A few MODS I'm considering..what should I do?

ad2330

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A few of the mods I'm considering..

1) CCW LM20's/R888's - car currently has 18" Saleen reps

2) Coilovers - car currently has H&R Super Sports

3)McLeod RXT Twin Disc Clutch/26 spline - car currently has stock clutch, and I'm making 658whp..

I'd love to do them all, but don't feel that's wise at the time haha.

Thoughts?
 

05satinGT

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Are you asking which of these three to do if you had to pick one? If so, clutch and input shaft first no brainer. No use having nice wheels if the car can't perform!
 

Zemedici

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Are you asking which of these three to do if you had to pick one? If so, clutch and input shaft first no brainer. No use having nice wheels if the car can't perform!

this. You'll need the clutch eventually with your power level anyway. May as well get it out of the way.
 

SlowSVT

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I take it you got full length sub-frame connectors on the bad boy. Best to list all your mods you may be missing something important.

I would take a pass on the coilovers especially on a vert. That would move the load high in the chassis to the fender aprons which are not designed to carry the weight of the car where it will have more leverage on a chassis without a roof structure (a coup would handle this better). The stock coil springs keep the load low in the chassis along the frame rails going straight to the floor pan and does not carry the weight of the engine like coilovers do.
 
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AMWill

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A few of the mods I'm considering..

1) CCW LM20's/R888's - car currently has 18" Saleen reps

2) Coilovers - car currently has H&R Super Sports

3)McLeod RXT Twin Disc Clutch/26 spline - car currently has stock clutch, and I'm making 658whp..

I'd love to do them all, but don't feel that's wise at the time haha.

Thoughts?

Hey Ad,

First of all, great looking car- I absolutely love he color scheme.

Second, I'm going to have to agree with everyone in here and recommend you to go with the clutch next. You will definitely need it down the road so it's best to get it out of the way!

Hope this helps!

-Will
 

ad2330

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I take it you got full length sub-frame connectors on the bad boy. Best to list all your mods you may be missing something important.

I would take a pass on the coilovers especially on a vert. That would move the load high in the chassis to the fender aprons which are not designed to carry the weight of the car where it will have more leverage on a chassis without a roof structure (a coup would handle this better). The stock coil springs keep the load low in the chassis along the frame rails going straight to the floor pan and does not carry the weight of the engine like coilovers do.


Correct. And here's a full list of mods:

Borla Stinger cat-back
BBK off-road X pipe
MGW shifter
Optima battery
2.8" pulley
SCT custom flip chip
LFP intercooler
Sub-frame connectors
H&R Super Sport springs
Maximum Motorsport Caster/Camber plates
Mach 1 solid rear axle with Moser axles
Drilled/slotted Baer Eradispeed rotors
Metco 4-piece idler set
Metco tensioner bracket
Maximum Motorsports adjustable LCA's
J&M upper control arms
Maximum Motorsports isolators
Driveshaft safety loop
Russell braided brake lines
JLT oil seperator
JLT pre-filter
JLT Ram Air Intake
Maximum Motorsports 3/8" wheel spacers
Lethal extended lug nuts
MMD hood raise kit
Saleen replica chrome wheels - 18x10/18x9
BFG KDW tires - 275-35-18
BFG KDW Drag radial tires - 295-35-18
HPP Racing custom tune & plugs
2.3L TVS VMP 2nd gen blower/GT500 throttle body.
Full Return Fuel System (CP-E Billet fuel hat, 2 465 Warbro Fuel Pumps, -10 fuel filter, -8 Startlite feed line, Y block, -10 FP reg, -6 Startlite return line, fittings, hose ends, wiring, etc.)
80# Injectors


Are you asking which of these three to do if you had to pick one? If so, clutch and input shaft first no brainer. No use having nice wheels if the car can't perform!

I'm starting to think clutch >>>>>>>>> anything else at this point..

nice car...even nicer ##

1. FTBR upgrade
2. clutch upgrade

You are on borrowed time with that set up on the stock clutch anyways.


Thanks! Yes I'm thinking clutch is/should be first priority.
 

Posi

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Why the clutch if it's fine and if you don't dog it on the street to bad for it to slip? Or do you even go to the track? If you do dog the car with a stock clutch just make sure it's all the way in the next gear and then crack on it. Or I guess what I'm saying is no power shifting. If you drive decent and let the clutch act the way it's supposed to it's already lasted this long why replace it when it's still fine?
 

ad2330

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Why the clutch if it's fine and if you don't dog it on the street to bad for it to slip? Or do you even go to the track? If you do dog the car with a stock clutch just make sure it's all the way in the next gear and then crack on it. Or I guess what I'm saying is no power shifting. If you drive decent and let the clutch act the way it's supposed to it's already lasted this long why replace it when it's still fine?

You're right in that it's been 'fine' up until now. However, I JUST completed the blower/E85 mods and so this power range is a whole new ball game. Previously it's been around the 475whp mark.

We shall see.. but I'm thinking clutch is going to have to be next.
 

tt335ci03cobra

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Rxt! But then I'd do the rims. I waited for ever to do rims only car, and wish I did them a decade ago.

Coil overs are iffy on a vert. Contact MAximum Motorsports and they can explain the best options. I'd upgrade the actual shocks/struts, and run a great spring like 600-750's all around.

If you plan to put a 6pt cage in (looks killer in a very when properly done with padding wtc) the. Coil overs aren't a bad idea but you need to tighten the chassis up a lot first. A strut tower brace and trunk brace aren't bad ideas on a very either, and see if a local shop would do some simple stitch welds on the under sides.

With the solid axle, it looks like you have a good slew of mods, I can't remember if I read a pan hard bar or 3 link, those are great ideas in the future depending on your driving style.
 
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