BAP/Wiring Upgrade Installation Directions

[93SVT#18]

holy double post

 

[FEARLE5S]

Does anyone have updated instructions to work with the lethal bap. These wires are not quite the same. There is no fused and un fused wire. Both are red and have no fuses. Asuming that the larger red wire should be the fused wire?

+ 1 mine has one blue one red

 

[IronTerp]

Does anyone have updated instructions to work with the lethal bap. These wires are not quite the same. There is no fused and un fused wire. Both are red and have no fuses. Asuming that the larger red wire should be the fused wire?

Hmmmm....was unaware of this. The instructions on the first post of this thread, "were" the ones that Lethal included in their wire upgrade kits. How do they address this issue in the directions they sent with their own BAP?

 

[black03]

Hmmmm....was unaware of this. The instructions on the first post of this thread, "were" the ones that Lethal included in their wire upgrade kits. How do they address this issue in the directions they sent with their own BAP?

For our XXXtreme Pump Booster there are 3 wires. Ground which has a terminal ring on it, Power to the unit-the (Larger Red Wire) and the power coming out of the unit which is regulated (Smaller Red Wire)

Using that info just follow the rest of the BAP Rewire install and you shouldn't have any issues getting it set up properly.

Hope that helps. Jared

Thanks again IronTerp for putting those instructions together! :beer:

 

[FEARLE5S]

im having a problem installing the KB BAP. i dont understand wat it means by "Connect the Non-fused Red wire form the BAP to the Green/Yellow wire from the connector side of the FPDM." does this mean connect the NONfused cable to the same green/yellow wire from the FPDM as the one that connects from the relay?

i have evrything else connected. just rite now it keeps on poping the 30amp fuse from the BAP

 

[black03]

im having a problem installing the KB BAP. i dont understand wat it means by "Connect the Non-fused Red wire form the BAP to the Green/Yellow wire from the connector side of the FPDM." does this mean connect the NONfused cable to the same green/yellow wire from the FPDM as the one that connects from the relay?

i have evrything else connected. just rite now it keeps on poping the 30amp fuse from the BAP

To keep it real simple. Connect the non-fused wire on the bap to the green/yellow wire going into the FPDM. Then connect the wire coming from Pin 86 on the relay harness to the green/yellow wire going away from the FPDM.


That should do it.. Jared

 

[FEARLE5S]

omg thanks after reading it over and over i finaly understood wat its sayn... thanks jared.

 

[FEARLE5S]

was bored at work so I drew this up before i installed my BAP. hope it helps some of u guys.

 

[SVTkel]

Subscribing

 

[03cobramanIII]

There still appears to be some general confusion on installation of the Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump when in conjunction with the Lethal Performance wiring upgrade. Below are step-by-step instructions for this install.

2003/2004 MUSTANG COBRA
BAP and Wiring Upgrade Step-by-Step Instructions
VERIFY COLOR OF WIRE ON PLUG WITH PIN NUMBERS ON RELAY ​

1) Remove driver’s side and rear felt insulation panels from inside the truck area.

2) Decide on location in the trunk for mounting of BAP, Boost Controller, and Wiring Upgrade Adapter Plug, but do not mount them at this time. (The BAP should be located within 8" or so of the FPDM and the Adapter Plug is commonly attached to the lower mounting bolt of the FPDM. Some like to mount the Boost Controller inside the cabin, but the majority locate it in the trunk. Your choice.)

Example of Common Mounting Points for BAP, Boost Controller, & Adapter Plug ​

3) On a suitable work area, attach the ring terminal lugs to the BAP grounding wire (Black) and the Wiring Upgrade Adapter Plug grounding (Blue or White) wire (PIN 85).

4) In the same work area, solder and shrink wrap the red 30amp fused wire from the BAP to the (Black or Blue) wire from the Wiring Upgrade Adapter Plug (PIN 30).

5) To have your BAP run full time, (the most common application), take the red and black wires which are inside of the BAP’s other Black wire and solder and shrink wrap them together. This wire is approximately 16' long and you can cut this to 6-8" before soldering.

6) Disconnect negative terminal at battery.

7) In the trunk of your Terminator, disconnect the harness plug that goes into the FPDM and peel back the tape and loom on the harness for approximately 8". Locate the Green/Yellow wire in the harness and cut this wire so that you have equal length of it on both ends. (This is for attaching the BAP before the FPDM! To attach it after the FPDM, you will need to locate and cut the Brown/Pink wire.)

Fuel Pump Driver Module & Harness ​

8) Mount the BAP, Boost Controller, and Wiring Upgrade Adapter Plug to the locations you decided upon in Step #1.

9) Solder/shrink wrap the the following wires:
- Connect the (Yellow or Black) wire (PIN 86) from the Wiring Upgrade Adapter Plug to the Green/Yellow wire from the FPDM wire harness.
-Connect the Non-fused Red wire form the BAP to the Green/Yellow wire from the connector side of the FPDM..

10) Reconnect the harness plug that goes into the FPDM

11) Attach the BAP grounding wire (Black) and the Wiring Upgrade Adapter Plug grounding (Blue or White) wire (PIN 85) to the location where the FPDM is grounded.

BAP & Wiring Upgrade Grounding Location​

12) Time to run the 8 awg wire from the battery to the trunk:

-Attach the ring terminal lug to an end of the Red 8 awg wire included in your upgrade kit.

Under Hood Power Distribution Box Terminal​

-Decide on suitable location (within 12-16" of power distribution block on fuse box) for the 40 amp AGU fuse holder.

1) 40 amp AGU Fuse Holder & 2) Running theRed 8 awg wire through the firewall – Option 2 ​

-Cut the red 8 awg wire the correct length to reach the fuse holder location and attach the installed ring lug to the terminal.

-Attach the red 8 awg wire to the other side of the 40 amp AGU fuse holder.

-Mount the 40 amp AGU fuse holder in the desired location that you’ve previously selected.

-Here are different 2 procedures that can be utilized for running the red 8 awg wire through the firewall. (see above picture for Option #2)

Option 1: Using a big screwdriver, gently work the top edge of the 2" diameter rubber grommet on the firewall outwards until you have enough room to feed the red 8-awg wire through to the interior. From under the dash, carefully pull the wire through to the interior. Wrap several layers of electricians tape around the red 8-awg wires that is in contact with the firewall sheet metal for extra protection for the wire insulation. Reinstall the rubber grommet onto the firewall.

Option 2: Using a very sharp razor blade, carefully put a cut into the grommet on the topside. Be carefully not to go too deep and cut any of the factory wires. Use a metal coat hanger and tape the red 8-awg wire to it. Make sure you use enough tape so that when you pull the coat hanger from inside the car through the grommets you do not pull the coat hanger out of the tape. You can use WD-40 or a silicone spray lubricant on the grommet and electricians tape to help in this process.

-Install wire loom over all exposed 8awg wire in the engine compartment.

-Run the wire behind the driver’s side kick panel and underneath the door sill.

-Remove the rear seat by pulling it up slightly and reaching in and pressing in the two clips on either side of the transmission tunnel.

-Run the Red 8 awg into the trunk and to a location where it can be spliced with the (White or Yellow) wire from the Wiring Upgrade Adapter Plug (PIN 87). Solder and shrink wrap these two wires.

13) Use wire ties and electricians tape to secure all the wires involved in the install process.

14) Replace the 20 amp mini-fuse in Slot #14 in the fuse box under the hood (right behind the battery), with the 30 amp mini-fuse supplied with the BAP kit.

15) Reconnect negative terminal at battery.


Notes: -These directions are intended for installation of the 40 amp BAP kit which is the most commonly used for the 03/04 Cobra.

-The Red wire in the Wiring Upgrade Adapter Plug is NOT used. This is also the center plug on the relay so there is no need for it.

-The initial setting of your BAP Boost Controller can be anywhere from 25 to 30%, but to properly determine what you should set it at, you should datalog the car and pumps to indicate the proper setting for your application.

-If you would like the ability to have the BAP turn on and off based on boost pressure, eliminate Step #5 and wire the appropriate Hobbs switch to the red and black wires which are inside of the BAP black wire.

*Special thanks goes to BLK_03 & sb03cobra from modularfords.com for the installation pictures and to TRBO VNM for assisting in the writeup!

yes inst. but i cant print it cause its to wide?:shrug:

 

[03cobramanIII]

was bored at work so I drew this up before i installed my BAP. hope it helps some of u guys.

now this one here is simplier, but what about the intera switch does a wire go to it.

 

[flyboygeo]

Anyone get a relay with 5 pins? 30, 85, 86, 87 and 87a??? Do you just disregard the 87a?

 

[cobra_vert03]

I have an 8 gauge wire w/a fuse already ran to the trunk for a previous amp. So i was just curious if I could get the Relay from radio shack and do this??? if so, do I just ask for a 40 amp relay??

and i was also curious what the pros and cons were to pre fpdm and post fpdm were... I noticed that lethal sells fpdms for cars with BAPs on them. I plan to run my BAP full time after the upgrade.

thnx
Eric

 

[danny03cobra]

Ttt

 

[IronTerp]

I have an 8 gauge wire w/a fuse already ran to the trunk for a previous amp. So i was just curious if I could get the Relay from radio shack and do this??? if so, do I just ask for a 40 amp relay??

and i was also curious what the pros and cons were to pre fpdm and post fpdm were... I noticed that lethal sells fpdms for cars with BAPs on them. I plan to run my BAP full time after the upgrade.

thnx
Eric

Yes, you should be able to get a relay from an electronics store and make your own kit. Here's the best explanation I've seen on the Pre vs Post scenario:

The FPDM controls the pumps, wiring it pre-FPDM has the BAP supplying input power to the FPDM which allows the FPDM to control ouput, as it is designed to do, it just gives it more voltage to do so with. Wiring it post-FPDM has the output from the FPDM as the BAP's input and the BAP increases the voltage between the FPDM and the pumps. Now exactly why that doesn't work so well I'm not sure,maybe it is because the PCm is calling for a certain pump voltage, but that is being stepped up, and the PCM is constantly fighting the BAP? But I have seen first hand that it doesn't work as well as pre. The one time I tried post he fuel delivery seemed to be somewhat erratic, and the pumps could be heard constanlty running when the key was turned on. We went back to pre needless to say. I will say the duty cycle was slightly lower with it post though.

 

[MVD]

now this one here is simplier, but what about the intera switch does a wire go to it.

You mean the Hobbs switch?? If so he says in the little hand sketch diagram "cut apart and solder together to run full time".

 

[vr4_007]

how would these directions differ for someone with the same wiring kit but wants to provide enough juice for a modifed FPDM and a Fore hat with dual GT pumps

 

[QWKRN U]

how would these directions differ for someone with the same wiring kit but wants to provide enough juice for a modifed FPDM and a Fore hat with dual GT pumps

they wouldnt :shrug:

 

[03CobraVertGrey]

Ok, for those of you that will install a BAP WITHOUT a wiring upgrade, you'll want to make note of this:
First let me say this, the KB instructions are not only confusing but the 03/04 cobra supplement instructions included tell you to cut the brown/pink wire which is Post FPDM (not recommended)
If you are going with the recommended pre-FPDM BAP install, then you will want to make sure you connect the red FUSED wire from the BAP to the green/yellow wire (after cutting per instructions) going AWAY from the FPDM or in other words toward the wiring harness, which goes to the fuel pumps.
Then you connect the red NON FUSED wire from the BAP to the green/yellow wire going to the connector for the FPDM.

Another helpful note for a convertible BAP install is that the picture in IronTerp's write up for the location of the BAP is in a coupe and that support is NOT flat in a convertible. There is a flat spot on the floor of the trunk close to the fender where you can fit the BAP and get two screws in. I used some double stick foam tape to secure it and keep it from vibrating and then used some slightly longer screws to reach the metal floor board. Clink on link below for pic of BAP location.

A BIG thanks to IronTerp for his help during my install. :beer:

http://esimracing.com/jeremya/DSCF8418.JPG

 

[HorseDreams]

Video_Master just posted a Very nice Viso drawing of the wiring up over at our local SVTOA site right here:

http://www.svtoatc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=93115&posted=1#post93115