Can it be done? I currently have a KB2.8H with Behemoth inlet cams E85 all supported mods ect. Long block is stock other than cams. I want the car to run high 5’s 1/8th mile. What’s it gonna take and can it be done with this blower.
1000whp with blower what’s it take
- Thread starter maxrider
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You do not need anywhere near 1000hp to run high 5's in the 1/8.
With that being said, you can probably make that kind of power but it would require high compression, headwork etc. It would be a full effort build with no detail overlooked. It can probably be done with the 2.8, but would be easier with a larger displacement 2.9 or 3.4. Either way your crank pulley is going to be struggling.
--Joe
With that being said, you can probably make that kind of power but it would require high compression, headwork etc. It would be a full effort build with no detail overlooked. It can probably be done with the 2.8, but would be easier with a larger displacement 2.9 or 3.4. Either way your crank pulley is going to be struggling.
--Joe
As I have said before the only TS guys I have seen do it are 9.5 and higher and a friendly dyno. E85, Custom Cams, heads to the hill, cooling and lots a boost.
Another much easier option is 5.4L/5.8L ported GT500/GT heads, cams, and a 3+L blower and you are easily there.
Another much easier option is 5.4L/5.8L ported GT500/GT heads, cams, and a 3+L blower and you are easily there.
Yea but then you may as well go push rod motor and be tons easier to work on. I think I’m gonna buy me a different car to play with and leave this one like it is. I hate to ruin such a nice cobra.
That is why I have an 87 Foxbody getting a 351w and TT.
so I talked to my tuner two weeks ago. And he made sense. I spoke to him about the GT500 heads, more power, etc etc yada yada. He said to me, half of you guys aren't seriously racing or chasing a number at the track. To push the car to squeeze every single second out of it. so all the stroker motors, modifying the motor to accpet GT500 heads, custom this that, on the street? does it really matter? No. Just throwin $$.
If you want to get competitive, turbo is the answer. 1000rwhp I would go turbo hands down. If you want to stay twin screw and you race hard core and really are chasing that number, then I would go with a big 3+ L blower, built motor with high compression, e85, custom cams, custom everything. But in the end, turbos is the way to go.
While I agree 100% this is saying you can only have a fast car if you are racing it. I don't care one bit to drive the cars. I love the build. It is just money. I work hard for it so I should be able to spend it. Also I save tons since I do 99% of the work myself. I don't chase numbers I chase uniqueness.
You got a thread on your fox somewhere? Sounds sweet.
I do somewhere. Problem is we rolled it out. Stripped it down. Primered it. Was going to paint it the next weekend and ended up buying the 3.6L for my Cobra and never got back to the Fox. Just sitting there with the engine in front of it. Primed and ready for paint.
OP it's a double edged sword when you push our cobra motors to such high HP with a blower. You need compression to push the HP that high. I'm talking 10.5 +. Once you have the compression the throttle response is incredible. The RPMs wrap up and down so violently. This means lower pulley problems trying to spin up and down big blowers so rapidly and violently.
My 2.9 Whipple was destroying the lower pulley assemblies every 400 miles. I've had others tell me theirs was way worse.
You can ditch the factory lower assembly all together and go with an Innovators West damper and metco ring. You risk snapping off the crank snout. Google it, people have done it.
You can stud the crank. Drill out the center and put in a modified head stud. It's a PITA project (I've done mine) and making custom damper install/remove tools sucks too. It's debatable as to how well this really even works. I've seen at least one car snap the crank snout that was studded. Possibly a one off but it's unclear.
You can go high compression, ditch the factory lower in favor of the IW damper and metco ring and use a smaller blower that's much less likely to snap off your crank. Like a 2.3 blower. That's my current setup.
You can ditch the blower and go turbo. I have avoided this route as I have several other turbo cars and enjoy having at least one blower car.
My 2.9 Whipple was destroying the lower pulley assemblies every 400 miles. I've had others tell me theirs was way worse.
You can ditch the factory lower assembly all together and go with an Innovators West damper and metco ring. You risk snapping off the crank snout. Google it, people have done it.
You can stud the crank. Drill out the center and put in a modified head stud. It's a PITA project (I've done mine) and making custom damper install/remove tools sucks too. It's debatable as to how well this really even works. I've seen at least one car snap the crank snout that was studded. Possibly a one off but it's unclear.
You can go high compression, ditch the factory lower in favor of the IW damper and metco ring and use a smaller blower that's much less likely to snap off your crank. Like a 2.3 blower. That's my current setup.
You can ditch the blower and go turbo. I have avoided this route as I have several other turbo cars and enjoy having at least one blower car.
An auto is going to be easier with less violent RPM swings for sure. All the auto 03/04s I've tuned have been on stock CR or turbo cars so not sure how long a high CR big blower car would actually last with the auto.
I have a 8.5.1 comp aluminator 4.6. with a 3.4l whipple and mag t-56. Sock lower and I want to put on a 3.5 pulley on it. I shouldn't fear that should I ?.
I do plan on 4krpm 2-step running radials so not a dump more of a feather.
I do plan on 4krpm 2-step running radials so not a dump more of a feather.
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Lol everyone’s worried now!
Probably fine. Way to many variables, including how the car's driven, to give a specific answer. 9.5 is not bad.
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