Running the BAP all the time just causes more fuel to flow through the fuel pressure regulator and back to the tank through the return line. It still keeps the fuel pressure at a steady 39 PSI above the relative pressure in the intake manifold.
97 cobra kenne bell help!!!
- Thread starter J&JIndustrial
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Define "goes nuts". You should see values near stoich while at idle/light throttle, values at the absolute max of the gauge's range during coast down (if CFSO is still active in the tune file), and values tapering below 12:1 as you approach WOT.
Where stoich is 14.64. It should be bouncing a little above and below stoich. 
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Ok that's pretty much how it runs as race cougar described.
Ok pulled the number one plug and its rusty?? its gapped about right on its an NGK guy at napa gave me autolite 104s says they were the same as the denso T20EPRU gonna gap them to .035 see what happens
There are a few things wrong with that statement. First off, each spark plug manufacturer has their own means of labeling the heat range for a plug. A plug that is "one step colder than stock" from one manufacturer doesn't necessarily equate to the same from another manufacturer. Secondly, and more importantly, a Autolite 104 is NOT a colder than stock plug for this application. At 5-6 psi of boost, the NGK TR6, Autolite 103, Motorcraft 22C, or Denso T20EPR-U would be acceptable choices. Install a new set, make a pull, then pull a few and read the timing and heat range marks.
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