Best supercharger for 03-04 cobra?

SNAKE CHARM

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ViciousJay said:
yea i agree with this... trust me 500 hp for a street DD car is plenty...
+2 on this, I want more but where am I going to use it, I think the port should be all I need for a DD.
 

ViciousJay

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SNAKE CHARM said:
+2 on this, I want more but where am I going to use it, I think the port should be all I need for a DD.

funny thing is if you think twinscrews have traction problems at he track just wait fo the street... ive seen quite a few twin screws go down to ported cars or to plain eaton cars cuz they cant hook ( too much power )
 

SNAKE CHARM

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ViciousJay said:
funny thing is if you think twinscrews have traction problems at he track just wait fo the street... ive seen quite a few twin screws go down to ported cars or to plain eaton cars cuz they cant hook ( too much power )
I agree, nothing worse than alot of power and no traction.
 

HASFANGS

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Tom's_03SVT said:
I have less than 500 miles on my ported blower. It just wasn't what I expected, so I bought a Whipple...:rockon:

This may be why you are asking, and certainly why I'm going to skip the ported deal...go right for the Whipple. I liked the "step change" from stock to pullied, looking for another step change just like it...JMO
 

younggun04

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I have a ported blower and it will do i guess but I thought the car would feel much faster.....then i drove my dads stock cobra and yeah it is way faster i think i'm just use to it now. but like everything you always want more. I guess it all depends what you want, 500hp good for some, others want 600hp... and so on and so on. If you want 500hp on the cheap get a ported blower, if you have money buring a hole in your pocket KB/whipple's are nice.
 

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Well i went the ported blower route... nothing against steig but the gains i saw were not worth my time. It pulls harder and whines like a mother but it was not up to what i though it would be.. the car kills lots of stuff on the street as it sits ... but at the same boost level 15 pounds im going to pick up 70 rwhp and get lower intake temps and increasing the life of my motor. Then on 18 pounds i should see 100 rwhp and then the good old 20- 22 pound race gas tune who knows... im going twin screw because the power potential is there to support anything i want to do later. with a 2.2 or 2.6h i can ramp it up to 25 pounds on a built motor and make 700+ all day and i think that would be the limit i would ever push... 480rwhp is nice 580 is going to be even better... i dont like to race on the street but if i put the peddle down it wont take me as long to wheel the comp and then i can shut down b4 things get dangerous .. plus a low 11 sec time slip at 3200 ft is kick ass.
 

hawaiiancobra

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get ur done , kenne bell for the win. i promise to poop in my pants if i can bring home a 9sec. time slip with the bell w/out nitro
 

casimer76522

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everyone will tell you what they think but there are many ways to get power you just need to decide what is best for you,,,,,,,,, eaton and spray,,,,,, KB/Whipple,,,,,,, i mean there are ups and down's to all, just remember cheapest isnt cheapest without a good reason!
 

04sleeper

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02stampede said:
Basically your looking at least a $3k price difference between a ported eaton and a twin screw. The eaton will be good for 515whp give or take. A twin screw typically will be 550-700+whp depending on your supporting mods. Just like bob said, is $3k worth a 75+ horsepower difference? Or do you want to take full advantage of a twin screw and make 750+ horsepower. me personally, If I wanted much over the eaton I would just go all out with a turbo setup. Too bad my wallet says no...
I will disagree with this and I'll tell you why.

"$3k price difference between a ported eaton and a twin screw."
Not really. To support a ported Eaton correctly and safely you will need bigger injectors and bigger MAF or MAFIA, and BAP. My car just with a 6# lower and stock upper on the Eaton was just about maxing these things out stock.
You are looking @ $900 with shipping to get a ported blower. You can get a Whipple shipped for $2900. $2900-$900=$2K not $3K.

You can't just say, "is $3k worth a 75+ horsepower difference?", because that would be a false statement. A Twin Screw is more efficient that an Heaton. Plain and simple.
 

IronTerp

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04sleeper said:
I will disagree with this and I'll tell you why.

"$3k price difference between a ported eaton and a twin screw."
Not really. To support a ported Eaton correctly and safely you will need bigger injectors and bigger MAF or MAFIA, and BAP. My car just with a 6# lower and stock upper on the Eaton was just about maxing these things out stock.
You are looking @ $900 with shipping to get a ported blower. You can get a Whipple shipped for $2900. $2900-$900=$2K not $3K.

You can't just say, "is $3k worth a 75+ horsepower difference?", because that would be a false statement. A Twin Screw is more efficient that an Heaton. Plain and simple.
Most ported Eaton setups DO NOT require 60 lbs injectors......All of the other supporting mods needed for a ported Eaton are also required by a twin screw application. The majority of twin screws also require a single blade throttle body, which the ported Eaton does not, (but I recommend!!!). A respectively boosted twin screw that's going to be "driven", requires an aftermarket clutch setup. A 500 RWHP ported Eaton setup does not, (but I'd recommend this too!!). I payed $417 for my Stage IV through a GP in Dec, 05 and now they're on sale for $495. The KB 2.6 series ($3,400) and 2.8 series ($3,800) are arguably the most efficeint twin screws available right now. And if you're going to race your twin screw at the track, better start saving for the roll bar......11.49 and lower in a coupe.

To do a twin screw correctly, (and why would we want to do it any other way?) is going to require $4,000+ more than a comparably prepared ported Eaton setup. I've been crunching these numbers for months now, believe me!!! But, I totally agree with the increased efficiency....like night and day.
 
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IronTerp

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Another quick point......I made 524/533 with my Stage IV, 2.90/4lb combo, High flow cats, and ported TB/plenum. I've since added a 6 lb lower, off road H pipe, Accufab TB (and flow matched 60 lb injectors!!), to the equation. Going to get a retune/redyno in a couple of weeks and am hoping for 540/550. I got a MPH of 128.89 in the 1/4 mile two weeks ago and hoping that with some ice in the box and some decent racing weather, I can hit a 130+ which would be pretty decent for an Eaton.

To make the twin screw worth the $$$ and extra performance, you're going to have to boost it pretty good and that may require some more fuel supply upgrades.
 

04sleeper

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Your car does well IronTerp, I give you that and you bring up some other good points as well but we could go on and on about clutches etc..... even with the Eaton.

But the fact is that you are maxing the Eaton out and beyond by spinning it that hard. I for one am not a fan of running on the ragged edge of something and killing it just to make a few more HP.

Hell, I know many people who like to run a shit load of timing in their cars as well and feel it is safe on pump gas. I do not.

Trust me, I've done the numbers crunching game as well. I've been working on Mustangs for 20 years now so its nothing new to me.

I guess I'm just getting older now and I like my car to last. I for one don't care about having the highest Dyno numbers for my combo. I don't get myself all wrapped up in it. I like efficiency and longevity.

Doesn't mean you are wrong for how you feel. We both just have different goals and I'm just stating my $.02 to possibly help others see a different point of view. Thats all. :beer:
 

IronTerp

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oldbones said:
IronTerp, What tire are you using and what 60' are you getting?
Oldbones, I can't drive worth a sh!t.....Have hit a 1.73 with Nitto 315's and a 1.71 with 275 MT street radials. I just want to hit a 1.6999! Probably going to do the MT ET Streets in the spring.

And 04sleeper, I totally understand where you're coming from and agree with many things that you state. I too want my car to last and take every precaution to make this happen. I run a 6 lb lower at my 2-3 visits to the track every year, and run a 2 lb ring the rest of the time. Running 11.3-4 A/F and 23 degrees of timing with 99 octane at the track. I take 160 lbs out of my Cobra the night before I go to the track and put it all back in when I get home. My car is 99% street and 1% track!

And I'm all about my MPH in the 1/4 and not my dyno numbers and am just looking at cause and affect with my statements here.

My only disagreement here is the difference in cost between an aggressive Eaton setup and a correctly done twin screw application. You say $2,000, I say twice that.....I have my reasons for staying Eaton and have actually already bought (and sold!) a new 140AX. But, I respect the dog out of a well done twin screw Terminator and maybe someday my goals will change.....
 

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It's all good IronTerp. :beer: I understand where you are coming from as well.

Sounds like with your knowledge you will be just fine with the way you have been running it. But not everyone that reads this thread will have the understanding of the benefits of each, that is why I posted. Most people that know me, know how I am with my car. I do all of my own work and help out others here in Dallas as well.

My car so far has been 100% street. Although I do plan on bringing it to the track after my I get a new clutch and 26 spline input shaft. I will also be doing the head cooling mod while I am down there. Then I will probably bring it to the track on some DR's and make a few easy runs just for fun. (I have had 5 other Mustangs before this one and I have track experience as well.)

You are doing AWESOME with your Eaton combo and I congratulate you on what you have done so far.

There is a lot of good info in this thread on both parts.

Cheers :beer:
 
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