01 GT with 4V swap, 76mm Billet precision build

B0B

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,159
Location
South Prairie, WA
got a few things done today. wired up my fuel pump and pump speed controller

IMAG0085.jpg


IMAG0086.jpg


put my clutch on

IMAG0087.jpg


IMAG0088.jpg


here's a better look at the hotside

IMAG0093.jpg


IMAG0092.jpg


IMAG0091.jpg


IMAG0090.jpg
 

f2hatch

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
3,485
Location
CT
Great build cant wait to see it all done. Are you happy with the CG Fab headers and hot side? I was going make my own but I have been thinking for the price of his I might as well just buy them. They look like nice quality.
 

B0B

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,159
Location
South Prairie, WA
Great build cant wait to see it all done. Are you happy with the CG Fab headers and hot side? I was going make my own but I have been thinking for the price of his I might as well just buy them. They look like nice quality.


well heres what i did. i bought the CG fab headers and got them and checked them out. i was going to go with his hotside but after getting the headers i decided to buy a tig welder and do it myself. after 2 weeks of practice, i got my hotside done and it looks almost as good as the headers. So, yes the headers are of good quality, but i guarantee if he was building them for his own car he would have done a better job. so everything except the headers i'm fabbing myself.
 

Entrenched

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
May 25, 2010
Messages
998
Location
Mandeville, LA
well heres what i did. i bought the CG fab headers and got them and checked them out. i was going to go with his hotside but after getting the headers i decided to buy a tig welder and do it myself. after 2 weeks of practice, i got my hotside done and it looks almost as good as the headers. So, yes the headers are of good quality, but i guarantee if he was building them for his own car he would have done a better job. so everything except the headers i'm fabbing myself.

So would you recommend them, or would you recommend just getting it done custom?
 

B0B

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,159
Location
South Prairie, WA
So would you recommend them, or would you recommend just getting it done custom?

i would recommend them. its a good product for a fair price. could you get better ones? yes, but it would probably cost more. i'm happy with mine. just not thrilled into raving about them
 

f2hatch

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
3,485
Location
CT
I was planning on just getting the headers not the whole hot side.
 

B0B

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,159
Location
South Prairie, WA
got my inner fender panels welded in and smoothed out. engine bay is primed, i need to go over it one more time and sand. then final prime and paint.

IMAG0094.jpg


IMAG0095.jpg
 

B0B

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,159
Location
South Prairie, WA
got my new rear wheels and tires put on. 18x10 with a nitto 305/35/18 drag radial.

IMAG0096.jpg


after a long discussion with my dad, i decided to try rattle canning my engine bay. i have all the supplies to do a proper job with a spray gun and REAL paint, but i've never used it and i've never painted anything with it before. i have an air dryer that i need to hook up and i have to buy some paint and supplies. so, after listening to my dad bitch about it being "just and engine bay," i rattle canned it. NOPE!! not good enough, it looks decent. **** decent. i'm going to sand it back down and start over. it will be perfect, nothing less. plus i don't like the gloss look in the engine bay. i'm gonna do my paint code (black - UA) and not do clear over it, just like factory.

IMAG0099.jpg


IMAG0098.jpg


IMAG0097.jpg
 

f2hatch

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 11, 2007
Messages
3,485
Location
CT
Just because Your paint code is UA doesn't mean the paint wont be shiny. You can get that code in either a base/clear or single stage both will be glossy unless you just spray the base no clear. that's not a good idea imo. If you are worried about how it will come get single stage the clear is mixed in so you will have only 2 and half coats not 5 coats. Less chance of a run. less time and money also. very easy just on your first coat very light tacky coat then 2 coats for coverage and done.
 

Daron

Mean01
Established Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
271
Location
Seattle
this is absolutely beautiful. What a build ! Honestly havent seen a new edge cobra with a shaved engine bay in person ever. since were neighbors
 

B0B

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,159
Location
South Prairie, WA
Just because Your paint code is UA doesn't mean the paint wont be shiny. You can get that code in either a base/clear or single stage both will be glossy unless you just spray the base no clear. that's not a good idea imo. If you are worried about how it will come get single stage the clear is mixed in so you will have only 2 and half coats not 5 coats. Less chance of a run. less time and money also. very easy just on your first coat very light tacky coat then 2 coats for coverage and done.

thanks a lot man i'll do that. I've never done any painting before so i'll take any input i can.
 

B0B

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,159
Location
South Prairie, WA
this is absolutely beautiful. What a build ! Honestly havent seen a new edge cobra with a shaved engine bay in person ever. since were neighbors

thanks man! I'm excited to get it done, I'm gonna have Andy down at TMS tune it for me. and i'm getting the suspension tuned at Trueline performance in Bellevue. they do race car suspension and chassis'. that MM stuff is so adjustable its ridiculous. so i'll have to get the bumpsteer worked out and get it aligned.
 

Amazongt

AKA maxstang AKA max97v6
Established Member
Joined
Jun 5, 2008
Messages
617
Location
Orem UT
Just because Your paint code is UA doesn't mean the paint wont be shiny. You can get that code in either a base/clear or single stage both will be glossy unless you just spray the base no clear. that's not a good idea imo. If you are worried about how it will come get single stage the clear is mixed in so you will have only 2 and half coats not 5 coats. Less chance of a run. less time and money also. very easy just on your first coat very light tacky coat then 2 coats for coverage and done.

I wouldnt say theres less of a chance of runs in single stage... specially in the engine bay with all the angles and sharp edges. Theres just as much of a chance of two wet coats of single stage running as there is of two wet coats of clear. Ive had my fair share of sags from milking single stage on to try and make it look as nice as base/clear. The deciding factor should be cost. If you want cheap and glossy, then single stage. If you want it to look nice and can spend a little more then I would go with base/clear. Since its your engine bay and you said you didnt want it glossy, I would mix 10% clear hardener into your base coat. It will leave the paint with the correct factory under hood shine and prevent light scratches.

BTW. Im planning on ordering an RSD and door panels from Scottfab in the next couple of weeks-month. How long did it take for your panels to get delivered and was the shipping expensive?
 

B0B

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Apr 27, 2009
Messages
1,159
Location
South Prairie, WA
I wouldnt say theres less of a chance of runs in single stage... specially in the engine bay with all the angles and sharp edges. Theres just as much of a chance of two wet coats of single stage running as there is of two wet coats of clear. Ive had my fair share of sags from milking single stage on to try and make it look as nice as base/clear. The deciding factor should be cost. If you want cheap and glossy, then single stage. If you want it to look nice and can spend a little more then I would go with base/clear. Since its your engine bay and you said you didnt want it glossy, I would mix 10% clear hardener into your base coat. It will leave the paint with the correct factory under hood shine and prevent light scratches.

BTW. Im planning on ordering an RSD and door panels from Scottfab in the next couple of weeks-month. How long did it take for your panels to get delivered and was the shipping expensive?

thanks for the info! the fender panels were delivered within two weeks and shipping was cheap. i can't remember the exact price but it was nothing to cringe about. door panels will probably cost a little more cause they're quite a bit bigger
 

Blwn02

New Member
Established Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
19
Location
IL
im doing this same build pretty much except mine is an 02gt with th400 swap and hellion kit. Ill make a build thread when i get closer!
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top