Bad Idea to mix and match upper/lower control arms?

AZSN95SNAKE

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Would it be a bad idea to have brand X lower control arms than install brand Y upper control arms? Would they oppose each other?

I have Maximum Motorsports LCA's and am interested in either Steeda or Hotchkis uppers.

The last 3 times I've gone to the track I had a horrible issue with traction. Horrible 60 foots in the mid 2's (I know I know :dw: ). Shifting into second gear and having the rear end jerk to the right and spin until around 5k rpms, than shifting into 3rd and spinning for a bit again. I blamed the track the first time and than it happened a second and third time.

Looking into uppers and SFC's as well as some new tires.

** oh the above was all with nitto 555R's. Going with MT et street drag radials. Not sure if its the tires or the suspension isn't up to par.
 

stangbanger856

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What tire pressure? Also it is ok to mix and match but I think your issue is no weight transfer then control arms.
 
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SVT Rob

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Unless you go with heim joint adjustable uppers that allow some deflection, I would just keep the stockers in there. They provide more deflection to keep the rearend in check. Aftermarket upper control arms with poly bushings will actually cause MORE bind in the factory 4-link setup. MM has a great write up on control arms.
 

chromeyellosnak

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Would it be a bad idea to have brand X lower control arms than install brand Y upper control arms? Would they oppose each other?

I have Maximum Motorsports LCA's and am interested in either Steeda or Hotchkis uppers.

The last 3 times I've gone to the track I had a horrible issue with traction. Horrible 60 foots in the mid 2's (I know I know :dw: ). Shifting into second gear and having the rear end jerk to the right and spin until around 5k rpms, than shifting into 3rd and spinning for a bit again. I blamed the track the first time and than it happened a second and third time.

Looking into uppers and SFC's as well as some new tires.

** oh the above was all with nitto 555R's. Going with MT et street drag radials. Not sure if its the tires or the suspension isn't up to par.


Not to be a Dick, but this sounds like driver error. Are you using street tires and dumping the clutch at 5 grand? There's no way a basically stock cobra is having this much problem going down the track unless your doing something.horribly wrong.imo. check for broken coil springs and air pressure in rear tires. A mid 2 60ft is horrible. You should be able to cut 2.1/2.2 with good driving. I have all stock suspension with lowering springs and 4.30's and I have no issues with a drag radial launching straight and no spin. I'm leaving at 5 plus also.. and I cut a 1.8 60. I really don't see the need for arms in a mostly stock car.
 

AZSN95SNAKE

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I've tried different tire pressures; 35, 25, 20, 15. No luck with any of them. 20 seemed to allow me to only once cut a 2.1 sixty foot.

Can you guys expand on the weight transfer issue? What can I do to correct this?

Its okay, I'm not the best driver out there but I'm sure I can muster a better time but something else seems to be an issue as well. I mean I can dead hook on the street when launching with no problems and just a simple chirp into 2nd and 3rd gear. But at the track, I spin into second, spin second, than spin a little in third.

No, I'm running a 555R drag radial. I tried launching at different RPMs (1800k, 2000k, 2200k, 2400k) and all resulted in spinning. I didn't even bother launching at 5k since I was already spinning at much lower rpms. It can't be all driver error as it's spinning second and a little bit in 3rd as well. Damn nice sixty foot. 5k on DRs? Which ones are you using? The rear LCA's have really helped me out; stays planted in a turn and spins in a straight line rather than fishtail all over the place.

SVTROB: I've read that article before. I have read about the bind but that being with poly bushings. I've also read you can just use rubber bushings in place of the polys on the uppers and it reduces the chance of binding. Its my weekend car and is not daily driven so its okay. My friend through steeda uppers and lowers on his mach 1 and he's now able to launch really well.
 

na svt

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Get some adjustable uppers and set the pinion angle. Your shocks may be shot also.

I cut 1.8 60s with 245 Nitto DRs on a stock rear suspension.
 

SVT Rob

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SVTROB: I've read that article before. I have read about the bind but that being with poly bushings. I've also read you can just use rubber bushings in place of the polys on the uppers and it reduces the chance of binding. Its my weekend car and is not daily driven so its okay. My friend through steeda uppers and lowers on his mach 1 and he's now able to launch really well.

Not a problem, as long as you are aware of the article and have read it :)

I realize it's only a fox chassis, but FWIW, I have stock upper/lowers on my Capri, 2" lowering springs, KYB GR2's, and no quads, and it hooks pretty good, with decent tires on it (re: not street tires).
 

AZSN95SNAKE

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Get some adjustable uppers and set the pinion angle. Your shocks may be shot also.

I cut 1.8 60s with 245 Nitto DRs on a stock rear suspension.

I've been reading into that; my pinion angle must surely be off. Lowered on H&R SS. The shocks are actually in great condition; less than half a year old Bilsteins. I realize H&R ss and bilsteins are not ideal for the drag strip but they should be able to work decently. I wish I wouldn't have sold the stock springs and B springs I had.

That's pretty impressive. Was that also on stock springs? Pretty good 60 for nitto DRs. A lot to think about suspension wise now.

Not a problem, as long as you are aware of the article and have read it :)

I realize it's only a fox chassis, but FWIW, I have stock upper/lowers on my Capri, 2" lowering springs, KYB GR2's, and no quads, and it hooks pretty good, with decent tires on it (re: not street tires).

haha yes I have, I try to search first :beer:

That's interesting for sure. The stock suspension seems to do quite well, in contrast to what most people think. I might have to put the stock rear lowers in and give it a try again. Or would I be better off just getting the aftermarket uppers?
 

na svt

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That's pretty impressive. Was that also on stock springs? Pretty good 60 for nitto DRs. A lot to think about suspension wise now.
Stock springs. What size tire do you have?

That's interesting for sure. The stock suspension seems to do quite well, in contrast to what most people think. I might have to put the stock rear lowers in and give it a try again. Or would I be better off just getting the aftermarket uppers?
Any aftermarket lower is better than the stockers. Adjustable uppers are the way to go.
 

stangbanger856

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Do you slip the clutch on launch or are you dumping it? Also do you let it spin as you shift gears as well? A bolt on cobra could apin bad off the line but you shouldn't be blazing threw 2nd and 3rd gear as well.

Can you give us more detail about what the car is doing down the track? Shifting techniques? burnout process?
 

SVT Rob

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I've been reading into that; my pinion angle must surely be off. Lowered on H&R SS. The shocks are actually in great condition; less than half a year old Bilsteins. I realize H&R ss and bilsteins are not ideal for the drag strip but they should be able to work decently. I wish I wouldn't have sold the stock springs and B springs I had.

That's pretty impressive. Was that also on stock springs? Pretty good 60 for nitto DRs. A lot to think about suspension wise now.



haha yes I have, I try to search first :beer:

That's interesting for sure. The stock suspension seems to do quite well, in contrast to what most people think. I might have to put the stock rear lowers in and give it a try again. Or would I be better off just getting the aftermarket uppers?
Definitely keep the lowers in, they help out a lot. I bought a full set, but never did mine, as I changed direction in what I wanted to do. I'll probably end up putting them in the Cobra.
Stock springs. What size tire do you have?


Any aftermarket lower is better than the stockers. Adjustable uppers are the way to go.
Werd, definitely need adjustable uppers.
 

AZSN95SNAKE

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Stock springs. What size tire do you have?


Any aftermarket lower is better than the stockers. Adjustable uppers are the way to go.

Nice, I should have kept mine. 315 555Rs on a 10.5 wheel. Shouldn't be spinning in second and third.

Do you slip the clutch on launch or are you dumping it? Also do you let it spin as you shift gears as well? A bolt on cobra could apin bad off the line but you shouldn't be blazing threw 2nd and 3rd gear as well.

Can you give us more detail about what the car is doing down the track? Shifting techniques? burnout process?
Slowly slip the clutch, no dumping of the clutch whatsoever. What do you mean by do I let it spin as I shift gears? As its spinning to a gear I don't lay off the gas if that's what you are asking. Once I shift from first to second it jerks to the right and commences spinning all the way to around 5-6200k. Yeah, its mind boggling. The car has no where near the power to fry the tires throughout second gear. It doesn't spin all of 3rd, just the beginning of it, its not just chirping and than gripping, its spinning than it finally grips.

I'm just shifting quickly; no power shifting or anything fancy. Just some quick shifts. On the street it will spin first but just chirp 2nd and 3rd no spinning. The burnout is weak as these guys giving direction at the track don't allow for more than like 5 seconds of a burnout. You proceed to go forward than, reverse it into the water box and the guys are already screaming for you to go to the line. The tires do not cause any smoke during 1st nor 2nd gear burn outs at the track. Maybe the tires need a longer warm up? For some reason it doesn't seem to want to burnout on the track.

Definitely keep the lowers in, they help out a lot. I bought a full set, but never did mine, as I changed direction in what I wanted to do. I'll probably end up putting them in the Cobra.

Werd, definitely need adjustable uppers.
Yeah and they're already in ha, might as well leave them. I'd throw them in, its a much more solid feel in the rear.

I'll have to order some this week than as the track will be open next month on the 12th. Although its open this weekend, but I want to figure this damn thing out first.
 

stangbanger856

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Ignore the stupid worker and heat them up till you see smoke. There job is to puch a botton for the tree to go green, nothing more.
 

stangbanger856

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So when you leave the line and it starts spinning do you lift a little to let it hook back up or do you just let it spin till it hooks or you shift?

Also is the track allways like that or was it like that just that night?
 
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98fourvalve

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What shock setup/spring setup are you running? Last friday when I took mine to the track for the first time I couldn't cut a good 60 ft to save my life. Ended up adjusting my rear shocks and I can tell without even going back to the track how much better it hooks. Ride is much nicer too.
 

chromeyellosnak

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I'm thinking your tires ate still wet or something. Like i said I'm on an m&h racemaster , and h&r Da springs. I have a built rear but stock suspension and shocks. I heat up the tires till the screech , as I let off the gas and brake, the car will violently hook and slingshot me to the line lol. I pull up, trip the beams and hold her to 5 ish and go on second light.. .010 reaction 1.81 60ft and it spins a little through first and chirps second and third. Im running 15lbs in the racemasters and that's it. It works so well for what I have done.
 

Smacked_in_ATL

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Are you removing the front sway bar? If you are not, that will kill your weight transfer! I learned that after 2 trips and adding suspension I probably didn't need at the time. You can buy all the parts in the world but if that sway bar is still on there at the track that front end will never lift up like you want. That will transfer the weight!
 
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