wayne did mention timing may be all to hell. high idle its sounds regular just a little supercharger whine.
almost blew up the saleen!!!!
- Thread starter Joe5.0
- Start date
mean saleen
i'm glad you are alive and doing good soo far
cuz i'd been dead if i did that to my dad's car
i'm glad you are alive and doing good soo far
cuz i'd been dead if i did that to my dad's car
I dont think he did it, his dad did do it I think......WEll I hope that its not going to be too much to get done, cause I hate it when crap like this happens to good people
RIck
RIck
Man, I hope it is an easy fix for ya. That sucks.
team23jordan my dad was driving lol. Once again thanks for your concern. Today the saleen is goin to be towed to bickford and there gonna look at it. Some guy traded in his 03 cobra (black with 8,000 miles on it, for a grey non supercharged saleen yesterday. They want 28,995 for it. Im gonna go a head and try and go for it any thoughts opinions?
I would try to get them down to like at least 27000. Just my opinion. I bought my redfire last year with 5k miles for 26900. Just to give you an idea.
really? wow what a deal. Yea ill talk to em right now my situation is they arent gonna look at it till next monday cause the guy is gone. If its somethin easy and fixible i will maybe keep the saleen. If its major i will get a cobra. If its major and i want the cobra but its sold bye then...well then the car will be in my garage for a year or so. I aint got to much $ for a while.
you can have mine for that price............without the stereo
Rick
Rick
rick are you sure lol? we will see man i gotta wait and see wtf is going on and how $. Plus team23jordan wants your car.
mean saleen
it's cool if you wanna get rick's
plus if i do get it, it'll be next summer
i just hope you get to drive your saleen or cobra soon
Team23jordan me too to nice of weather to be driving around a 94 f-250 with 168K miles on it lol..
Is it a TD mean?? Cuase TD's rock
hmwave may be onto something, as are others who’ve suggested timing component issues.
20+ years ago I ran an auto hard parts warehouse (MWI if any locals remember) and submitted all the warranty claims. Oil, dirty oil, was culprit #1, floating the timing components was #2, which includes either combustion assisted (over revving under power) or non-ignition events (key off, oops wrong head gasket when I cranked it over.)
With dished pistons it is pretty hard but not impossible to bend valves, you can trash guides in a hurry, and timing chains skip every day. If you bounce off the rev limiter for an extended period (seconds and 10ths thereof) and exceed the components ability or design limits, a valve springs ability to decompress specifically; all manner of things can go tits up quickly.
In the old days bearings used to go south when this happened because you were mechanically pumping fuel, which diluted the oil, flooded cylinders, resulting in scored piston skirts, broken rings and generally created havoc. I assume today’s computers are smart enough to sense load and cut off fuel but I don’t know that for a fact.
The last complete rebuild I did was a 330 Olds so you’ll need to take whatever I say with a grain of salt.
Either way Mean Saleen, I wish you the best of luck and a speedy automotive recovery but, in any event, insist on a microscopic examination from a qualified metallurgical engineer if you feel you’re being shafted. I’ve personally submitted probably 100 crankshaft, piston or oil pump claims and they all came back with at least a 2 page analysis. In my day it was Silvolite pistons, Michigan & Federal Mogul bearings, Gould diesel parts, Fel-Pro (great company) etc., and all these manufacturers had expert warranty departments that were honest and fair. Ford just assembles stuff so you may have to dig deep if there is really a defect.
That’s my two cents. And if my car wasn’t in the shop I’d have stopped at the first paragraph. Sorry.
20+ years ago I ran an auto hard parts warehouse (MWI if any locals remember) and submitted all the warranty claims. Oil, dirty oil, was culprit #1, floating the timing components was #2, which includes either combustion assisted (over revving under power) or non-ignition events (key off, oops wrong head gasket when I cranked it over.)
With dished pistons it is pretty hard but not impossible to bend valves, you can trash guides in a hurry, and timing chains skip every day. If you bounce off the rev limiter for an extended period (seconds and 10ths thereof) and exceed the components ability or design limits, a valve springs ability to decompress specifically; all manner of things can go tits up quickly.
In the old days bearings used to go south when this happened because you were mechanically pumping fuel, which diluted the oil, flooded cylinders, resulting in scored piston skirts, broken rings and generally created havoc. I assume today’s computers are smart enough to sense load and cut off fuel but I don’t know that for a fact.
The last complete rebuild I did was a 330 Olds so you’ll need to take whatever I say with a grain of salt.
Either way Mean Saleen, I wish you the best of luck and a speedy automotive recovery but, in any event, insist on a microscopic examination from a qualified metallurgical engineer if you feel you’re being shafted. I’ve personally submitted probably 100 crankshaft, piston or oil pump claims and they all came back with at least a 2 page analysis. In my day it was Silvolite pistons, Michigan & Federal Mogul bearings, Gould diesel parts, Fel-Pro (great company) etc., and all these manufacturers had expert warranty departments that were honest and fair. Ford just assembles stuff so you may have to dig deep if there is really a defect.
That’s my two cents. And if my car wasn’t in the shop I’d have stopped at the first paragraph. Sorry.
jakal thanks alot for your great info, you do know what your talking about. They oil pressure is good, i checked the oil it is also good (nothing bad in it) checked all vacuum lines there all good. It is something internally for sure. bent valves, timing i think is what its gonna come doen too. If bickford cant help me i dont know what to do. O and jakal i bounced off rev limiter for a good 5 seconds.
I’m not sure either MS, but if the car runs without major and obvious metal to metal noise then there is a good chance that timing components are to blame. The whole valve train is suspect at this point and in a DOHC engine even little things can have a big impact. The TICK for example has been blamed on everything from heat to torque specs on the cam tower retainer bolts.
5 seconds on the limiter should not have contributed too much to heat and if the oil was clean to begin with it is unlikely that a high rev condition would cause problems on the bottom end. Rough idle is not usually associated with main, cap, wrist pin or even cam bearings. It can and will skip or stretch chains, break or distort chain tensioners, mar or dislodge valve retaining clips, break valve springs and as mentioned before, destroy guides. Hell, it may even bust a cam strut tower or bust a bolt.
After fuel and vacuum, a leakdown test and careful visual inspection with the valve covers off will get you started to isolate the problem. My guess is the damage has already been done and troubleshooting at no-load RPM’s under 1,000 would not do further significant damage.
Of course you want to visually inspect things with the valve covers off first using an ignition off battery crank and a good stethoscope. A slow crank may lead you to a chain problem if nothing obvious seems wrong up top. Note though that valves are designed, at least they used to be, to be free to rotate ever so slightly and the only way to check is either with a micrometer or at idle with a timing light. If it doesn’t rotate, it is probably bent or has a bad guide. Not that I’d know where to even hook up a timing light on a coil on plug beast. God I’m old.
Anyway, a good mechanic will take it one step at a time checking tolerance as he/she goes. Total failures are rare and chances are good it is either a single cylinder issue or a chain issue isolated to one bank.
PM me if you like, if I get my snake back tomorrow I’d be happy to ride out and listen-and bring my stethoscope with me.
5 seconds on the limiter should not have contributed too much to heat and if the oil was clean to begin with it is unlikely that a high rev condition would cause problems on the bottom end. Rough idle is not usually associated with main, cap, wrist pin or even cam bearings. It can and will skip or stretch chains, break or distort chain tensioners, mar or dislodge valve retaining clips, break valve springs and as mentioned before, destroy guides. Hell, it may even bust a cam strut tower or bust a bolt.
After fuel and vacuum, a leakdown test and careful visual inspection with the valve covers off will get you started to isolate the problem. My guess is the damage has already been done and troubleshooting at no-load RPM’s under 1,000 would not do further significant damage.
Of course you want to visually inspect things with the valve covers off first using an ignition off battery crank and a good stethoscope. A slow crank may lead you to a chain problem if nothing obvious seems wrong up top. Note though that valves are designed, at least they used to be, to be free to rotate ever so slightly and the only way to check is either with a micrometer or at idle with a timing light. If it doesn’t rotate, it is probably bent or has a bad guide. Not that I’d know where to even hook up a timing light on a coil on plug beast. God I’m old.
Anyway, a good mechanic will take it one step at a time checking tolerance as he/she goes. Total failures are rare and chances are good it is either a single cylinder issue or a chain issue isolated to one bank.
PM me if you like, if I get my snake back tomorrow I’d be happy to ride out and listen-and bring my stethoscope with me.
yea you cant hear any metal to metal contact what so ever. Visual inspection i have done and only the belt is bad as it is shredded torn and ripped. The car once off idle (800-900) the motor sounds find and all good. But once it starts it wants to die so u must keep on the gas. Suprisingly when i got the car out the garage tuesday to get on the bed of the tow truck it did not die and didnt need gas to run. It just idled extremely ruff sounding like an 800hp crate motor. Jakal id love for you to look at the car but it currently is in bickfords hands right now.In the long run i hope i just blew 5 spark plugs lol.
Mean Saleen: Buy the 03, you'll never look back. As for the price, I paid 30,500 fora a new one w/96 miles just over a month ago; $28,000 seems a high
We shall see. I am 60% sure im goin w/ the saleen. But it depends on what actually is broken in the saleen.
Plugs are certainly a possibility but I’ve zero experience with regards the dynamics of a SC blown engine in your situation. Hell, I don’t even know if you were still getting boost when you hit the limiter. Static I think these things run about 8.5:1 but if you’re still in boost hitting the limiter, Yee-Ha.
I will say I’m not impressed with Bickford, they had mine for 4 days to fix a belt squeak and didn’t; didn’t tackle the dash rattle, didn’t align the passenger windows where there is a gap at the apex and, didn’t install the front plate. And I gave them a list! They must be made of money anyway, there are Saleens and SVT’s all over that lot and most have grills and wheels with moss on them, they have been there a while. I got a good price, 32.5 for my 10th vert if memory serves, but was immediately rebuffed when I asked about mods and I had the salesman, Swede I think, call the service manager, same answer. More power to them if they can sit on that kind of inventory cash, it escapes me.
I will say I’m not impressed with Bickford, they had mine for 4 days to fix a belt squeak and didn’t; didn’t tackle the dash rattle, didn’t align the passenger windows where there is a gap at the apex and, didn’t install the front plate. And I gave them a list! They must be made of money anyway, there are Saleens and SVT’s all over that lot and most have grills and wheels with moss on them, they have been there a while. I got a good price, 32.5 for my 10th vert if memory serves, but was immediately rebuffed when I asked about mods and I had the salesman, Swede I think, call the service manager, same answer. More power to them if they can sit on that kind of inventory cash, it escapes me.
Users who are viewing this thread
