Time for new rotors

wheelhopper

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DO NOT use EBC! They will not hold up on the track (coming from someone with personal experience).

A big part of how well a rotor handles track use is how heavy the car is. When I tracked my Terminator I would crack my Advance Auto rotors on the third or fourth track day of use. Now that I run a car that is 500lbs lighter the same brand rotors last me twice as long, sometimes longer.

With that being said, EBC is used to designing pads and rotors for light cars. They are based in Europe.
 

Blkkbgt

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DO NOT use EBC! They will not hold up on the track (coming from someone with personal experience).

Could you elaborate for me a little?

I was simply thinking about using just the rotors. I have found several reviews where people stated that the pads came off the backing plate. That was enough for me to stop looking at their pads.
 

WPBcobra

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i used the ebc rotor in my old TT cobra and lasted me 5 to 6 track days. I am now using Brembo sport slotted rotors on my AI car and they have lasted me 8 weekends (16 days) and should be able to get 1 more weekend out of them. Spend a little more for better quality rotors.

Here is a link to them Brembo Sport Slotted Rotors
 

SVT_Troy

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i used the ebc rotor in my old TT cobra and lasted me 5 to 6 track days. I am now using Brembo sport slotted rotors on my AI car and they have lasted me 8 weekends (16 days) and should be able to get 1 more weekend out of them. Spend a little more for better quality rotors.

Here is a link to them Brembo Sport Slotted Rotors

Thats interesting, you don't hear many track guys recommending anything other than plain rotors. I'll keep an eye out for some brembos on sale though. I'm going to run HPS front/rear pads and the rotors mentioned above for the street. Carbotech XP10's and maybe those brembo rotors for the track. How does that sound/
 

David Hester

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i used the ebc rotor in my old TT cobra and lasted me 5 to 6 track days. I am now using Brembo sport slotted rotors on my AI car and they have lasted me 8 weekends (16 days) and should be able to get 1 more weekend out of them. Spend a little more for better quality rotors.

Here is a link to them Brembo Sport Slotted Rotors
From TireRack Brembo info

Overview



Brembo Sport Slotted Rotors (Performance Street, Autocross/Track)
Front Fitment
Style: Slotted
Finish: Gold
Note: (Front) Slotted vented rotors. Not recommended for track use. Do not use with race compound brake pads. Slotted rotors are not warranted against warping or cracking.


AND they are almost $300 a set.
Price: $280.00 (pair)
$238.00 Special
How is this a good thing?
 

mufflerbearing

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If you are serious, go with the hats and rings. No warping. Cooling ducts are a must. As you may notice, drilled are not even on the list. They crack out quickly.
 

SVT_Troy

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From what I've gathered on corner carvers these are the best rotors besides a two peice for the money. Front - Brembo OE Brake Rotor :: Brake Rotors :: Brakes :: Import Replacement Parts

But to get good life out of them you still need:
1. good brake cooling ducts that blows air to the inside of the rotor not on the inner face

2. Season the rotors good then bed the pads according to the manufacture.

3. before parking do a good cool down lap with minimum brake usage

4. When you get back to the paddock your rotors will still be hot. you need to roll your car a foot or so every 5 minutes. This will prevent uneven cooling of your rotors by having the caliper holding the heat in one spot on the rotor.

(Tips 1-4 was pulled from a couple of Bruce's post on corner carvers which I plan on following strictly)
 
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David Hester

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^ Good idea for any rotors/ pads!
Many (most?) "warped" rotors are nothing more than uneven pad deposits. Unless you are dragging your brakes for miles on end, they just aren't going to warp. I've mentioned I've raced for almost 30 years (35 counting motorcycles) and have never had a rotor warp. Crack, sure, but never warp. The scariest was the set of drilled rotors at Sebring.
We had a Camaro bite the big one when a front rotor cracked and came apart. Broken part jammed against caliper and sent him into the wall at 10 at Road Atlanta...was just the dip back then.

Lot of good info here. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
 
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a1yola

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When I first started open tracking I ran the brembo drilled rotors that I had on the car when I used it for street duty. After throwing n some hawk blue pads, they quickly started to show cracks between the drilled holes. Not good!

Since then I've been running centric blank rotors with very good results! They're pretty cheap (about $50 ea or so) and are very durable. Once they get too thin, I end up just getting new ones and don't even bother with getting them resurfaced.
 

David Hester

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LOL Yeah, We do a lot of things just starting out. I used drilled rotors once back in the early 90's.
I used Wilwood rotors and hats on my A/Sedan car. $30-$50 is cheap and they do last a long time if bedded correctly. The "warp" is from the way some rotors are made. They develop hard spots from local heat. $100 a season or two is less than the pads. $300 would set you up with pads and rotors.
Turning rotors for track just isn't a good idea. The whole idea, is the more mass, the more heat they can handle.
Shave, drill, slot away mass and you lose braking. Since the idea is to have as much surface area as possible, I always go with blank rotors. Think about why we use slicks over treaded tires........
I learned a LONG time ago, a lot of racing is gettin inside the head of your competitors. If they THINK you have something high zoot, it may be an advantage to you...till everyone figures out it REALLY isn't faster.
I'm a pharmacist and back in the 70's the Russian olympic athletes had this super duper energy supplement called bee pollen It was perfectly legal, and soon everyone was taking bee pollen.
Trouble was bee pollen is just the minerals and sugars bee collect from flowers. Same stuff as in honey...just without the bee vomit. Thing is Honey taste MUCH better.. if you don't think about the vomit part.

Econorheacer Dave ;-)
 
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SVT_Troy

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Haha yea I think I did comment on it bringing back to life. You know sometime you have to check to see if info changes. I'm learning now prepping over he winter for next spring! Ill be working on brakes and cooling mostly
 

Blkkbgt

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Since then I've been running centric blank rotors with very good results! They're pretty cheap (about $50 ea or so) and are very durable. Once they get too thin, I end up just getting new ones and don't even bother with getting them resurfaced.

Based on my searching and the info provided in this thread I am going with centric rotors.

What pads do you run?
 

David Hester

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Um. you may be leaving something on the table as far as stopping power with most any ceramic pad.
posi-quiet-105-ceramic-graph.jpg


Ceramic don't dust, but don't work at high temps either. Fine for street, but not sure they resist fade better than OEM pads... which is pretty much not at all. They aren't made for "performance use".
If you like Centric stuff, take a look at their Stop Tech 309 pad. Has got to be better than ceramic.
309graph7-10www.jpg
 
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Todd TCE

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Not bashing the company but using all these words in one sentence just doesn't add up to me.

top notch for drilled and slotted at cheaper than blanks price.

All rotors are blanks. Nearly all from China. When they get here various company drill and slot them, box them and ship them. How they got better and cheaper along the way remains the mystery...
 

David Hester

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^ What Todd said. Are any rotors made in Mexico or Canada anymore?
BTW Todd knows a thing or two about brakes.
 
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gcassidy

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The last set of PBR's I got were from China, that was about a year ago. I only used them for one session testing some different pads.
Not sure where the last Brembo's I got were from, that was about 2 years ago. I still have a couple sets in the garage. I'll have to check the boxes when I get home.
 

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