Good. Do that before giving up the gear.
-J
-J
Good advice from bimini and lexus. To add on to lexus's post, I meant to mention that you should just forget about the poly bushings. The added NVH with rod ends and/or bearings is negligible, IMO. Go with rod ends on your LCAs and get BMR's Ultimate UCA with the spherical bearing.You will absolutely need LCA relo brackets. Rear suspension geometry in these cars are a joke from the factory for drag racing. You will just spin and spin even with prep if your suspension isnt planting the power to the part of the tire contacting the surface.
If you go with poly urethane bushing LCAs, buy a few replacement sets of bushings. They WILL blow out on you eventually. Rod end adjustable arms with create a bit more noise street driving, but they are worth their weight in gold for what they do on the track.
I give another +1 to Viking Warrior DA rear shocks. You wont need air bags with those. Worth every penny they ask for. Obviously you will lose your on board bilstiens, but the Vikings are worlds better for the track.
Drag radials are great for roll racing and auto drag cars. They will kill axles in manual cars. I bent 3 in mine on them. I just switched to bias plys. I havent even tapped into their full abilities to launch a stick car but I love my Hoosiers... only brand ill buy for the track.
I know the Trinity Shelbys were designed for 200 mph certification, but if you want to drag race, 4.10s are the bee's knees! Frankly, I think they are the perfect gears for the GT500. 13-14 needed a tall as rear gear for that 200mph cert. Real world and drag racing? 4.10's All. Day. Long. Wish I would have swapped soon to be honest.