97 cobra kenne bell help!!!

[J&JIndustrial]

Just bought a 97 cobra 29k miles having some tuning issues. Car wasn't drove much by previous owner and he didn't build the car and didn't know much about it so figured a good dyno tune was a good idea. We'll I swapped a bassani catted x pipe for and off road bbk and slp loud mouth cat back.
Car has:
30lb injectors
jlt cold air
c&L mass air
msd digital 6 ignition accel packs and wires
snow meth injection set for boost
bbk 65mm twin throttle body
fluidine radiator
kenne bell boost a pump
what sounds like an aftermarket fuel pump
took it to CRT performance spent $400 for 3 hours on a dyno car runs worse then before don't know what he even did to be honest
car makes 5-6psi boost on gauges Aem wide band goes from 15's to 10 or 11's at throttle
fuel pressure 40psi under wot
car detonates at idle and made 338hp 278ft lbs any help or advice would be greatly appreciated !!

 

[RIO RED SNAKE]

Needs bigger injectors, atleast 39# or 42# , and go to a new tuning shop! don't drive/beat on it or ull kill it

 

[Prototype007]

Needs bigger injectors, atleast 39# or 42# , and go to a new tuning shop! don't drive/beat on it or ull kill it

This or I'll end up buying it blown up for super cheap lol!

 

[J&JIndustrial]

Yeah I'm frustrated cause I knew it needed retuned and clearly asked the guy you familiar with this style car, oh yeah yeah I told him if anything needed changed do it well needless to say nothing was changed so I waited a week drove 3 and a half hours one way trailered it there the first time and spent $400 on it for it to run worse.
Any way would it be worth the work to relocate the iat from the intake ?
When I got it the iAt was out of the jlt just dangling by the engine .
Who would be a tuner that really knows these cars not just slap it on the dyno and jack it all up?
Lol I told him about bigger injectors he said they don't make 42lbs any more they usually just do 60lbs

 

[laddanator]

Yeah I'm frustrated cause I knew it needed retuned and clearly asked the guy you familiar with this style car, oh yeah yeah I told him if anything needed changed do it well needless to say nothing was changed so I waited a week drove 3 and a half hours one way trailered it there the first time and spent $400 on it for it to run worse.
Any way would it be worth the work to relocate the iat from the intake ?
When I got it the iAt was out of the jlt just dangling by the engine .
Who would be a tuner that really knows these cars not just slap it on the dyno and jack it all up?
Lol I told him about bigger injectors he said they don't make 42lbs any more they usually just do 60lbs

Actually, I just Installed a KB and I used 47 pound injectors. Skip the 42s and you don't need the 60s. Also, I would most effective the IAT sensor to the KB intake.

 

[J&JIndustrial]

Is there a pre tapped spot for it there and what iat did you use lighting ?
I'm just trying to do things I can before taking it to a tuner but with what ever tunes this joker has slapped on there who knows where to start

 

[RIO RED SNAKE]

Is there a pre tapped spot for it there and what iat did you use lighting ?
I'm just trying to do things I can before taking it to a tuner but with what ever tunes this joker has slapped on there who knows where to start

I have a set of used 42# injectors if you are interested for $110 shipped and get the lightning iat sensor with harness plug and there is a sheet that tells you where to tap it, I had a machine shop do mine for free since it was so easy he said, so it's on the passenger side front of the blower, mwolson has the template if you find his name on here shoot him a pm, he is the man when it comes to this stuff in our section. Get the 42# injectors used! and get the sensor and harness plug in new and go get it tapped and extend the wires and you will be ready to go. Do more research in your area and go somewhere else.

What size KB? I had a 1.5 non intercooled and made 321/321 on 8lbs, added snow methanol kit running windshield wiper fluid and upped it to 10# and made 382/381 but would easily peter back down to 300 wheel after a few back to back pulls

 

[J&JIndustrial]

It's the 2.1 running 6lb pulley snow meth before the throttle body and did you have to remove the blower obviously to install it all the right ups I seen where on the intake underneath the kenne bell.
Shorty headers off road bbk and slp loud mouth cat back.
It's got the kenne bell polished intake underneath the blower does that delete the imrc plates?

 

[laddanator]

It's the 2.1 running 6lb pulley snow meth before the throttle body and did you have to remove the blower obviously to install it all the right ups I seen where on the intake underneath the kenne bell.
Shorty headers off road bbk and slp loud mouth cat back.
It's got the kenne bell polished intake underneath the blower does that delete the imrc plates?

Yes, I used a lightning IAT. You either have to have the IMRC plates or the deletes for the belt to fit. The KB lower intake (as I call it) does not eliminate the IMRC. I got the delete plates from MMR.

I made a thread when I installed mine ( http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?981730-KB-Install-With-Pics!&highlight= ). It shows what I used and where I drilled the hole. If you decide to go new injectors, get the 47 # These are the ones I bought

http://www.blueovalindustries.com/en8390.html

mwolson site, as RIO RED SNAKE mentioned, has killer information on this project. He helped my a ton.

 

[racecougar]

These guys are correct. You need larger injectors. Relocating the IAT sensor post-blower is absolutely recommended. I'd revert back to the stock ignition. Also, you should see ~45-46 psi of fuel pressure at the rail at WOT if you're producing 5-6 psi of boost. Is the reference line for the FPR attached to a port post-blower? It needs to be both vacuum AND boost referenced. If you're only seeing 40 psi at the rail, I'd bet that the reference line is hooked to the inlet plenum, which is NOT correct.

 

[laddanator]

These guys are correct. You need larger injectors. Relocating the IAT sensor post-blower is absolutely recommended. I'd revert back to the stock ignition. Also, you should see ~45-46 psi of fuel pressure at the rail at WOT if you're producing 5-6 psi of boost. Is the reference line for the FPR attached to a port post-blower? It needs to be both vacuum AND boost referenced. If you're only seeing 40 psi at the rail, I'd bet that the reference line is hooked to the inlet plenum, which is NOT correct.

Not trying to highjack here, but you have your FPR hook to one of the two boost sensor ports? Now that you say it, I think my FPR is hooked into one of the inlet ports. Could just T into the boost gauge line for the FPR?

 

[racecougar]

Not trying to highjack here, but you have your FPR hook to one of the two boost sensor ports? Now that you say it, I think my FPR is hooked into one of the inlet ports. Could just T into the boost gauge line for the FPR?

The FPR reference line needs to be routed post-blower, as the FPR needs to be able to increase fuel pressure beyond 39.5 psi as you enter boost. Yes, you could use the same port you would use for a vacuum/boost gauge (post-blower).

In this pic, you can see the two post-blower reference ports. I have the front port routed to the FPR, and the rear port routed to the vac/boost gauge.

 

[mwolson]

Not trying to highjack here, but you have your FPR hook to one of the two boost sensor ports? Now that you say it, I think my FPR is hooked into one of the inlet ports. Could just T into the boost gauge line for the FPR?

That's what I did and it has worked fine for me for years.

Here's the link to the write-up I did for my IMRC delete and IAT relocation. http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/IAT-IMRC/IAT-IMRC.htm

I moved mine to next to the boost port on top. Others (racecougar included if I remember correctly) relocated it to the center bottom of the intake manifold. I think the bottom location may give you a little bit better (more average) temperature reading than the top (front right of the manifold), but I wanted easier access to the sensor and the wiring.

And I use zip ties instead of hose clamps on the boost lines.

 

[laddanator]

The FPR reference line needs to be routed post-blower, as the FPR needs to be able to increase fuel pressure beyond 39.5 psi as you enter boost. Yes, you could use the same port you would use for a vacuum/boost gauge (post-blower).

In this pic, you can see the two post-blower reference ports. I have the front port routed to the FPR, and the rear port routed to the vac/boost gauge.

Sent you a PM

 

[J&JIndustrial]

Thanks so much for all the help and support gonna do some of these things what about spark plugs? Brand? Gap? and what do you think about the boost a pump
Also where would the msd digital 6 box be ?
Trying to work thru this looks like I might have to pull the blower and re install it to get everything how it should be

 

[mwolson]

I run Autolites copper plugs gapped at 0.035". I will only run copper plugs. Here's the research I did for spark plugs for your cars: http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/UnderTheHood/SparkPlugs/SparkPlugs.htm

You need the BAP if you are running the stock fuel pump. I ran mine on all the time (I just shorted the Hobbes switch input on the BAP). I hated the AFR glitch the Hobbes switch caused when the BAP kicked in. The BAP on all the time won't hurt your stock pump at all. I am running a 250LPH pump now, so the BAP is gone.

I'd dump the MSD box and go back to OEM stock.

 

[RIO RED SNAKE]

I had a walbro 255 lph with no boost a pump, and yes you have the pull the blower to tap it to avoid metal shavings, and the imrcs will be there or they will be delete plates in there, that may be part of your problem. Boost a pump will work fine ditch the msd. I ran ngk tr6 spark plugs gapped at .032 but mwolsons method works as well.

 

[J&JIndustrial]

I think it may have an aftermarket pump when I turn the key I can here the pump like my diesel with a fass system does that sound right or can the stock pumps be loud as well also a little info on running the kenne bell all the time cause my air fuel gauge foes nuts too

 

[racecougar]

Others (racecougar included if I remember correctly) relocated it to the center bottom of the intake manifold. I think the bottom location may give you a little bit better (more average) temperature reading than the top (front right of the manifold), but I wanted easier access to the sensor and the wiring.

Yes, I placed my IAT sensor in the lower manifold.

I think it may have an aftermarket pump when I turn the key I can here the pump like my diesel with a fass system does that sound right or can the stock pumps be loud as well...

You're not going to be able to determine what fuel pump you have by what it sounds like.

...also a little info on running the kenne bell all the time cause my air fuel gauge foes nuts too

Is this a narrowband gauge you're referring to?

 

[J&JIndustrial]

Aem Uego wide band I believe