Return style wiring HOW TO allowing OE type fuel pump actuation

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Wicked46

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Sweet. Looks good. Did you opt for the additional override switch for setting and checking base fuel pressure? It just grounds pin 3 to chassis if you haven't already done it. It's in my earlier hand written wiring diagram I posted.

Not yet, but I might add the switch later :beer:
 

Co-brat

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Can we get some actual photos of this setup please!!! I want to do this but im terrible at wiring for one so a pic to me is worth a MILLION words. Also is this some wiring you did yourself? I just got my budget return kit, so can i wire it up using this method? I have never even seen the electrical shit back ther in the trunk so I cant even begin to picture any of this in my head.

ACTUAL PHOTOS PLEASE!!! This thread would be worth a whole lot more!
 
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MalcolmV8

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Can we get some actual photos of this setup please!!! I want to do this but im terrible at wiring for one so a pic to me is worth a MILLION words. Also is this some wiring you did yourself? I just got my budget return kit, so can i wire it up using this method? I have never even seen the electrical shit back ther in the trunk so I cant even begin to picture any of this in my head.

ACTUAL PHOTOS PLEASE!!! This thread would be worth a whole lot more!

Yes I wired my own from scratch. Honestly photos of my wiring looms back in the trunk will not help you at all. You'll just be more confuse by all the wires. If the wiring diagrams don't make sense to you and you've never wired anything up before I'd suggest grabbing a buddy who's got some wiring experience to help you out. Wiring up your relatively expensive fuel pumps for a fairly expensive motor is not a good first time wiring project on your own to learn things the hard way.
 

1320 Junkie

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Malcolm, Thanks again for posting this. I wired up my fuel system and all is GOOD! I made a sketch that applies to my set-up that might help out some more... The colors apply to my relays....

FUELINSTALL.jpg

So the fuel pumps just get chassis grounded? This diagram should help me out seeing I'm doing the return 400 walbros myself next week.
 

crfrider16

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So the fuel pumps just get chassis grounded? This diagram should help me out seeing I'm doing the return 400 walbros myself next week.


Absolutely pumps ground to chassis...the relays themselves are the only things that get grounded to the FPDM.
 
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Co-brat

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Yes I wired my own from scratch. Honestly photos of my wiring looms back in the trunk will not help you at all. You'll just be more confuse by all the wires. If the wiring diagrams don't make sense to you and you've never wired anything up before I'd suggest grabbing a buddy who's got some wiring experience to help you out. Wiring up your relatively expensive fuel pumps for a fairly expensive motor is not a good first time wiring project on your own to learn things the hard way.

No this wouldnt be the first time ive wired anything before and Im quite confident in my ability to do it, I just have never looked back there and seen what the FPDM and whatnot looks like. I guess im just going to have to open up my car and have a look see and compare to the above diagram.
 

MalcolmV8

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So the fuel pumps just get chassis grounded? This diagram should help me out seeing I'm doing the return 400 walbros myself next week.

Yeah just like crfrider said up above the only thing the FPDM is now controlling is your relay. So the pumps will just have power fed to them via the relays and then chassis ground.

great work Malcolm.:thumbsup:

Thanks man. It's nice to give back something useful after all the help I've gotten here over the years.
 

1320 Junkie

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If you decide to not use the fpdm to prime the line do you even need the damn thing? Im considering just running 2 dedicated 20A fused power wires so if needed i could just yank the fuse if i dont need the pumps on. I have a week to decide on which way im going to go seeing my fuel system is on back order with lethal, no fuel hats in stock.

Ill probably wire it up like posted above looks simple enough, plus ill get to use my soldering iron i just bought !!
 
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MalcolmV8

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If you decide to not use the fpdm to prime the line do you even need the damn thing? Im considering just running 2 dedicated 20A fused power wires so if needed i could just yank the fuse if i dont need the pumps on. I have a week to decide on which way im going to go seeing my fuel system is on back order with lethal, no fuel hats in stock.

Ill probably wire it up like posted above looks simple enough, plus ill get to use my soldering iron i just bought !!

No you don't have to use the FPDM and it can be removed if you really wanted. Just update your tune to not throw codes for it missing. However I think you'll really like it if you trigger your relay from the FPDM and it works like OEM.

Remember it's really no extra work. You have to run heavy wire already back to the trunk for the pumps. You have to wire the pumps to the relays already.
The ONLY difference is instead of triggering your relay with a key on power source (probably from the FPDM's power wire anyways) just use pins 10 & 3 on the FPDM to trigger your relay and that's it. You're done and it works like stock.

Also I recommend adding that extra little switch like I posted earlier in the thread. It allows you to flip it and the pumps will come on constantly while key is on. This is great for setting/checking base pressure with the engine off. I'm not flipping back through this thread right now but from memory it's a simple as wiring the switch to connect pin 3 of the FPDM to chassis ground.

Good luck and any questions just ask.
 

Leo0916

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GREAT write up MalcolmV8:beer:!!! I did mine last night and it worked great!
 

rider4life350

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EDIT - I figured out the solution towards the end of page 2. Here it is for those searching and finding this thread.

SOLUTION:
OK when I first wired up my pumps return style my thought process was to remove the FPDM from the equation as it's no longer needed. Instead I took the DG/YE wire (pin 9) as everyone suggested and used it to power my relay. The downside of course is the pumps run continuously when the key is on regardless of engine running.

The signal wire from the ECC is the WH/R at the FPDM side (pin 1). It provides the correct times for the pumps to be on such as prime and then off when motor is off. It alone however is to weak to drive a relay.

So the solution is as simple as using the FPDM output that would normally drive a fuel pump to drive your relay. Use pin 10 & pin 3 to wire your relay. This way the ECC still tells the FPDM when the pumps should be turned on and the FPDM in turn activates your relay.

Pin 10 = BN/PK (normally fuel pump positive)
Pin 3 = RD/BK (normally fuel pump negative)

Note: you must use pin 3 to ground the relay coil (trigger) and not chassis ground or it does not work.

There you go guys!!
Malcolm

do you splice into the brown/pink wire or do you cut it and leave the piece on the plug side just hanging like lethals instructions say?
 

MalcolmV8

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do you splice into the brown/pink wire or do you cut it and leave the piece on the plug side just hanging like lethals instructions say?

I'm not familiar with Lethal's instructions or wiring kits. I did mine myself. However in my setup yes you need to completely cut the wire as the FPDM is no longer supplying power to the pump. It only powers the relay.
 

rider4life350

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I'm not familiar with Lethal's instructions or wiring kits. I did mine myself. However in my setup yes you need to completely cut the wire as the FPDM is no longer supplying power to the pump. It only powers the relay.

so you just left the wire on the plug side hanging correct?
 

rider4life350

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No. You're referring to the wire from pin 10 of the FPDM right? BN/PK wire. I used it along with pin 3, RD/BK, to trigger my relay.

I assume its pin ten. its a brown and pink wire. the KB BAP was installed on this wire.

lethals instructions say "for 03-04 cobras your going to look for hte green/yellow wire. your going to cut that wire about 4" from teh FPDm connector. the wire thats still hanging from the connector is left along. (i think they meant alone) The other pice of that wire which leads back to the PCM your going to cripm onton theo blue wires"

so im thinking wire these blue ones to the brown and pink and the grounds to the black and red
 

Leo0916

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I assume its pin ten. its a brown and pink wire. the KB BAP was installed on this wire.

lethals instructions say "for 03-04 cobras your going to look for hte green/yellow wire. your going to cut that wire about 4" from teh FPDm connector. the wire thats still hanging from the connector is left along. (i think they meant alone) The other pice of that wire which leads back to the PCM your going to cripm onton theo blue wires"

so im thinking wire these blue ones to the brown and pink and the grounds to the black and red

yes, thats the way i did mine from malcolms instructions.. you can do the switch like he shows to test the pumps and set pressures or i just grounded the relays with my test light to run the pumps. it was to late to get a switch and i wanted to check for leaks.. Thanks again to malcolm for the post
 
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