Another one bites the dust - a few questions

[downwardspiral]

I would think that the looser ring gaps will help some...as long as you're not detonating. Just curious...what grit hone did you use? Let us know how it goes. BTW cool toys.

Thanks haha, honestly it didn't even occur to me that they come in different grits. I don't think it's marked on the package.. it's the advance autoparts one. Hope it's ok :/. It seems like they only sell. 220 replacement stones so that's my best guess

 

[jlm961]

You may want to check on the finish required for your particular ring package with your engine guy. I was thinking most stock type rings get a cylinder finish with around a 400 grit. Different ring packages and materials differ though. I could be off on this. May not hurt to check on it as the rings may not seat right without the right finish. Just a thought. Highly doubtful you hurt it. A few passes with 220 probably didn't remove a thousandth.

 

[downwardspiral]

My engine shop said 220 is a little rough, and to use around 320. I'm debating just bringing it to them but it's going to be another $200 plus however long it takes. I may have to back burner this until I save up a little more.

 

[jlm961]

My engine shop said 220 is a little rough, and to use around 320. I'm debating just bringing it to them but it's going to be another $200 plus however long it takes. I may have to back burner this until I save up a little more.

Probably be best. You might get away with a couple swipes with a ball hone of the right grit sized for your bore hooked to a drill. I've done this on stock type rebuilds and it ran for several years. Never done it pushing the power levels you are though. If you try that route I think a ball hone is under 30 bucks. May have to order it because youre not gonna find that type of hone on the shelf at your local parts store. They are what we use for resealing hydraulic cylinders and stuff at work.If you do I would only take a handful of swipes down the bore. Just enough to take off the rough edges from the 220. You really don't want to remove any material , just obtain the correct surface finish. Like I said though I've never tried this with anything other than stock rebuilds on mild stuff so for what you're doing it would be kinda uncharted waters.

 

[downwardspiral]

They said I would need to take the crank out for them to hone it on the machine. I'm buying a 320 hone and seeing what happens. I'm going to clean everything out extremely well and see what happens. If I put it together and blows up it's my fault, I want to drive it again before next summer. I cut some corners but saved a few thousand dollars.

 

[jlm961]

You never know. You may just be surprised at how it may run when you get that tune ironed out. It sounds like you went pretty light with the 220 so I think you will be ok. A light surface hone shouldn't be enough to distort the bores. I've lightly polished 1018 steel round in a lathe that mic'd within a half a thou of what it was before. I just wouldn't get crazy with the hone. All you should need is just enough to remove any cylinder glaze.

 

[downwardspiral]

You never know. You may just be surprised at how it may run when you get that tune ironed out. It sounds like you went pretty light with the 220 so I think you will be ok. A light surface hone shouldn't be enough to distort the bores. I've lightly polished 1018 steel round in a lathe that mic'd within a half a thou of what it was before. I just wouldn't get crazy with the hone. All you should need is just enough to remove any cylinder glaze.

I have been reading posts on various forums on the topic and I'm not sure I should be sweating right now either. I was afraid of taking too much material so I did go very light. I think I may do more damage than good running a finer hone through the cylinders, I'm going outside to clean the hell out of everything now and I'm just going to hope for the best. My whole confusion is probably coming from people using the terms honing and deglazing interchangeably. I read a few stories of people using wet/dry sandpaper or scotchbrite pads with good results. I think the grit is more critical when using a fixed hone in a machine and actually removing material. I'm also noticing alot of the people recommending you make a second pass with a finer hone are also in the business of selling the things, and they go for $60-70 a piece. My inner engineer and junkyard hotrodder are at war right now, but the junkyard mentality usually wins. I know it's a coyote and it's the hotboy Ford motor, but it's the same principle as every other v8 ever made. I'm going to run a high-zinc break in oil in an attempt at the best ring seating possible... and I'm reading that they'll break in best with alot of hanging deceleration. I'm getting the rest of the parts I ordered the wrong quantities of around Tuesday so I should be able to slap it together next week. My $600 estimate is way out the window, I'm up to around $1000 in parts which would still be in addition to the forged pistons, upgraded oil pump gears and ARP bolts (probably another $3k+) had I gone the built motor route.

My motto is "we'll see what happens"

 

[jlm961]

Sorry. I misquoted that one. You can tell it's been a few years since I have bought these. Yep, actual honing and deglazing are two different animals. You may get away with what you have already done. I know that some of the higher end racing ring packages with a high chromium in the alloy take a much finer surface finish to seat properly. If the engineer in you is worried about it you might be able to take a sheet of 320 grit wet paper and some wd40 and lightly wipe the cylinders by hand in the direction of the cross hatches to knock off the roughness while removing basically nil.

 

[downwardspiral]

This is an awesome article I just came across.. Answered alot of questions for me http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

 

[jlm961]

This is an awesome article I just came across.. Answered alot of questions for me http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/maximizing-piston-to-bore-ring-seal.3897/

Good read. I already knew some of that stuff but picked up quite a few interesting tidbits. Of course any engine builder or machinist is going to have their own opinions on what works. If you're into hardcore engine tech check out the speedtalk.com forums. Lot of guys over there that have been building everything from old flatheads up to modern shit for decades. Of course you can't expect every top engine builder/machinist to spill all their secrets (I wouldnt either if it were my livelihood) but they do drop alot of neat tips and tricks learned from decades of experience and sometimes one of the big dogs will drop a good one.

 

[DrTriton]

McMaster-Carr sells the flex hones in 3 different grits and they are very reasonably priced. We use them all the time to de-glaze cylinder bores and they work great.

 

[jlm961]

McMaster-Carr sells the flex hones in 3 different grits and they are very reasonably priced. We use them all the time to de-glaze cylinder bores and they work great.

I may have to look into a new one myself for the coyote as I want to do my own at some point. At work we have big corporate accounts with McMaster and MSC...may have to look and see who gives the best price with the corporate discount in place.

 

[downwardspiral]

I really should start posting what I plan to do a week in advance so you guys can save my ass lol.

 

[downwardspiral]

Finally got all my parts, I still don't understand how Ford does their quantities.. apparently bearings are each even though they're sold in 2 packs. I have twice as many connecting rod bolts as I need though, they are sold in two packs too. Anyways I need to download the shop manuals before I continue, I can't find consistent torque values online. LMR has an infographic saying 60 inch lbs for the connecting rod bolts which I'm sure is wrong. I'll get back to it tomorrow morning. If all goes well I'll be driving it next week. I took off of work, so I definitely have time.

 

[ford20]

What torque values do you need? I'm mid rebuild myself, I only need to throw the cams in and torque down the timing assembly and front cover basically

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ss-302-teardown-and-rebuild)/page4&highlight=

 

[downwardspiral]

What torque values do you need? I'm mid rebuild myself, I only need to throw the cams in and torque down the timing assembly and front cover basically

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ss-302-teardown-and-rebuild)/page4&highlight=

Thanks, I think connecting rods, cams, phasers and head bolts. However it seems the markings on my timing chain came off so I need to figure that out too.. I think the values for the boss are different if I'm not mistaken. I'm probably just going to spend the $20 to "rent" the shop manual so I'm not a burden on anyone asking a million questions

 

[ford20]

They should all be the same values honestly. Maybe not the connecting rods but everything else should be the same. Let me shoot you some info in a little bit.

 

[downwardspiral]

Thanks Ford20, the pictures were a huge help.
This is just too funny/heartbreaking not to share. My garage is cluttered with crap and I'm working in close quarters. I was focusing on lining up the dowels in the block with the holes in the head so much I may have overlooked a minor detail. I started torquing the head down and the back bolts didn't really feel right. Luckily the wires crushed in a spot I can solder them and the connector wasn't damaged. The headgasket was missing some rubber and I already torqued the bolts so I have to order another set. Needless to say I will be paying more attention when I assemble the cams. I'm pretty scared.

 

[downwardspiral]

Alright, how the hell does the AC compressor go back on?! I can only get one bolt in at a time and can't get enough force upwards to strech the belt. I tried putting a jack under it but it was just lifting the whole engine. There's no where I see to get a pry bar on it either. Any magic tricks?

 

[DD2013 5.0]

Alright, how the hell does the AC compressor go back on?! I can only get one bolt in at a time and can't get enough force upwards to strech the belt. I tried putting a jack under it but it was just lifting the whole engine. There's no where I see to get a pry bar on it either. Any magic tricks?

Leave the belt off and assemble. Once everything is together stuff part of the belt behind the crank pulley and the other end round the AC comp pulley. Roll the engine over wile watching/guiding the bottom of the belt at the AC pulley.
The belt will stretch. Use a big zip tie to hold the belt onto the crank pulley if you have to