No body shops will paint it in your area?
What are they so scared of?
What are they so scared of?
No body shops will paint it in your area?
What are they so scared of?
If you do a clear get one of those 2k clears like this with the activator/hardner
Otherwise your clear will likely yellow... don't want that.
Couldn't I use a single stage paint? I expect delivery of the new insert today.
Couldn't I use a single stage paint? I expect delivery of the new insert today.
If you do a clear get one of those 2k clears like this with the activator/hardner
Otherwise your clear will likely yellow... don't want that.
Yes you absolutely could. I would still use the adhesion promoter no matter what you decide.
I personally don’t like trim pieces painted like you want, but if that’s the look your going for you can get a catalyzed aerosol clear. Google “2k aerosol clear“ and a 2 part clear will come up. You can find guys using it on YouTube as well.Considering I'll have to use a rattle-can, there's no way to add a catalyst. Not sure how I would get around that.
Adhesion promoter is a decided deal. My plan is to scuff-up the surfaces as stated earlier, clean with either alcohol or a prep-solution, then paint with a quality single stage paint of matching color code.
A clear coat would be fine too, but I'm not sure about all that since I seem to need a catalyst to prevent yellowing.
For most trim I would agree. However, in the hood of a deep black car, chalked gray doesn’t make the grade. It’s not a good look for my car.I personally don’t like trim pieces painted like you want, but if that’s the look your going for you can get a catalyzed aerosol clear. Google “2k aerosol clear“ and a 2 part clear will come up. You can find guys using it on YouTube as well.
Did you try using something like Back to Black?
Already tried that, it was like back to Gray. Wen't from chalk to Gray and lasted only a few days. The dealer body shop has a commercial product that works the same way, but better (according to them) It didn't do any better. Just left the body shop less than an hour ago.
Looks like I'm on my own locally. We don't have custom shops around here. I'm sure there must be one somewhere, but mostly the city is populated with collision repair shops. I didn't try MACO yet, but they are so far away, and I'm tired of trying to locate a shop to do this.
I'm going to get some of that Bulldog or similar adhesion promoter and matching color touchup paint in a rattle can.
I'll sand and clean the part first.
According to the almighty youtube however, all that's needed is plastic part primer (which I assume is adhesion promoter) and paint of your choice.
If you just want it to go back to trim color you can also try this stuff:
That's correct unless you want to remove the texture from the trim piece. To do that you'll need to prime it with 2k primer and sand the part smooth. If you do not remove the texture the clear coat will end up dying back some. Your part will end up looking similar to Toyota Tacoma bumpers and flares. May or may not be an issue with you.I think they make spray paints for plastic auto-part with a flex additive already mixed in. When I go shopping, I'll look for that too. According to the almighty youtube however, all that's needed is plastic part primer (which I assume e is adhesion promoter) and paint of your choice.
That's correct unless you want to remove the texture from the trim piece. To do that you'll need to prime it with 2k primer and sand the part smooth. If you do not remove the texture the clear coat will end up dying back some. Your part will end up looking similar to Toyota Tacoma bumpers and flares. May or may not be an issue with you.