02 sensor question

[Solo500]

I installed mil eliminators when I put my new midpipe. They did a good job keeping the check engine light from coming up, but it recently came up shortly after I installed my headers. It was a tight fit getting one of the 02 sensors to fit and it's right up against the transmission. I figure that the heat from the transmission ruined it. Is there any aftermarket 02 sensors that are slightly smaller, even by a cm? I would really hate to cut and weld in order to get them to work.

 

[cobrasvtcoupe25]

You have JBA Shorties right?

 

[Solo500]

Yes I do.

 

[99lightning_svt]

i have some mil eliminators if you need them, I'm not sure what your asking.

 

[Un4GivN]

i have some mil eliminators if you need them, I'm not sure what your asking.

He's asking if any aftermarket companies make an o2 sensor that's shorter in length than OEM so they won't rub on the transmission.

What code is the car throwing? My CEL light didn't come on for 750 miles after I removed the cats. It's very possible that nothing is wrong with the o2 sensor itself. My MIL eliminators didn't work on my last mustang.

 

[Solo500]

I don't have a tuner... I put the odometer in test mode and looked online for any codes that matched but I couldn't find anything. What would the code look like?

I don't put very many miles on my car. From what you're saying I'm thinking the mil emilinators could have never worked to begin with and the light didn't come on coincidently until after I installed the headers. Don't know what to do. :shrug:

 

[Un4GivN]

I don't have a tuner... I put the odometer in test mode and looked online for any codes that matched but I couldn't find anything. What would the code look like?

I don't put very many miles on my car. From what you're saying I'm thinking the mil emilinators could have never worked to begin with and the light didn't come on coincidently until after I installed the headers. Don't know what to do. :shrug:

Go to autozone or similar parts store and have them pull the codes for you. I'm not sure if they'll be able to tell you what they are or not, but someone here will chime in. That was my point, nothing looks damaged on that o2 sensor/wiring so I think the MIL's aren't working. I traded my old stang in for the Cobra before I had a chance to figure out why they didn't work.

 

[Solo500]

I went to autozone and they said it showed up as 4 faulty O2 sensors... and another code saying something about the canister purge solenoid.

Dumb mistake by me but I originally put the mils in the front O2s and when the light came on a little later I checked them and then put them in the rear. Autozone told me that if the front ones are out I should know by driving it but the idle and performance seem fine, but it does smell pretty strong. I reset my battery twice and it only goes off for a few miles, is it possible the O2s are working but the code is stored?

Any recommendations on what I should do? Should I buy a tuner, take it to a shop? I just want my snake to run fine and also want that damn light to go away!

 

[K2AHollywood]

I went to autozone and they said it showed up as 4 faulty O2 sensors... and another code saying something about the canister purge solenoid.

Dumb mistake by me but I originally put the mils in the front O2s and when the light came on a little later I checked them and then put them in the rear. Autozone told me that if the front ones are out I should know by driving it but the idle and performance seem fine, but it does smell pretty strong. I reset my battery twice and it only goes off for a few miles, is it possible the O2s are working but the code is stored?

Any recommendations on what I should do? Should I buy a tuner, take it to a shop? I just want my snake to run fine and also want that damn light to go away!

I would be hesitant against making O2 diagnosis via smell. Without cats, that gas or rich smell is always going to be more prominate. How long do you do the reset for?

 

[Solo500]

Reset was at least 10 hours. I took the battery off and left it off overnight.

 

[Un4GivN]

If you spliced into the upstream o2 sensors to begin with, you may not have them securely rewired causing the fault codes for those sensors. Like I said before, when I installed my MIL eliminators on my last mustang, they didn't work. Car threw codes for both downstream sensors afterward. Recheck the wiring/splicing you did to put the upstream sensors back together, if they seem fine, replace those 2 sensors and just get the rears turned off in a tune.

 

[Nazman]

First off,

Do not cut the O2 sensor wires. It will ruin the sensor.

The MIL eliminators go in the rear O2s as you found out.

The front and rear O2s are diferent.

I seen several cars where the MIL did not worked. Best way is to turn them off on the tune and also turn the heater on the rears since they will throw a MIL by its own.

The car can still run near stock like with bad O2s. The factory EEC has a 25% error factor, and when it can not read feedback of the O2s it will go into "pre-set" factory settings and learned settings and run near stock.

Fuel economy and overall power production will suffer, but depending on the EEC strategy, will run fine at idle and partial trottle up to ~4500RPMs, and WOT will go based on MAF curve, and commanded AF since the O2s are not utilized in WOT mode.

Just get new O2s, dont worry about the rear ones, just get them turned off in the tune.

Check for proper installation of the MIL sensors. They go harness-MIL Eliminators-O2 sensor.

Naz