Off the top of my head I think my SRA swap was worth 140lbs
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What did you do for your Terminator today?
- Thread starter mrose75
- Start date
Off the top of my head I think my SRA swap was worth 140lbs
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
That is a very good weight on that Cobra!
finished up my Cobra enough to move to my new condo. It was down for 15 months as I worked on it here and there. Didn't have a lot of time because I was working on Ducati's along with my day job and getting married. lol Yes I kept all the toys.
to sum up:
custom coolant setup to remove the expansion tank in the stock location(better airflow out the hood vents)
Mishimoto Radiator
Meziere electric water pump
PWM Fan/water pump controller(no thermostat)
Remote oil cooler, thermostat, and canton oil filter with replacable cartridge
Baer 6P brakes
Wilwood manual master cylinder and proportioning valve(redrilled brake pedal)
abs delete(ran new lines for the fronts)
Flaming River 20:1 manual steering rack
MM solid steering shaft for manual rack
MM bumpsteer kit
cruise control delete
relocated fuel pressure regulator to passenger side fender
ran new fuel hoses(10 year old aeroquip pushlock was getting brittle and started to smell)
Refinished fuel tank sum
Carter's Customs race splitter
Wrapped steering wheel in Alcantara(sewing it was tedious. I'll send i out next time)
To do:
finish rear seat delete and tidy up wiring
bump steer and 4 wheel alignment(did a simple front alignment just to drive the car 9 miles to new home)
Modify fender liners for better fitment
fix 3rd brake light crack
Install J&S safeguard
Adjust brake bias
fabricate master cylinder brace
new pullies
clearance lower pulley bracket for shorter accessorty belt(crank, AC, tensioner)
The manual brakes are excellent with a 7/8ths master cylinder, redrilled/pivoted pedal, baer 6p calipers and stock rears(may do 13" conversion). There's a lot of negative comments out there and only a few good ones. I will say the conversion is not for everyone because it is involved but it can be done. Thankfully I can weld, so I welded in a new pivot and reinforced the pedal box. I also did a lot of math to come up with the 7/8ths master cylinder and double checked it with a brake pressure guage to make sure I can put out proper line pressure. I have a solid pedal and can lock the fronts no problem (275f/315r). One thing I love about the manual brakes is I can now left foot brake without it being too sensative from the booster.
The steering I was hesitatant about. I started out with a cheap junkyard rack(15:1) as a sacrificial lamb, gutted it and removed the central seal to eliminate any fluid resistance). Most people cheap out and convert to manual by looping the lines. This works but you will still have significant fluid resistane. Anyway, the gutted 15:1 rack was hard to turn but not impossible and nowhere near as hard as looping the lines or just removing the power steering belt even with 275 front tires. I decided 20:1 was the way to go and splurged on the flaming river rack. It is super light and the quality is amazing. The removal of the power sterign pump, lines, cooler, and hydroboost realy cleaned up the engine bay. The steering isn't too bad from a stop but once moving it's not bad. On the road I love it. Effort is definitely higher than stock once moving but it doesn't take long to get used to. I feel more connected to the car and the road.
to sum up:
custom coolant setup to remove the expansion tank in the stock location(better airflow out the hood vents)
Mishimoto Radiator
Meziere electric water pump
PWM Fan/water pump controller(no thermostat)
Remote oil cooler, thermostat, and canton oil filter with replacable cartridge
Baer 6P brakes
Wilwood manual master cylinder and proportioning valve(redrilled brake pedal)
abs delete(ran new lines for the fronts)
Flaming River 20:1 manual steering rack
MM solid steering shaft for manual rack
MM bumpsteer kit
cruise control delete
relocated fuel pressure regulator to passenger side fender
ran new fuel hoses(10 year old aeroquip pushlock was getting brittle and started to smell)
Refinished fuel tank sum
Carter's Customs race splitter
Wrapped steering wheel in Alcantara(sewing it was tedious. I'll send i out next time)
To do:
finish rear seat delete and tidy up wiring
bump steer and 4 wheel alignment(did a simple front alignment just to drive the car 9 miles to new home)
Modify fender liners for better fitment
fix 3rd brake light crack
Install J&S safeguard
Adjust brake bias
fabricate master cylinder brace
new pullies
clearance lower pulley bracket for shorter accessorty belt(crank, AC, tensioner)
The manual brakes are excellent with a 7/8ths master cylinder, redrilled/pivoted pedal, baer 6p calipers and stock rears(may do 13" conversion). There's a lot of negative comments out there and only a few good ones. I will say the conversion is not for everyone because it is involved but it can be done. Thankfully I can weld, so I welded in a new pivot and reinforced the pedal box. I also did a lot of math to come up with the 7/8ths master cylinder and double checked it with a brake pressure guage to make sure I can put out proper line pressure. I have a solid pedal and can lock the fronts no problem (275f/315r). One thing I love about the manual brakes is I can now left foot brake without it being too sensative from the booster.
The steering I was hesitatant about. I started out with a cheap junkyard rack(15:1) as a sacrificial lamb, gutted it and removed the central seal to eliminate any fluid resistance). Most people cheap out and convert to manual by looping the lines. This works but you will still have significant fluid resistane. Anyway, the gutted 15:1 rack was hard to turn but not impossible and nowhere near as hard as looping the lines or just removing the power steering belt even with 275 front tires. I decided 20:1 was the way to go and splurged on the flaming river rack. It is super light and the quality is amazing. The removal of the power sterign pump, lines, cooler, and hydroboost realy cleaned up the engine bay. The steering isn't too bad from a stop but once moving it's not bad. On the road I love it. Effort is definitely higher than stock once moving but it doesn't take long to get used to. I feel more connected to the car and the road.
Wow thats a lot of cool custom stuff you got going on there!
Had an original GT pump die on me (car would fall flat on its face at 5k RPM's) so me and a buddy put the car on the lift, dropped the tank, popped in 2 new improved GT pumps (GSS342, I believe?) and buttoned it up. Starts and runs great...fill the tank...wake up this morning and there's a puddle under the tank. So I'm guessing one of the vent lines popped? Don't think it was the fuel hat, gasket was nice and flat and it's buttoned down, especially wouldn't make sense if the car just sat all night. So looks like I'll put it up on some rear ramps this weekend and start probing 
Side note: Tuner said I shouldn't need to worry about another tune with the pump change. Everyone agree on that?
Side note: Tuner said I shouldn't need to worry about another tune with the pump change. Everyone agree on that?
Had an original GT pump die on me (car would fall flat on its face at 5k RPM's) so me and a buddy put the car on the lift, dropped the tank, popped in 2 new improved GT pumps (GSS342, I believe?) and buttoned it up. Starts and runs great...fill the tank...wake up this morning and there's a puddle under the tank. So I'm guessing one of the vent lines popped? Don't think it was the fuel hat, gasket was nice and flat and it's buttoned down, especially wouldn't make sense if the car just sat all night. So looks like I'll put it up on some rear ramps this weekend and start probing
Side note: Tuner said I shouldn't need to worry about another tune with the pump change. Everyone agree on that?
If it happened after the fill up I'd check the filler neck gasket. They tear easily after being in one spot for a long time. I usually keep one on the shelf when I know I'm going to drop the tank just in case.
I would agree about not needing a tune.
Thanks on the tune advice.
I just put a new filler tube gasket in as we ripped the old one when pulling the tank. Quite possible it tore. I’ll look at that and see.
Do any of the vent tubes actually have fuel carrying capabilities?
I missed it but do you have an aftermarket had and fuel lines?
There are no vents, just evap lines. The system is sealed and when I was doing some digging it can detect a leak that a hair wouldn't fit through or something.
Fuel pressure reg should have you at the same pressure so no tune revision needed. Only reason that wouldn't be the case is if your volume increased more than the system could handle. That won't be the case with your pumps.
Oops you're still return less. Fpdm handles your fuel.
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Fuel pressure reg should have you at the same pressure so no tune revision needed. Only reason that wouldn't be the case is if your volume increased more than the system could handle. That won't be the case with your pumps.
Oops you're still return less. Fpdm handles your fuel.
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Still stock fuel system except for the ford fuel hat.
Isn't there a fuel pump voltage table that need to be logged and checked now that he's not using the stock pumps?Had an original GT pump die on me (car would fall flat on its face at 5k RPM's) so me and a buddy put the car on the lift, dropped the tank, popped in 2 new improved GT pumps (GSS342, I believe?) and buttoned it up. Starts and runs great...fill the tank...wake up this morning and there's a puddle under the tank. So I'm guessing one of the vent lines popped? Don't think it was the fuel hat, gasket was nice and flat and it's buttoned down, especially wouldn't make sense if the car just sat all night. So looks like I'll put it up on some rear ramps this weekend and start probing
Side note: Tuner said I shouldn't need to worry about another tune with the pump change. Everyone agree on that?
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Unless I've misread the fpdm will just spin up/down the pumps based on fuel needs captured by the frps.
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Got my radiator cover back from dip and finished up polishing my new CB.
Definitely not common mods. Sounds like you know what you want and know what you're doing. The cooling system mods are extensive. So why did you convert to manual steering and manual braking? Are you racing your Cobra on road courses? Just curious.
Got it. Thanks
Looks fantastic!
Thanks Todd.
Yea I've been open tracking but I do drive in the street as well. The hydroboost setup seemed like an unnecessary failure point for me. One failure can take out two essential controls(steering & brakss). Not good. They rarely fail but my power steering pump somehow air locked going into a turn. I lost steering and brake assist. Not a fun time. I knew ma ual brakes would be possible and not overly difficult with the correct math. Manual brakes on Mustangs get a bad rep because every company that sells manual master cylinder "kits" provide manager cylinders with bores that are way too big(1.125") good luck slowing that car down unless you run a longer pedal with different pivot point like maximum motorsports pedal.i didnt want to have to run a mismatched pedal so I run a 7/8" master cylinder and modified the brake pedal pivot point. I have a absolutely solid pedal and can lock the brakes no problem.(I'm not a particularly strong person either)
The cooling mod I had been planning for a couple years. It no longer has a thermostat restriction, is self bleeding, and coolant returns from all 4 corners of the heads(one through the heater core) and directly into the radiator. I mounted a coolant overflow tank behind the drivers side wheel, freeing up the obstruction to the drivers side hood vent and moving weight back.
Drove to work and rolled 84K miles today. Need to still figure out the ABS issue...
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