Do the super snake hoods use a weather seal at the back edge of the hood like the stock hood does? Also are the Red Line hood struts the best option for keeping the hood up?
Do the super snake hoods use a weather seal at the back edge of the hood like the stock hood does? Also are the Red Line hood struts the best option for keeping the hood up?
On the 13/14 SS hood, no seal.
And with the open vents on top, the seal would be little to no use, imo.
Hood struts, Shelby American sells specific ones for the SS hood. The SS hood is heavy af compared to a factory steel hood.
I won't do hood struts because honestly for me, the juice isn't worth the squeeze. To many variables could take place by trying to install struts.
SA markets most their SS that Ive seen with the traditional prop rod. Probably a reason for that.
I think @Robert M is gonna be your best source of info for your '07. I can only refer to my '13 which btw is not a CSM conversion.
Thanks for the response.
I didn't figure the seal was probably used but I'm sure it could be added. Just looks a little unfinished from the backside so I thought I'd check.
I was also wondering about the weather the hood struts were worth it and what kind of negative effect they would have bowing the fiberglass. I was thinking the stock hood was Aluminum on my 07 but the SS hood actually felt very close in weight to the stock hood. I don't bring my car to shows or anything so using the prop rod would be fine I just always thought the prop rod looked kinda simple or a little basic on these cars but not a big deal.
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Thanks for the response.
I didn't figure the seal was probably used but I'm sure it could be added. Just looks a little unfinished from the backside so I thought I'd check.
I was also wondering about the weather the hood struts were worth it and what kind of negative effect they would have bowing the fiberglass. I was thinking the stock hood was Aluminum on my 07 but the SS hood actually felt very close in weight to the stock hood. I don't bring my car to shows or anything so using the prop rod would be fine I just always thought the prop rod looked kinda simple or a little basic on these cars but not a big deal.
Does anyone have a recommendation on wether or not I should make the Ram Air portion of the hood functional and if so how I should do it for the best results?
Thanks for the response.
I didn't figure the seal was probably used but I'm sure it could be added. Just looks a little unfinished from the backside so I thought I'd check.
I was also wondering about the wether the hood struts were worth it and what kind of negative effect they would have bowing the fiberglass. I was thinking the stock hood was Aluminum on my 07 but the SS hood actually felt very close in weight to the stock hood. I don't bring my car to shows or anything so using the prop rod would be fine I just always thought the prop rod looked kinda simple or a little basic on these cars but not a big deal.
The scoop itself can
The scoop itself can be opened up, but the issue is getting the incoming air directed to the left side over the CAI. The newer non-ram air Super Snake hoods do not have the plenum incorporated into the fiberglass structure behind the scoop which directs the air to the CAI. If the rear area of the scoop is opened with no plenum to direct the air, it will simply flow high speed air into engine compartment, with no CAI ram air function.
R
Oh, that is a different story.......If the plenum is there, it would be up to you. Fresh outside air to an engine intake is always nice for performance.
I will mention that the Super Snake hood is a "fair weather hood". Unlike the GT500KR hood which had ducting in the R/A and Heat Extractor areas for water (rain etc.) to be directed, the Super Snake hood will allow water to flow directly to the CAI, if R/A functional and the heat extractors will allow water directly through to the engine area. If a person has a nice engine compartment, water does not play well with aluminum and metal that is not coated or plated.
Actually, if the CAI holes are not there, and the rear of the scoop area is open into the plenum, and you do get stuck in rain, water will enter the scoop and plenum area.....where will it go?
Definitely do test fit that hood before spending any money on it for finishing.......Just to verify the fit.
R
I do paint and body work for a living so I have already begun test fitting the hood and I made the holes for the billet Shelby GT500 hood pins I had on my stock hood. I am currently just using the prop rod for test fitting purposes and the drivers side has a little bow in it and sits slightly higher than the fender. It's also a little short in front on that side
I know I have the hood vents that I got from Shelby tucked away in the garage somewhere but someone told me to make sure they come with the covers underneath. Do you know what they are and if they would have come with the vents?
I don't generally drive the car in the rain but since there is a risk of getting unwanted moisture over the CAI I may refrain from making and vent holes.
If I decided to get the CPC hood struts do you know if I would have to order the Super Snake specific ones direct? I didn't see anyone calling them out as an option.
I have the TruFiber A53KR ram air hood. To it, I added hood pins and made the ram air completely functional.
Hood Pins:
You are probably familiar with the ones I have. They are the twist-lock 1970 Mach I hood pins, lol..
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I fabbed a pair of receivers, using the KR receiver design, but with a "D" shaped hole for these pins:
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As for the functional ram air, the hood comes with a rectangular opening but it is not placed in a position that does much good, so I had the underside reworked so that it matches the shape of my one-off air filter housing, making it a true ram air system.
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The trim "ring" is aluminum with threaded holes. The pic shows the hood just after it was painted and the "ring" still has masking tape on it. Because of the issues Shelby had with the MAF sensor signal being erratic with a ram air system which caused surging at normal cruising conditions (as best I recall), I decided to install this aluminum trim ring so that I can experiment with plexiglass block-off plates with varying hole sizes, shapes and hole locations to minimize the surging experienced by Shelby. I have come up with a final design which includes two triangular shaped holes.
I have the TruFiber A53KR ram air hood. To it, I added hood pins and made the ram air completely functional.
Hood Pins:
You are probably familiar with the ones I have. They are the twist-lock 1970 Mach I hood pins, lol..
View attachment 1667789
You would have to call them on the Super Snake specific struts, I have not seen them listed, I think I worked with Champion Mustang to get the set that I currently have......I believe they came with stickers that said "NXT Next Generation" or something like that? I did not install the stickers, I wanted the struts to blend in as if Ford had put them there (plain old Black)......and they do.
No rain covers for the original Super Snake heat extractors, who ever told you that was confusing the oem Shelby hood with the aftermarket Super Snake offerings. I have a new in box True Fiber GT500KR knock-off hood, it was available with the rain guards as an option, I bought them also.
R
.exactly. And I do mostly car shows. If the prop rod is the determining factor between 1st and 2nd place than there are bigger issues that need to be addressed. lol
I am curious how your hood prop rod would have stopped the wind from lifting your hood off of it and not suffering the same fate as the one with struts...is it because it sits a little closer to the closed position than one with struts?.
Early on in my 2011 ownership, I attended a car show & it was windy. I watched a hood blow back on a Bullitt Mustang windshield because the hood struts weren't up to the task.
This event cured me of ever wanting hood struts on either car.
....................My old fashioned prop rod has never let me down !!
I am curious how your hood prop rod would have stopped the wind from lifting your hood off of it and not suffering the same fate as the one with struts...is it because it sits a little closer to the closed position than one with struts?