Lighter, cheaper, easier. /thread
This! Which battery is it and how do you like it?
anyone done a battery relocation yet on the coyote?
- Thread starter toomnymods
- Start date
This! Which battery is it and how do you like it?
Sorry just stating my experience. I relocated my battery on a car that hooked up great on a MT ET drag radial, and saw no difference in 60', ET, or mph.
This isn't a 2003 or older Mustang GT where the battery is in the nose of the car either:
You could argue that on our cars, with the battery at the firewall, that this is closer to the middle than the front:
Sorry just hard to justify on this car.
depends on how much power your making too. I'm looking to hook 700whp on 18" DR's next year.
I think this battery have not enough cca....(200 cca range) and if you go with a stronger battery it weight as much as the stock one....anybody have experience with those little battery...??? Is it strong enough ???Lighter, cheaper, easier. /thread
Lighter, cheaper, easier. /thread
That's the way to go if you do it imo. Looks great, simple, less possible points of failure, lighter, and most gains off the nose are forward of the wheels. I think that's one reason Ford moved it here after '04.
I'm planning on relocating the battery as well, but I'm gonna run the positive battery cable to a terminal block under the hood, and connect the factory harness to the terminal block. Since I don't drag race, I don't think I'm going to mount it in a box, or worry about a cutoff switch.
For the OP, you can run the battery cable(s) on the inside of the car, but you'll have to dismantle the rear passenger side interior panels to do it. Your other option, of course, is running in under the car. Other than that, it's a simple task to relocate your battery.
For the OP, you can run the battery cable(s) on the inside of the car, but you'll have to dismantle the rear passenger side interior panels to do it. Your other option, of course, is running in under the car. Other than that, it's a simple task to relocate your battery.
Good info. So what is a good light weight battery for my 03 Mach 1? Thanks
The picture I posted is of the battery in my car. It's an Odyssey PC680. It's been in there for over 2 years, with no problems. I don't sit in the car for hours with the accessories on and engine off, like some people though. If you've got a huge stereo, or other random electrical accessories, I'm sure this isn't the battery for you. IIRC, it's about 20lbs lighter than stock.
Got all the stinger hpm 0awg wiring and interconnects today along with the braille b3121 battery, moroso alternator disconnect relay, moroso safety disconnect switch and the taylor battery box.
Really dont have time to do this until the weekends.. Hopefully i can get it all done this weekend.
Last edited:
DTL, any pics farther back to see how it looks in the car? I love the idea. Maybe too the idea of incorporating a ice box in that same location with the battery...
I don't have any other pics right now. I'll try to take some, next chance I get. I was looking at putting a dedicated fuel cell there, for a nitrous system, but I don't think there's room. Same story with an ice box, I'd guess. Maybe if you moved the battery closer to the motor, but I have my catch can right there, so that's out of the question for me.
really would like to see detailed images of how you dealt with the stock wiring issues where the stock battery went. what did you do to all that wiring? would it pass nhra inspection or do u still need a alternator shut off relay to kill all electronics in the car when they flipped the rear switch?
It can be done without cutting the factory wires if one wanted to. I reroute my cables to the fender well and used an isolator. I am cutting the cables to shorten them & will crimp new lugs on them. I'm splicing the #6 alternator wire & running it back to the disconect switch so the engine doesn't run off the alternator when the switch is off.
The black taped wire is the stock fuse box wire, just rerouted.
The black taped wire is the stock fuse box wire, just rerouted.
Attachments
Last edited:
What did you do about the hump for the spare tire?
Took a BFH & pounded it flat!
Also removing that much weight from the passenger side will mean a re-tune to your cross weighting if you have coil overs. Heavy battery on passenger side helps balance the weight of the driver.
that said, you can get a fully street-able 4lb Lithium ion battery with full billet aluminum mount from Baschur racing for like $650 or less.. here is the battery from JEGS for cheap. factory battery is 33lbs, not sure about the billet tray vs. factory, i'm assuming that saves a few more lbs.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lithium-Pros/403/C680/10002/-1?parentProductId=1770167
that said, you can get a fully street-able 4lb Lithium ion battery with full billet aluminum mount from Baschur racing for like $650 or less.. here is the battery from JEGS for cheap. factory battery is 33lbs, not sure about the billet tray vs. factory, i'm assuming that saves a few more lbs.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Lithium-Pros/403/C680/10002/-1?parentProductId=1770167
Relocating the battery cost as much as a lite weight battery up front, I'm not going to lie. But I'm looking for a bigger battery to run my fan & heat exchanger pump between passes. I'm going with a 800 CCA 40lb battery behind the rear wheels. I'm going to need weight back there to hook 700+ whp on street tires... 305/45/18's
Users who are viewing this thread
