18x9/10 and 18x9/10.5 w/ KDW2 tires question please

[MisterChrome]

This is what I've seen and learned through my research. CCW's and TF wheels have the perfect offset for these cars and won't hit the subframe bolt even without spacers. With the AFS 18x10.5 you can go a 335 tire like KDW2's, but from the other posts I guess I would stay away from them. I have heard that the Toyo R888's are the best gripping/cornering street tire out there. With a 10in rim, go with a 295, 10.5in rim, go 315 with the R888's. With one ISO in on the rear, you may want to get your fenders rolled no matter what. It's a cheap fix and it will save your expensive tires. For the 10.5in rim, you will need at least a 3/8" spacer and probably the low pro IRS bolt. A lot of people have done well with Lethals spacer and extended lug nut kit. about 90 bucks. I did not do well with that kit and the lug nuts were messing up my OEM studs. So I went out and bought the Moroso wheel studs and open ended lug nuts. I believe the part number for the studs was 46180. They will fit without drilling out the hub. If you just want to go out and buy just rims without having to modify anything else, stay away from the 10.5in rim and go for the 10in rim. As for the tires, i heard toyo R888's. I know a lot of extra info, but I hope it helped out a bit.

Thanks for the great knowledge. I am leaning towards the AFS 10.5 rim so I will look into the spacer, bolt, studs and fender rolling.

Thanks I love it! Only mod was rolling the fenders. Over 1" of clearance from the stock upper IRS bolt and they sit just about flush with the fenders. Kenny Brown springs in the rear with no isos. Had to put isos back in as it was too low

I bought low profile bolts but decided not to put them on after seeing the clearance. Ill sell them for less than the vendors charge if anyone wants them :beer:

I will keep you in mind for the bolts.

Go big or go home, 335 KDW II's FTW!

That is exactly the setup I am going for! Did you do all the spacer, bolt, studs and fender rolling mods?

 

[NJredfire03]

Thanks for the great knowledge. I am leaning towards the AFS 10.5 rim so I will look into the spacer, bolt, studs and fender rolling.



I will keep you in mind for the bolts.



That is exactly the setup I am going for! Did you do all the spacer, bolt, studs and fender rolling mods?

I've talked to him about his rims and tires, I know he has fenders rolled, low pro bolts, and most likely the spacer. I did the studs cause the extended lug nuts from lethal weren't cutting it. Studs and open ended lugnuts are pretty cheap and knowing that your wheel studs won't fail you in a time you need them not to fail is worth it

 

[MisterChrome]

I've talked to him about his rims and tires, I know he has fenders rolled, low pro bolts, and most likely the spacer. I did the studs cause the extended lug nuts from lethal weren't cutting it. Studs and open ended lugnuts are pretty cheap and knowing that your wheel studs won't fail you in a time you need them not to fail is worth it

Where would you recommend I get the Studs?

 

[NJredfire03]

Where would you recommend I get the Studs?

Moroso Rear Wheel Studs, 1979-04 Mustang, 5 pack [46180] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!


I've researched these studs and these will fit being careful getting them in with an air gun. the open ended lug nuts are on MM as well @ $.99 a piece.
I've also seen my friend install them with no problem.

 

[MisterChrome]

Thanks boss, I will look into it.

 

[MisterChrome]

OK, so finally AFS 18x10.5 and I came upon a set of 315/30 and 345/30 BFG DR, not KDW IIs. I really like this tire but to be honest I would like to avoid the need of a spacer or rolled fender. There is no way I can squeeze in those tires, right? How big can I go with Toyo R888 without needing to make modifications and do you guys use these tires for the rear only or all 4? How big can I go with KDW IIs front and rear without modding the car? Again, 18x9/10.5 AFS wheel, HR Race no ISOS in the Front and 1 set only in Rear

 

[Jefe]

295 MAX up front, I would stick with a 275 though. 335 will fit on those wheels but not the car without spacers or custom offset wheels. 345s are out, no way no how. I would also not run DRs on the front unless its a track car. Anything over 305 in the rear and lowered you will need to roll your fenders as well as spacers. KDWII is a rare tire that most run on all 4 corners because they last forever. Im sure some R888 guys run them on all 4 as well but you may want something that will last longer up front

You can get spacers for less than $60 shipped on eBay and im sure you can find someone with a fender roller near you. I borrowed one and did it for free on my own. If not, an alignment shop should do it for less than $80. I would rather pay that, then fork over $350+ each tire that gets cut by your fenders

 

[shurur]

Sounds like your suspension not your tires. I will agree they won't hold a ton of power on the straight line, they do grip very well in corners.

+1..best tires I ever had...super in rain..wish I could afford them again.

 

[SVT_Troy]

+1..best tires I ever had...super in rain..wish I could afford them again.

how many different performance oriented tires have you used to make that comment?

KDW's are noisy, and they dont hold decent power once they start to wear. I wouldn't know about grip in rain as I dont drive my car in any chance of rain nor would I even push it to find out its grip in the rain unless on a track. I'm sure they do have decent rain traction looking at the thread pattern though, just can't conform it. This has been my experience with them. I know a couple of people complain about excessive road noise once swithing to them. I want to try another tire for my next set of fronts. Had to sell my PS2's because i can only run a 265 up front with my new rims.

 

[MisterChrome]

I am just worried about getting my fenders rolled bc of the paint cracking. I have a Mystichrome and would HATE to have paint issues. I have also been advised too many times to not do spacers. Would I be able to just roll fenders and shaved IRS bolt?

 

[Jefe]

With a heat gun and taking your time, you shouldnt have any issues. Guys do this mod all the time and it is required on lowered cars with larger tires. The only way to know for sure is to get them on and see how much clearance you have. Or find someone with a similar setup and swap this weekend to check fitment

how many different performance oriented tires have you used to make that comment?

Well this is my 5th Mustang. Ive used F1s, NT555s, NT555Rs, NT05s, Falken RT615s, PS2s, F1 GS-D3s, and now these KDW2s. Favorite so far are the KDW2s

KDW's are noisy, and they dont hold decent power once they start to wear.

Great wet and dry traction, great fitment and they look so damn cool. My only complaint is the road noise but my Cobra and my stereo are louder so the positives far outweigh the one negative. Wet traction is really good. Car is firmly planted at 65mph on wet roads.

The price I paid for them may be the reason I like mine so much. Under $700 shipped for 275/35/18s and 335/30/18s. Gotta love ebay :rockon: Won them off a Viper SRT10 owner who wanted to use Run Flats instead. They only put 2k miles on them. Ive put about 6k on them. Still look like the day I bought them. Most guys see 20-30k miles which is not possible with any other performance tire Im aware of. I spin the rears all the time and tread still looks like the pic above. Without a doubt I will fork over $1200 for new ones if I cant get lucky on ebay again

 

[Jefe]

Here are two 335s for half price, tons of mileage left:

(2) Bf goodrich g force kdw 335/30/18 | eBay

From my experience, get a sidewall pictures of both sides of both tires. One of mine came warped on both sides and luckily Discount Tire warrantied it since they claimed it was a manufacturer error. Got a new one for $90

 

[svtaddict]

i agree falken 615s sucked my 315s had way less traction than what i have now and im running 295 kdw2s out back on a 10.5 afs i am very pleased with these

 

[MisterChrome]

295 MAX up front, I would stick with a 275 though. 335 will fit on those wheels but not the car without spacers or custom offset wheels. 345s are out, no way no how. I would also not run DRs on the front unless its a track car. Anything over 305 in the rear and lowered you will need to roll your fenders as well as spacers. KDWII is a rare tire that most run on all 4 corners because they last forever. Im sure some R888 guys run them on all 4 as well but you may want something that will last longer up front

You can get spacers for less than $60 shipped on eBay and im sure you can find someone with a fender roller near you. I borrowed one and did it for free on my own. If not, an alignment shop should do it for less than $80. I would rather pay that, then fork over $350+ each tire that gets cut by your fenders

Jefe,

So I have the AFS 18x9/10.5. I want to go with 275s up front (For the fronts would you go 275/35 or 275/40 on 18s?) and as big as possible in the rear without rolling fenders or shaved IRS. I am between the KDWIIs and the R888s, or even considering Nitto Invos. How big can I go without modding? Are R888s good for all four or just rears? Will I need to change studs, regardless? Sorry for asking the same question over and over but I have heard so many different versions that I do not know who to listen to but you sound the most informed. Again I have HR Race with one set of isos in the rear. I am currently running Nitto NT555R 315s and have had no rub issues. Thanks again man

 

[Jefe]

So I have the AFS 18x9/10.5. I want to go with 275s up front (For the fronts would you go 275/35 or 275/40 on 18s?)

Either will work. The 40 will be slightly taller but may ride better. Search 275/40/18 and 275/35/18 on this site and you can see the difference.

and as big as possible in the rear without rolling fenders or shaved IRS. How big can I go without modding?

Being lowered and having 10.5 wheels, pretty much every tire that would fit on that rim is going to require shaved IRS bolts, rolled fenders and possibly spacers. It all depends on which tire you go with and how much your rear suspension squats

Are R888s good for all four or just rears?

I have not run these tires but heard they are great. Dont think youll see more than 10k-15k miles out of a set though. Any of the tires you posted would be good on all 4 corners but it depends on how much street driving you do. Unless you enjoy paying $1200 every year for tires...

Will I need to change studs, regardless?

Stock studs should be fine unless you want to run slicks or spacers. Hubcentric/Lugcentric spacers provide new studs

I am currently running Nitto NT555R 315s and have had no rub issues. Thanks again man

You have no rubbing issues because you are still on 9" wheels. When you put the 10.5" wheels on it will be closer if not too close to the IRS. The spacer/shaved bolts give you the clearance away from the IRS but you are still right on the edge of the sharp fender lip. Notice my pic above how the tire is just below the fender line. Your 9" wheels with 315s still tucks in away from the fender

 

[IA Shelby]

315's on a 9 inch wheel is way outside of recommended specs. 275 is the max width that should be used on a 9 inch wheel.

 

[MisterChrome]

Either will work. The 40 will be slightly taller but may ride better. Search 275/40/18 and 275/35/18 on this site and you can see the difference.

Being lowered and having 10.5 wheels, pretty much every tire that would fit on that rim is going to require shaved IRS bolts, rolled fenders and possibly spacers. It all depends on which tire you go with and how much your rear suspension squats

I have not run these tires but heard they are great. Dont think youll see more than 10k-15k miles out of a set though. Any of the tires you posted would be good on all 4 corners but it depends on how much street driving you do. Unless you enjoy paying $1200 every year for tires...
Stock studs should be fine unless you want to run slicks or spacers. Hubcentric/Lugcentric spacers provide new studs

You have no rubbing issues because you are still on 9" wheels. When you put the 10.5" wheels on it will be closer if not too close to the IRS. The spacer/shaved bolts give you the clearance away from the IRS but you are still right on the edge of the sharp fender lip. Notice my pic above how the tire is just below the fender line. Your 9" wheels with 315s still tucks in away from the fender

Jefe, you are the man. Thanks bro :beer:

 

[MisterChrome]

315's on a 9 inch wheel is way outside of recommended specs. 275 is the max width that should be used on a 9 inch wheel.

That may be correct but I have seen many factory 9s with this tire. They do run small so that is probably why it is not bad. I've had it like this for years

 

[SVTDice]

I have 295 KDW's and On a hot day they can dead hook in 2nd. Colder day not so much. But I don't have any problems with them. I think when these go I'm going with either 335 KDWII's or BFG KDW DR's.

I'm not sure to be honest. But either way I'm happy with the KDW's.