Damn for 1500 plus the innovators west balancer that would buy a lot of stock caged lowers. I've read on here that the stock caged lower doesn't last long tho with the 3.4.
2003cobra#2's 3.4 Whipple Build
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The concern isn't the longevity of the stock lowers.. Its the concern is the crank snout snapping off.
1500 is cheaper than rebuilding a motor. Although pricey, worth it IMO.
1500 is cheaper than rebuilding a motor. Although pricey, worth it IMO.
Yeah I may end up getting one. Still on the fence about it. I'm on a 4# caged lower right now but haven't put my 3.4 on yet
Yes the concern with the stock lower is its longevity with the 3.4. That is why this is a good option. It shouldn't have those same failures.
The concern with the 3.4 is also hurting the crank without a snout support. That isn't what I was talking about though.
I'm ready to start on the fuel system. I'll be taking out the kenne bell bap, dropping the tank, installing 2 Walbro 465 pumps (high pressure), areomotive fuel regulator, 10an feed, 8an return, and wiring it up.
I have slightly less than half a tank of gas. What is a good way to drain the gas out and drop the tank. Any tips here?
I have slightly less than half a tank of gas. What is a good way to drain the gas out and drop the tank. Any tips here?
I had mine jacked up and drained it with gravity. One of those little $5 pumps with 2 tubes on the end. A little time consuming but gets it done
Where did you drain it from? I do plan on putting the rear of the car on jack stands.
I dropped mine a couple days ago and it had 3/4- full tank..
If you have a buddy to help I'd just drop it as is. If not, disconnect at the fuel rail and drain from there.
If you have a buddy to help I'd just drop it as is. If not, disconnect at the fuel rail and drain from there.
I actually dropped the take enough to take the filler neck out and drained it from the filler neck. Just used a transmission jack under the tank
One of these
I'll be doing this by myself. Any tips or things to watch out for?
Definitely look up the procedure for removing the factory pump hat! It'll save you the cost of a new fuel level sensor and float.
It's very tricky to do and the float arm needs removed before the pump hat is pulled out. The sensor is very delicate and will break if you just try to pull it off. There are good step by step instructions on here on doing it.
Ken
Most IMPORTANT.....Just like mentioned above BE CAREFUL WITH THE SENDER. pop off the arm before you take the assembly out..
Here are some tips in no particular order that may help that you probably already know.
-Make sure you disconnect all the harnesses/evap tubes
-take out the 3 bolts near the gas cap.
-use WD40 on the filler neck, it'll slide out much easier.
-make sure you have a one of those fuel line disconnect tools
-Support the tank with a 3ft-ish 2x4 or 2x6 before you start taking the straps down (3 13mm bolts)
-You can remove the "hinge: strap by popping out the pin that holds it in, it'll give you a little more room to work
-make sure there is no tension on the fuel line when disconnecting it, I made the mistake of having the tank on the ground while trying to get the line off and it was all binded up, soon as I released the tension it popped right off. Spent 15 minutes pissing with that LOL.
- When you are trying to remove the sender, again be VERY carful. Last time I did this I broke two of them trying to remove/install. I used a small screw driver and slightly pried the little clips that hold the housing to the metal bracket. Like barely pried. Make sure not to apply pressure ANYWHERE near the card.. it'll snap super easy. And then when you are putting it on your new hat, same thing.. barely pry those little mounting clips and apply slight pressure on the edge of the housing (NOT NEAR THE CARD).
I'd really recommend getting a second set of hands if possible. with 2 people its literally a 15 min job. Its just really awkward with one person. Most important thing again, BECAREFUL WITH THE SENDER.
LMAO wow I'm usually one to break stuff like that but I just left that sender on for removal and install, was just careful
How? I had to take it off the stock hat to put on the fore hat
I had to slightly chamfer the slots for the sending unit on my Fore hat. It just wouldn't go into position until I did that. Must have been left over flashing from the stamping or something.
Wait are you talking about the float thing for the gas gauge?
Yeah.. the float thing and associated card/housing.
I broke the card 2 times
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I broke the card 2 times
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Well that makes me feel good lol
Same here. Had to walk away a few times too before I broke something again.
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