That's what plastic valve covers being 1" away from your exhaust will get you. 20 minute session = 20 minutes of skyhigh EGT's, and exhaust wrap only does so much.
5.bros and boss's don't road race your hellion TT
- Thread starter slamdcoop0428
- Start date
HELLION TURBO
New Member
Hello.
We have been in communication with the distributor that installed the system and we are investigating the cause of the melted coil covers. We have had this system available for over two years and have hundreds of GT and Boss Mustangs on the road, many of whom road race on a weekly basis with no issue. This particular customer has the car at the distributor currently being repaired cosmetically, as there was no mechanical damage. We are currently engineering an additional heat solution to ensure that this will not happen again regardless of the conditions of use.
We will keep everyone updated to our findings and any other information along the way.
We have been in communication with the distributor that installed the system and we are investigating the cause of the melted coil covers. We have had this system available for over two years and have hundreds of GT and Boss Mustangs on the road, many of whom road race on a weekly basis with no issue. This particular customer has the car at the distributor currently being repaired cosmetically, as there was no mechanical damage. We are currently engineering an additional heat solution to ensure that this will not happen again regardless of the conditions of use.
We will keep everyone updated to our findings and any other information along the way.
Oh man that blows
Mine showed some heat damage after probably 500 street miles all being wrapped. Could not see it until I removed the kit. Not bad but I don't know if it may have gotten worse.
Yikes!!! At least the incident did no more than that!
Man, that looks like a fun problem to try and solve. First thing I would do is lose the insulation on the bottom side of the hood at minimum and/or consider a different hood that vents more air. Will be interested to see what Urist and his crew come up with.
I have run mine hard for 2k miles so far and have not seen any sign of damage from heat. I do love the 13/14 functional vents on the hood and I also removed the blanket to let more heat out. I ceramic coated and wrapped all hotside and also put blankets on the turbine housings and so far, so good. I can touch any part of the hotside immediately after making a full 1/4 mile pass without being burned. It's hot, but not overwhelmingly so.
damn thats crazy.. I'm surprised it cooked with that exhaust wrap. I bought some of that same lava wrap and they said it can withstand continuous 1800* conditions. Sure, the wrap won't catch on fire, but how hot will it get on the other side? now we know.
I have been involved with turbo systems being run at Bonneville since 1977.
And my friends and I discovered really quickly that the only way to shield engine components from excess heat was a metal heat shield. We used a double layer of aluminum sheet with an air gap between the two sheets. So that gives you an air gap between the turbo housing and the first aluminum sheet, the sheet., another air gar, another sheet, and the final air gap next to the engine components. Since these turbos were producing around 40 psi in a totally sealed streamliner (except for carefully set up cooling ducts and exits) there was a tremendous amount of waste heat to protect against. The same type of thing was formed from stainless steel to fit around the hot side plumbing too.
With today's available coatings, plus thermal wraps, plus metal heat shields with an air gap it shouldn't be too difficult to control the heat. But it will still be necessary to vent the heat from the engine compartment. We used ducts of various volumes for both entrance and exit air flow. We learned very early on that you need a huge exit for a fairly small entrance. We actually had ballooning problems once due to too small an exit. The air pressure at 345mph actually deformed the shell around the rear engine area (we were running two engines to make that class size).
And my friends and I discovered really quickly that the only way to shield engine components from excess heat was a metal heat shield. We used a double layer of aluminum sheet with an air gap between the two sheets. So that gives you an air gap between the turbo housing and the first aluminum sheet, the sheet., another air gar, another sheet, and the final air gap next to the engine components. Since these turbos were producing around 40 psi in a totally sealed streamliner (except for carefully set up cooling ducts and exits) there was a tremendous amount of waste heat to protect against. The same type of thing was formed from stainless steel to fit around the hot side plumbing too.
With today's available coatings, plus thermal wraps, plus metal heat shields with an air gap it shouldn't be too difficult to control the heat. But it will still be necessary to vent the heat from the engine compartment. We used ducts of various volumes for both entrance and exit air flow. We learned very early on that you need a huge exit for a fairly small entrance. We actually had ballooning problems once due to too small an exit. The air pressure at 345mph actually deformed the shell around the rear engine area (we were running two engines to make that class size).
I know this is gonna start a flame fest… but anyways…
This is why I bought my Shelby. Back when I was racing my Truck, I most of went through every piece of the drive train replacing busted parts at one point or the other… When you heavily modify a car not designed for a TT set up you end up with this kind of stuff happening. melted Valve Covers might seem minor BUT… imagine what that heat is doing to the Valve Train… say you get some sexy new valve covers that DONT melt… can the Coyote handle that kind of heat DIRECTLY ADJACENT to the cams, springs etc?
you hear people say, "**** paying 70K on a shelby!"
Well, I know I paid 58,000 for mine. and its far from bare bones. you can easily get a 13-14 Shelby in the 50s if you shop around. is that a lot of money for a car? Sure it is. but what are you getting in return?
662hp from the Factory. 1500$ later you end up with over 700hp/700tq at your wheels and more fun than you know what to do with and a car that is DESIGNED to handle the power.
Love the 5.0s, Love the Boss.. In fact I keep kicking around the idea of getting a Laguna version for a track car. but these cars are NOT designed for certain set ups. I would say they need to address the position of that turbo… possibly do like STI kits do and place it under the car.
This is why I bought my Shelby. Back when I was racing my Truck, I most of went through every piece of the drive train replacing busted parts at one point or the other… When you heavily modify a car not designed for a TT set up you end up with this kind of stuff happening. melted Valve Covers might seem minor BUT… imagine what that heat is doing to the Valve Train… say you get some sexy new valve covers that DONT melt… can the Coyote handle that kind of heat DIRECTLY ADJACENT to the cams, springs etc?
you hear people say, "**** paying 70K on a shelby!"
Well, I know I paid 58,000 for mine. and its far from bare bones. you can easily get a 13-14 Shelby in the 50s if you shop around. is that a lot of money for a car? Sure it is. but what are you getting in return?
662hp from the Factory. 1500$ later you end up with over 700hp/700tq at your wheels and more fun than you know what to do with and a car that is DESIGNED to handle the power.
Love the 5.0s, Love the Boss.. In fact I keep kicking around the idea of getting a Laguna version for a track car. but these cars are NOT designed for certain set ups. I would say they need to address the position of that turbo… possibly do like STI kits do and place it under the car.
If I had to take a guess, I'd say that the issue is a combination of heat management in the engine bay along with a tune not really designed to handle that type of activity.
Obviously without seeing the tune I'm completely guessing here, but it would seem logical that there is a boost referenced timing curve in play. With the sophistication of the management system in the coyote, that timing curve probably takes in to account more than just boost and load but also engine temperature. If you start pulling timing by a large margin, over an extended period of time, your EGT's go through the roof.
Not only would I look at additional shielding, but I'd be looking at running a road race specific map that takes in to account long loading times and manages EGT's while remaining conservative for that the engine combination can handle.
Obviously without seeing the tune I'm completely guessing here, but it would seem logical that there is a boost referenced timing curve in play. With the sophistication of the management system in the coyote, that timing curve probably takes in to account more than just boost and load but also engine temperature. If you start pulling timing by a large margin, over an extended period of time, your EGT's go through the roof.
Not only would I look at additional shielding, but I'd be looking at running a road race specific map that takes in to account long loading times and manages EGT's while remaining conservative for that the engine combination can handle.
Meh, i am not surprised at all. Although these kits look good and make a ton of power on the dyno they are simply aftermarket add-ons that the vehicle was not designed for. There's a reason why OEMs spend millions of dollars and years of development work on high performance vehicles. Ceramic coating and wrap only does so much.
Wow, an honest sounding and proper response. Color me impressed!
I wonder how my hellion single would do since it's on the front and away from the bay. Except it is kinda near the tire lol
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This.
Not sure what someone expected from that setup. Exhaust that close to plastic/composite valve covers, no amount of coatings or heat wrap will protect it from that much heat after 20min of full on WOT track use.
I know it will require a lot of piping, but what about setting up the twins where the CS fog lights are?
Kind of like those custom setups on the '03/'04 cobras where the twins were getting air from the fog light opening.
Kind of like those custom setups on the '03/'04 cobras where the twins were getting air from the fog light opening.
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