boost. Pretty sure it gives you a little pop at each shift when the spare fuel is ignited suddenly.
best two step for cobras on Turbo ??
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Chevy put the no-lift shift feature on the new turbo Cobalt SS and I think the ZR-1 so it definitely has its benefits. I think the point is to momentarily take load off of the drivetrain so you can safely shift while still on the throttle. This means the motor is still firing and spinning the turbo while you are shifting, keeping you in boost. Pretty sure it gives you a little pop at each shift when the spare fuel is ignited suddenly.
precisly. yeah a nice back fire everytime u shift definitelly impressing. and not on subject for those car with fly-by-wire the no lift shift its ideal since the ignition its off while the TB its open and gets stuck that way. on the ZR1, Z06 and GT500 its definitelly a big plus
Since I don't have a clutch anymore, I wonder if I couldn't wire that portion into my transbrake button to make it work..HMMM..
^ wondering the same. or is it even worth it with a auto/brake?
I usually roll into the staging lights at part throttle and hit the transbrake button as soon as I'm fully staged. With this feature I would be consistently at a set rpm every time I launched to keep my e.t's consistent as well..
ok cool. i think ill just skip this till i start racing it more than a couple times a year.
thanks
thanks
Yes you absolutely can. I wired mine up to my Tbrake button and it works flawless!
Are you using the WOT box or the MSD version?
Cool, thanks for the info..
The MSD DIS and Launch master use a method of cutting spark to individual cylinders evenly to limit rev and control combustion. This method is a much more controlled limiter and helps with violent backfire situations that are unhealthy on turbo bearings. The WOT BOX is more of ignition powers interrupt. Meaning it’s just shuts off the voltage to the engine ignition to limit rev. This method still works but is a much more unpredictable method. It looks to still work it’s just it doesn't cycle the individual cylinders spark cut evenly like MSD. This complete cut of ignition can lead to allot of fuel buildup at one time and allot of backfires.
The issue I face is that MSD DIS-4 is expensive and fails allot. This WOT BOX is sweet it’s just such an easy method to control rev. You would think MSD would have tried this method first. I suspect they didn't choose this ignition cut method due to extreme backfires that are unpredictable.
Man, I wish I could get 1 product that does it all....
The issue I face is that MSD DIS-4 is expensive and fails allot. This WOT BOX is sweet it’s just such an easy method to control rev. You would think MSD would have tried this method first. I suspect they didn't choose this ignition cut method due to extreme backfires that are unpredictable.
Man, I wish I could get 1 product that does it all....
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i tried my wot box today with the timing at -5 in the 1.3-1.7 load range. it made a little more boost but not a ton more. My tuner also noticed during a test drive that we were hitting that while driving and the car would die out. So i did not see the results others are.
whats ur setup and what RPM its ur WOT set at? also what u r experiencing while test driving its the lift shift setting. it takes a bit to get use to u just can push the throttle wide open unless u are actually at a race. or just set the shift lift off. read the instructions u have the set it to 0
i was not trying the no lift shift function. just the 2 step. it made about 10 psi with the 1.3-1.7 above 5000 rpm load range timing at -5. I was told that the car will not see that load range while driving so it would not affect drivability. I wasn't able to get the big boost out of it and while driving it must be seeing that load because above 5000 it would fall flat sometimes. My 2 step RPM is set about 5300 rpm.
Again not using the no lift shift.
Again not using the no lift shift.
Then your tuner is doing something wrong. I have setup 2 cars this exact way and both make the boost the controller is set at and it never ever cuts out from the timing being pulled out.
are you doing it exactly the way i mentioned? -5 degrees in that exact load range? thats what he did and we saw 10 psi or so. he did not stand on it for a real long time though.
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