No body shops will paint it in your area?
What are they so scared of?
What are they so scared of?
2010-2014 GT500 - How can I paint the Heat Extractor, Hood Insert?
- Thread starter crjackson
- Start date
Correct... I haven't found one yet.. Tried 3.
Couldn't I use a single stage paint? I expect delivery of the new insert today.
Yes you absolutely could. I would still use the adhesion promoter no matter what you decide.
Considering I'll have to use a rattle-can, there's no way to add a catalyst. Not sure how I would get around that.
Adhesion promoter is a decided deal. My plan is to scuff-up the surfaces as stated earlier, clean with either alcohol or a prep-solution, then paint with a quality single stage paint of matching color code.
A clear coat would be fine too, but I'm not sure about all that since I seem to need a catalyst to prevent yellowing.
I personally don’t like trim pieces painted like you want, but if that’s the look your going for you can get a catalyzed aerosol clear. Google “2k aerosol clear“ and a 2 part clear will come up. You can find guys using it on YouTube as well.
If you're using a single-stage paint do NOT clear it. Single-stage has the "clear" in the pigment... not really clear but it's a completely different paint system than two-stage paint. If you cleared a single-stage paint you'd have issues I'm sure.
Not to mention that paint (if it's a rattle can) will be a lacquer. It would take probably a month to actually harden before you could even try to paint something on top of it.... so you'd get bubbling (solvent pop).
For most trim I would agree. However, in the hood of a deep black car, chalked gray doesn’t make the grade. It’s not a good look for my car.
The plastic inserts on my original hood were painted to match and it looked great.
So that’s the goal. New part arrived just as we were posting.
Did you try using something like Back to Black?
Already tried that, it was like back to Gray. Wen't from chalk to Gray and lasted only a few days. The dealer body shop has a commercial product that works the same way, but better (according to them). However it didn't do any better. Just left the body shop less than an hour ago.
Looks like I'm on my own locally. We don't have custom shops around here. I'm sure there must be one somewhere, but mostly the city is populated with collision repair shops. I didn't try MACO yet, but they are so far away, and I'm tired of trying to locate a shop to do this.
I'm going to get some of that Bulldog or similar adhesion promoter and matching color touchup paint in a rattle can.
I'll sand and clean the part first.
Yes be sure to thoroughly thoroughly thoroughly clean the part, since you've already coated it with silicone a couple times. (the B to B type stuff)
I'm not sure how this bulldog stuff works. I have heard of it and have heard good things, but have never used it because it's not sold locally to me.
I use Dupli Color adhesion promoter. I mainly use it on model builds when I paint plastic or chrome parts in order to improve the paint sticking to the part. Adhesion promoter does exactly that; helps the paint stick to the part. The flex additive is to help the paint flex or expand while applied to parts that flex, like todays bumpers so the paint does not crack.
I don't think you will need flex additive, but the adhesion promoter on plastic is a must.
I use this and buy it from O'Reilly's. Works well for me. Not promoting it or anything. Just providing you options.
I use Dupli Color adhesion promoter. I mainly use it on model builds when I paint plastic or chrome parts in order to improve the paint sticking to the part. Adhesion promoter does exactly that; helps the paint stick to the part. The flex additive is to help the paint flex or expand while applied to parts that flex, like todays bumpers so the paint does not crack.
I don't think you will need flex additive, but the adhesion promoter on plastic is a must.
I use this and buy it from O'Reilly's. Works well for me. Not promoting it or anything. Just providing you options.
I think they make spray paints for plastic auto-part with a flex additive already mixed in. When I go shopping, I'll look for that too. According to the almighty youtube however, all that's needed is plastic part primer (which I assume e is adhesion promoter) and paint of your choice.
That is correct...….. Because for your application you are not applying it to a part that will be subject to impact, bending or flexing from my understanding.
Looks like a good treatment for my windshield wiper tray. I may give that a go for that part.
That's correct unless you want to remove the texture from the trim piece. To do that you'll need to prime it with 2k primer and sand the part smooth. If you do not remove the texture the clear coat will end up dying back some. Your part will end up looking similar to Toyota Tacoma bumpers and flares. May or may not be an issue with you.
I do plan to sand it, but it was mainly for scuffing up the surface to help with adhesion. I was planning on scuffing, applying adhesion promoter, spraying with 1 step paint (with flex additive if possible, without flex additive if I can't find any locally in a rattle can).
I don't have any expensive spray equipment, and I can't find a shop to do this. I physically went to 2 more shops today, and they both turned me down. With that in mind, I can only use products available to me in a spray can.
Yes... I want the best outcome, but no one around here wants to do the job, so I have to do this the best that I can.
I may consider sanding it smooth on the flat surfaces, can't I do that without the 2k primer, and just use the adhesion promoter and the 1 step paint coat?
Also, I'm not sure what you mean by looking like Toyota Tacoma bumpers/flares. I've never really payed them any attention.
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