Any hp improvement by just changing the resonator. (Air intake )
Air intake
- Thread starter GNSNAKE
- Start date
On these cars a res delete actually gives a decent HP bump
TB usually the biggest restriction. If just wanting a nice mild gain and potentially no tuning, you may be able to run the delete and FRPP twin 65 TB, but I say a tune and common mods, Revan Racing or VMP power packs for example.
-J
-J
I want to say I remember someone on this board claiming 25 RWHP confirmed on a dyno
I agree with these recommendations, especially the tune.
OP, you didn't say what mods you presently have, if any. I'm guessing stock. IMO if you're stock or near stock, you'll want more than just a slight power boost from a resonator delete. You really won't feel a 15-25hp gain. Do the tune and common mods that biminiLX recommended and you'll be happier because you'll definitely feel an increase. JMO.
If I recall , BiminiLX went 11.0 ish with just a 65 mm TB, Lund tune, 410 gears and DRs at around 129 mph. J?
I believe a 'stock' Lund tune alone is worth about 45 HP. (There is a YouTube vid you can look at to see dyno run.) But with no tune, I think Norton reported he saw roughly a 25 hp gain or so with the res delete and TB, but I doubt the res delete alone does much of anything other than sound 'better'. The stock intake with its 'muffler' still flows a lot better than the stock TB, so as J mentioned - it's the TB that's the issue.
Given my advanced age - my memory may be weak. So search the forums for 65mm TB and you will find the threads.
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Dino--11.03 was no TB, only mode were 4.10s, 20" Nitto DRs, Lund tune. Engine stock to paper filter 
-J
-J
I dynoed my car with the stock resonator, JLT resonator delete, and the Ford Racing resonator delete. Unfortunately the car wasn't cooled down more than 5-10 minutes between dyno pulls, however it did gain 10ft/lbs of torque with the Ford Racing resonator delete and 4ft/lbs of torque with the JLT. If we gave the car a little more time to cool down I suspect there may have been slightly better gains.
-However, I will say this; the JLT resonator delete -AND- the Ford Racing resonator delete both warped over time where the plastic unit mates to the throttle body coupler. I'm assuming this was a result of the heat and the tightness of the coupler bands making the plastic pliable and bend over time. If anyone wants to see a photo I will be glad to show them.
Dino--11.03 was no TB, only mode were 4.10s, 20" Nitto DRs, Lund tune. Engine stock to paper filter
-J
Damn! I stand corrected. More reason to go with a simple Lund tune.
I told you my advanced age was sneaking up on me... thanks for setting the record straight.
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Great info - I guess I am surprised because I recall a Steigemeier video where he flowed the stock intake and filter at much higher than the TB. So it followed that anything upstream of the TB wouldn't help much.
Btw I would love to see that photo... it gets REAL hot down here.
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I'll take a new photo when I get home today. I posted in the dyno section my findings with the resonator delete vs stock resonator.
JLT on the left, Ford Racing on the right. Warping plastic circled in red.
Wow - thanks very much for posting that - Better go check mine.
What is your area like? I'm in TX now and it gets brutal in the summer. I try to drive the thing early in the mornings to avoid the heat.
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I'm sure it's not as hot here as it is in Texas, so I would imagine if the under hood temperatures get hotter for you, there's additional risk of the plastic warping. The plastic most likely becomes pliable and softer under heat, causing the plastic to bend where the nut assembly is located on the metal coupler.
Not trying to be crazy here but what about the tons of other plastic under the hood? If high heat caused those CAI to wrap would there not be other pieces of plastic that took heat damage? Maybe it was an installation problem? If they were not fully seated on the TB and then clamped down they would warp...right? Just my 2-cents.
Interesting thought. It could be the type of plastic/material they're made from combined with tension from a metal clamp and high under hood temperatures.
It would be nearly impossible for an installation error to occur. The plastic part of the resonator delete does not mate to the throttle body or MAF housing. There are rubber couplers that connect the resonator delete to the throttle body and MAF housing at either end, then subsequently uses the metal clamps to hold into place. The metal clamps cause an even amount of torque in a 360 degree fashion ensuring a proper air tight seal. If over torqued, the metal clamps will strip, twist, and break. The problem with the warping appears to happen directly under the nut/screw in the metal clamp where the force is being held, about 1" from the end.
Bottom line, the plastic being used just isn't high quality for either piece, and I would be surprised if more owners aren't experiencing the same problem. The only reason I noticed this was happening, is because I was removing the resonator delete pieces and measuring the ID of the tubes to see how they compared to the stock unit.
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Could be the answer.....I only use a nut driver when tightening those gear clamps. If a ratchet is used there might me too much torque.
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