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Yup. Every time I'm at the track. --Joe

No design change, all the lower intakes are the same. --Joe

What......who knows? Why.......because anyone that plugs a vacuum line with what looks like RTV and some screws is a hack and I'm going to go out on a limb and assume the same quality of work has been performed on other aspects of the car. --Joe

If this is on the car, I'm sure there are a bunch of other issues too. --Joe

You will see no gains at all from the porting if you are using pump gas and running 18#. Use ethanol and spin it to 25-30# and you will see the gains. --Joe

Sounds like you want to go faster without spending any money :censored: --Joe

You looking for a full set to use in a build? Or is this for some collector stuff etc? Good condition or damaged? --Joe

The Fel-Pro's have been a known issue for years. I've never had issues with the Ford gaskets. --Joe

Neither, it is measured where the sensor is located. Sounds like you have a 90mm housing. --Joe

Yes I ran it unported, I picked up 2 tenths with the port work and it absolutely hit hard, best 60' was 1.22. Car was never on the dyno though just street/track tuned. --Joe

That would be me, however my car is no where near 1000whp, it was just a stock engine. I recently sold my ported 2.3 though, someone else is enjoying it now! --Joe

I would bet you won't even max out a 2.3 or a 2.65, so why worry about buying a 3.1? --Joe

I mean, you're not wrong :) I appreciate your point, but there is a market for the larger injectors on the stock ECU. Even though the injectors are more expensive, they are a direct swap that can be done in a half hour and you are back up and running, versus a swap that not too many people...

First off, the rule of 'buy once, cry once' definitely applies here. Why upgrade to 1300's when you know you will be over 90% duty cycle right off the bat.....leave yourself headroom. Secondly, the prices listed are insane, 1700's can be bought for way cheaper. Lastly, when you are using good...

The best way to do it is to start a datalog with KOEO and adjust accordingly. This of course assumes you have kept the FRPS in place. --Joe

If you are not using ice (like the OP) then the best routing is from tank to HE to IC core as that will put the coldest fluid directly into the core. When not using ice the coldest fluid temp are directly out of the HE. The way you recommend to route the fluid will pickup a bunch of heat...

"Good" is subjective. Oh well, good luck with the sale. --Joe

I can not remove or install my 400 without removing the passenger header, driver side I can leave in place. --Joe

It's not like a manual trans. The bolts for the bell are behind the converter.....and you can't remove the converter unless you drop the trans. --Joe

Radiator fan has nothing to do with IAT2's. My bet is your 20 year old core is tired and flow is seriously reduced. Got a video of the return flow into the tank? --Joe

Good plan. eBay prices are a little out of control. Stock bore Teksid's are normally $4-500. --Joe

Since it is already 20 over........$250 +/- --Joe

No, bilge pumps suck once there is pressure against them, these are OEM engine coolant pumps. Top few would be Pierburg CWA 400 (BMW) and Motorcraft PW 544 or PW 611 (Ford). --Joe

That is not true at all, several pumps flow more than an EMP. --Joe

Whipple sells a crusher intake and it is everything you need from filter up to the throttle body. --Joe