BAP/Wiring Upgrade Installation Directions

[BLK03SVT10TH]

Another helpful note for a convertible BAP install is that the picture in IronTerp's write up for the location of the BAP is in a coupe and that support is NOT flat in a convertible. There is a flat spot on the floor of the trunk close to the fender where you can fit the BAP and get two screws in. I used some double stick foam tape to secure it and keep it from vibrating and then used some slightly longer screws to reach the metal floor board.

Just make something like this for mounting the BAP

 

[Bad Pony]

Ok, for those of you that will install a BAP WITHOUT a wiring upgrade, you'll want to make note of this:
First let me say this, the KB instructions are not only confusing but the 03/04 cobra supplement instructions included tell you to cut the brown/pink wire which is Post FPDM (not recommended)
If you are going with the recommended pre-FPDM BAP install, then you will want to make sure you connect the red FUSED wire from the BAP to the green/yellow wire (after cutting per instructions) going AWAY from the FPDM or in other words toward the wiring harness, which goes to the fuel pumps.
Then you connect the red NON FUSED wire from the BAP to the green/yellow wire going to the connector for the FPDM.

Another helpful note for a convertible BAP install is that the picture in IronTerp's write up for the location of the BAP is in a coupe and that support is NOT flat in a convertible. There is a flat spot on the floor of the trunk close to the fender where you can fit the BAP and get two screws in. I used some double stick foam tape to secure it and keep it from vibrating and then used some slightly longer screws to reach the metal floor board. Clink on link below for pic of BAP location.

A BIG thanks to IronTerp for his help during my install. :beer:

http://esimracing.com/jeremya/DSCF8418.JPG

Hey guys,
I have a 99 Cobra (with an 03 Cobra fuel pump) and I don't have the yellow/green wire that the Terminators do. I'm assuming to wire mine pre-FPDM, I use the brown/pink wire (same as in the KB BAP instructions for 96 & up GT 2v and Cobra 4v)? Just wanted to make sure since all the install instructions I've found online are geared towards Terminators. Thanks in advance..

 

[03CobraVertGrey]

Hey guys,
I have a 99 Cobra (with an 03 Cobra fuel pump) and I don't have the yellow/green wire that the Terminators do. I'm assuming to wire mine pre-FPDM, I use the brown/pink wire (same as in the KB BAP instructions for 96 & up GT 2v and Cobra 4v)? Just wanted to make sure since all the install instructions I've found online are geared towards Terminators. Thanks in advance..

Not sure, but I can tell you that the KB instructions for the 03 Cobra are Post FPDM and that is the brown/pink wire. Good luck man!

 

[90lxfox5.0]

ANyone use the msd boostapump?If and tips?There wiring diagram SUCKS

 

[vtecthis349pony]

I have 2 questions.

1. I bought my bap used. the owner cut the switch and did not send it. If I run my 20amp all the time, do i need the switch/knob?

2.What is the benefit of the wiring upgrade?

 

[IronTerp]

I have 2 questions.

1. I bought my bap used. the owner cut the switch and did not send it. If I run my 20amp all the time, do i need the switch/knob?

2.What is the benefit of the wiring upgrade?

1) Very few folks use the Hobbs switch and just let the BAP run full time. It's a simple process as you just need to take the red and black wires which are encased in the black BAP wire and solder them together. Now, you must have your BAP adjustment switch operational and most folks mount this in the trunk and set it at a power level consistent with their fuel needs.

2) The factory fuel system power wire from the engine compartment to the trunk is woefully thin which allows significant voltage loss to the pumps. On a stock Terminator, this is gnerally not an issue, but once RWHP goes up, so obviously do fuel needs, so the fuel pumps need more current to meet fuel demands, (to a point.....). Replacing that factory power wire with a thicker wire is actually a very sufficient way to increase pump capacity in and of itself, regardless of whether a BAP is being used.

 

[HELLFYR]

1) Very few folks use the Hobbs switch and just let the BAP run full time. It's a simple process as you just need to take the red and black wires which are encased in the black BAP wire and solder them together. Now, you must have your BAP adjustment switch operational and most folks mount this in the trunk and set it at a power level consistent with their fuel needs.

Hate to ressurect this thread after 2 years, but I need to know...

WHY do you need the adjustment switch ?

If you short the leads together that are running to it wouldn't you essentially be "dialed" to 50% full time ?

Whether this is dialed to 35% or hard wired to be at full all the time, the TUNE can be adjusted accordinlgy to compensate can't it ?

Am asking because my tuner has recommended I both short the Red/Black together to run full time (no Hobbes) AND he has recommended getting rid of the dial as well.

Thanks,

Rod

 

[ericyow]

Where is the best place to buy the BAP and the wiring upgrade?

 

[whitey92lx]

anyone have a diagram/instructions on how to wire up the wiring upgrade without a boost -a - pump? I have tried several ways and nothing will work.
Thanks

 

[mmustangsrus]

Where is the best place to buy the BAP and the wiring upgrade?

call lethal performance they have a kit for sale there
:beer:

anyone have a diagram/instructions on how to wire up the wiring upgrade without a boost -a - pump? I have tried several ways and nothing will work.
Thanks

huh kinda dont understand you question ?

 

[whitey92lx]

I purchased the wiring upgrade through lethal performance and the instructions only show how to wire it up in conjunction the boost a pump. All I did was upgrade my fuel pumps to 2 ford GT pumps and a upgraded FPDM and I wanted to upgrade the wiring as well.

 

[black03]

If you're installing the wire upgrade kit just to give the FPDM a better power source and will not be using the BAP here's what you'll do.

8ga fused wire from the battery goes to the BLUE wire on the relay harness
BLACK wire on the relay harness is ground.
RED wire is not used
YELLOW wire on the relay harness is going to go to the green/yellow wire FPDM side (which means the green/yellow wire into the FPDM)
WHITE wire on the relay harness goes to the green/yellow wire wire side (Which means the piece of green/yellow going away from the FPDM.

Hope that helps.

Jared

 

[whitey92lx]

Tried that and it and the car wouldn't start. One thing that I did notice is that there are 2 of the pink and Grey wires are spliced into one and then that one goes into the fpdm. Does that make sense?

 

[black03]

Tried that and it and the car wouldn't start. One thing that I did notice is that there are 2 of the pink and Grey wires are spliced into one and then that one goes into the fpdm. Does that make sense?

Brown/Pink? If the brown pink was spliced before that's probably because that's how KB recommends you to install the BAP. (Post FPDM) Since you're not using the BAP anymore you can reconnect the brown/pink wire to itself. That's the power out of the FPDM to the pump.

Now when doing the wire upgrade you're using the green/yellow wire which is (pre-FPDM).

If you are indeed speaking od a grey/pink wire than I'm sorry but I have no clue what you're talking about.. LOL :beer:

 

[MVD]

If you short the leads together that are running to it wouldn't you essentially be "dialed" to 50% full time ?

Whether this is dialed to 35% or hard wired to be at full all the time, the TUNE can be adjusted accordinlgy to compensate can't it ?

Am asking because my tuner has recommended I both short the Red/Black together to run full time (no Hobbes) AND he has recommended getting rid of the dial as well.

Thanks,

Rod

No not at all. The Hobbs switch simply tells the BAP when to activate. So by shorting the wires together it is always active, but the dial still works accordingly. Meaning, just because you have eliminated the Hobbs switch does not mean the BAP runs at full output all the time.

If you have a fuel pressure gauge, fire the car up and watch the gauge. The fuel pressure should be around 38-40 psi at idle, if you quickly turn up the dial you will see the fuel pressure spike until the computer can compensate, which further shows the dial does work as intended even with the wires shorted together eliminating the Hobbs switch.

 

[HELLFYR]

No not at all. The Hobbs switch simply tells the BAP when to activate. So by shorting the wires together it is always active, but the dial still works accordingly. Meaning, just because you have eliminated the Hobbs switch does not mean the BAP runs at full output all the time.

If you have a fuel pressure gauge, fire the car up and watch the gauge. The fuel pressure should be around 38-40 psi at idle, if you quickly turn up the dial you will see the fuel pressure spike until the computer can compensate, which further shows the dial does work as intended even with the wires shorted together eliminating the Hobbs switch.

Sorry for the confusion...

Was actually talking about the wires inside the RCA like jack that runs to the dial itself. Got the car tuned this weekend and that is the first thing the tuner did, yanked the plug on the dial, cut the end off and soldered those 2 wires together. That locks the BAP into its 50% "boost" point.

In conjunction with the typical red/black wires being soldered together directly on the BAP that makes the BAP run full time at full boost.

Can't argue with the results.

Adding: Steig Stage 5, BBK Twin 65 (ported/matched to plenum), 60# injectors and SCT BA2400 car went from 487 to 527 rwhp. It did however drop torque from 557 to 533. SCT Dynotuned by Danny Wolfson at DB Performance in Rogers MN on 92 Octane. Peak at about 19* timing.

:banana:

 

[brian97cobra]

great write up. just a few questions, do you guys recommend putting it before the FPDM or after FPDM and why?

also do you recommend bypassing the hobbs switch for boost and run it all the time or do u recommend installing it?

thanks

brian

 

[turbov6joe]

Three questions relating to the BAP:

1. Is there any specific spot that's recommended to tap into for the boost source?
2. Is it common to take the riastat (sp?) out of the picture and wire it to run at it's highest setting when in use??
3. My hobbs switch says 5psi, is this normal???

TIA

 

[D3 Racing]

great write up. just a few questions, do you guys recommend putting it before the FPDM or after FPDM and why?

also do you recommend bypassing the hobbs switch for boost and run it all the time or do u recommend installing it?

thanks

brian

Pre-FPDM

Most people eliminate the Hobbs switch I believe, at least I did.

 

[forcefedcobra]

nice write up Dwight. I'll be installing a bap on my car here soon so I can up the boost on e85.