anyone done a battery relocation yet on the coyote?

toomnymods

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Anyone done a nice write up with pics of a battery relocation on the coyote yet? Wanting to make some room in the engine compartment and get some more weight over the rear tires.. Also will be installing my Fore triple pump stage 4 setup as well, so I'm wanting to simplify this and have all the power back there to power the Fore fuel controller. I'm wanting to keep this all NHRA legal, so what all do I need to order besides the obvious battery box?
 
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JUIC3D

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To maintain NHRA legality, you'll have to mount and run a cutoff switch if you relocate the battery. Fabbed5.0 had some pictures up somewhere of his relocation he did. It's very clean.
 

F.D.Sako

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It's been done.
Check out BlowFish racing's relocation kit. I'll post the BMO thread link if I come across it.

Here you go: clicky
 
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toomnymods

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Thanks for the link.. But damn 500.00 for the price of the battery relocation kit?!!?? Lol add that up to the cost of the braille battery i was going to buy and looks like the option to just buy a 500-600 dollar lithium battery is the better option imo and just leave it in the stock location..
 

NOWARRANTY

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Meah...Why bother! Just get a lightweight battery replacement for the stock location and save yourself the headache of the extra wiring and connections!
 

toomnymods

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Well I decided to go ahead and put together my "custom" battery relocation kit using all Stinger HPM 1/0 AWG for the power and ground, and all stinger interconnects, with Braille 3121 battery which is 21lbs (Braille reccomended this size due to a lot of electronics that will be in the car as well as a massive fuel system for the twin setup) Taylor stainless steel battery box.. Will go ahead and start a "Twin turbo install" thread so you guys can see what all is going to be in this beast. Might take a while to finish as I'm not cutting any corners and will be building the car for some serious power. :)
 

Scott8583

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I think the hardest part is trying to find a good spot for a battery disconnect... Anyone have any pics of disconnect location? I see the Cobra Jets drill a hole in the rear of the body, I can't bring myself to do that...
 

Thalilbear02

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I did use the search feature.. Why dont u use it also and youd see thier is no complete writeup for the 2011-2014's on this site.

f1kb.jpg

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...wer-Distribution-Box-relocation-and-wire-tuck

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...e-box-battery-and-ABS-relocate-*lots-of-pics*

Oooohhhh shit, shots fired!

Oh it hurts so goooood lol.

Hope this helps OP I saw this a while back and wants to do something similar

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ry-and-ABS-relocate-*lots-of-pics*&highlight=

^^ Hey look OP! Someone knows how to search and actually write a grammatically correct sentence too! Yayyyyyyy
 

toomnymods

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View attachment 28515

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...wer-Distribution-Box-relocation-and-wire-tuck

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...e-box-battery-and-ABS-relocate-*lots-of-pics*



Oh it hurts so goooood lol.



^^ Hey look OP! Someone knows how to search and actually write a grammatically correct sentence too! Yayyyyyyy

Your a idiot, lol this install doesnt show anything that i'm intrested in doing. Not wanting to hack apart hundreds of wires just to hide the ecm wiring..
Try again
 

Sizeth3

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I did this swap on my old street/strip car.

I loved being able to shut the car off with a single switch, as we all know removing the negative on the battery isn't always convenient.

On the other hand, if I had to do it all over again, I would go to a lightweight battery, and keep it in the stock location.

If you calculate out how many amps you really need, most people need to run 1/0 battery cable. 15' of that stuff start to get heavy. Then, at least with my car, I had to run an alternator wire to the back as well. With a 100 amp alternator, I had to run #6 back to the battery in order to have my car actually shut off when I flipped my switch.

All things considered, between the battery box, 1/0 cable, #6 battery cable, studs under the hood, I think the swap added 20# to my car. Granted it removed 50 pounds from the front of the car, it's not like our batteries are in the absolute nose of the car either. I think a lightweight battery with enough CCA is better in a lot of ways than a rear mounted battery.
 

Scott8583

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I did this swap on my old street/strip car.

I loved being able to shut the car off with a single switch, as we all know removing the negative on the battery isn't always convenient.

On the other hand, if I had to do it all over again, I would go to a lightweight battery, and keep it in the stock location.

If you calculate out how many amps you really need, most people need to run 1/0 battery cable. 15' of that stuff start to get heavy. Then, at least with my car, I had to run an alternator wire to the back as well. With a 100 amp alternator, I had to run #6 back to the battery in order to have my car actually shut off when I flipped my switch.

All things considered, between the battery box, 1/0 cable, #6 battery cable, studs under the hood, I think the swap added 20# to my car. Granted it removed 50 pounds from the front of the car, it's not like our batteries are in the absolute nose of the car either. I think a lightweight battery with enough CCA is better in a lot of ways than a rear mounted battery.

You need weight behind the rear tires to get a good launch. Moving 32lbs from the front to the rear is a 64lb swing. Losing 10 to 15lbs from a light weight battery doesn't do much on a 3800lb car
 

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