13/14 GT500 hook me up

[HOSTIL]

I've looked through page after page looking for 13/14 GT500 owners that see alittle weekend drag strip duty . Very interested in what suspension mods were done, which ones work to help plant the power on this beast? Not planing on adding any power mods until I figure out how to make that best use of the power the 500 already has.

My car will be used more as a sunny day cruiser with trips to the local car shows and drag strip every so often. I would also like to be able to lay into the car on the street and have traction, so I'm thinking a MT DR, 3.90 gear , UCA,LCA, air bags??? Thanks

 

[Clemson]

Control arms and tires is on the right path. Bags......ugh.

 

[ZYBORG]

Control arms and tires is on the right path. Bags......ugh.

Ditto.

Also, drag springs wouldnt hurt along with the parharn bar.

 

[gimmie11s]

Air bags were used back in the day by the Buick GN guys an any other serious drag racer who had coil rear suspension. Was a good question by OP and I would suggest he give it a shot and reply back. It's not a common mod on the Shelby cars but who knows? Could be worth a try.

 

[ZYBORG]

Air bags were used back in the day by the Buick GN guys an any other serious drag racer who had coil rear suspension. Was a good question by OP and I would suggest he give it a shot and reply back. It's not a common mod on the Shelby cars but who knows? Could be worth a try.

Or try some vikings....

 

[gimmie11s]

Agree there are probably better tools for the job but at almost $200 a pop the Vikings are a pretty penny.

A set of airbags used to be $50.

Yeah.. its the cheap ass in me coming out.

 

[ZYBORG]

Nothing wrong with budget that works...

 

[HOSTIL]

Thanks for the replies. I used a bag in my 04 Cobra and it worked, so when you dont know...; you kinda dig down deep in the bag and go with what you know??? Second........ I have MAD LOVE for GN's and Turbo Regals!!! I'm old school . Still looking for that guy/girl that has experienced draggin 13/14 GT500's cars and what mods it took to get it to hook!

 

[hostile500]

A good set of Drag Radials and Lower Control Arms are going to make a huge difference. I am running 4:10 gears and its way to much for these kind of cars. Stay around the 3:73-3:55 range and you should still be able to have a 1-2 usable gear. As other have said get a good set of viking shocks and drag springs. Stay away from air bags if you are going to race it.

 

[HOSTIL]

4:10 gears too much??? I thinking the 3:90 gear? I really liked it in my Whipple 04 Cobra. Middle of the road, not the 4:10's and a little more than the 3:73's and I plan to run 18x11's in the rear. I'll take another look at the 3:73's Also, will look at the Viking Shocks. How did your car perform after the blower port? Was it worth it? Or would you have gone with a 3.6 KB or similar? Thanks

 

[Logan@Lethal]

Start with the basics, control arms (lower and upper). Move then onto shocks. All of these mods need a tire. Report back after this to continue the mods. I paid all of this with BMR springs.
I can get you a combo package going!

 

[hostile500]

4:10 gears too much??? I thinking the 3:90 gear? I really liked it in my Whipple 04 Cobra. Middle of the road, not the 4:10's and a little more than the 3:73's and I plan to run 18x11's in the rear. I'll take another look at the 3:73's Also, will look at the Viking Shocks. How did your car perform after the blower port? Was it worth it? Or would you have gone with a 3.6 KB or similar? Thanks

I am running 18x11" rears with NT05Rs and on the track it still spins off the line hard. I am going back to a 3:55s. Doing the porting on the blower the torque went through the roof. I love it and it really wasnt that bad to do. But I guess it all depends what your end goal is going to be for power.

 

[ZYBORG]

I am running 18x11" rears with NT05Rs and on the track it still spins off the line hard. I am going back to a 3:55s. Doing the porting on the blower the torque went through the roof. I love it and it really wasnt that bad to do. But I guess it all depends what your end goal is going to be for power.

Lets see some pics of that rear wheel/tire set up!

 

[hostile500]

Lets see some pics of that rear wheel/tire set up!

Here are a couple pics of the rear wheel and tire setup i am running. I will get photos on the car for you later this afternoon.

 

[PaxtonShelby]

Paging J....paging J...

 

[COOL COBRA]

Toyo 888's. Even in stock size do wonders on the street.
DR's are nice but are kind of a one-trick pony.

 

[Bearbo]

Are the Vikings that good? Like so much better than stock and everything out there.

 

[RBB]

UCA, LCA, panhard bar and LCA relocation brackets are a good start. I've since added some Vikings, BMR drag springs and an anti roll bar. Put a sticky drag radial on there (NT05, ET Street) and you'll have something that performs nicely on the street and at the strip. That setup has me running 10s on a stock bottom end/TVS combo.

 

[biminiLX]

No way 4.10s are too much. It's called math, you want to trap at or just after your power peak.
My car ran better with 4.10s than 3.73s because it trapped higher and our cams peak about 66-6800rpm.
I basically use my car as you describe, local shows, cruising, drag strip a few times a year.
First, if you can run a bias ply tire, use it. There are non-DOT slicks in 17" (Hoosier and M&H) and 18" (M&H).
ET STREET R is the only DOT bias ply at 28x11.5x17.
Darkstars in 17/18" both fit.
After tires and gears, a tune with clutch protection off is a must have. Try to drag on the stock gears and sticky tires, your stock clutch WILL fail. My stock clutch on 4.10s looked mint.
If you can't hook 4.10s and NT05Rs (you need low air pressure 14-15psi and long burnout) your track prep might not be great and it's another reason for bias plys.
BMR GT500 specific drag springs, LCA/UCA, and stiff rear sway bar vs ARB.
For reference, I went [email protected] with a 1.76 60' on nothing but 4.10s, Lund tune, 20" Alcoas with NT05R. Otherwise stock to the filter.
These are tricky cars to drag, but if you have good track prep and a good DA, you can still have fun with minimal mods. Gears to save the clutch and tune to save your sanity by disabling clutch protection are the only real must haves beside tires.
Have fun, good luck.
-J

 

[hostile500]

No way 4.10s are too much. It's called math, you want to trap at or just after your power peak.
My car ran better with 4.10s than 3.73s because it trapped higher and our cams peak about 66-6800rpm.
I basically use my car as you describe, local shows, cruising, drag strip a few times a year.
First, if you can run a bias ply tire, use it. There are non-DOT slicks in 17" (Hoosier and M&H) and 18" (M&H).
ET STREET R is the only DOT bias ply at 28x11.5x17.
Darkstars in 17/18" both fit.
After tires and gears, a tune with clutch protection off is a must have. Try to drag on the stock gears and sticky tires, your stock clutch WILL fail. My stock clutch on 4.10s looked mint.
If you can't hook 4.10s and NT05Rs (you need low air pressure 14-15psi and long burnout) your track prep might not be great and it's another reason for bias plys.
-J

Our track prep is horrible here in NH. It was only like 47-50 degrees the night I ran and had the tires set at 18psi. Burnout wasn't super long but I definitely thought it was enough, maybe not. Out of the hole it comes off the line and just blows the tires off, shift to second and have to ease into it. Track was at the point where I would shift into fourth and it would break loose. Maybe it's the driver trying to get into the throttle to quick I'm not sure. But like you said before, after these tires are gone I'm buying bias plys!!!!


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