you think it was just the grounds or did you find somthing wrong with the old harness you swapped out today? anyhow hope starts up for ya!
2003 DSG Build Thread, Project: Strega
- Thread starter Ironhand
- Start date
Congrats on finding the issue man!
Goodluck with the startup!
Let me know if I can help Cory
Sent with Riddla's massive johnson
Sent with Riddla's massive johnson
Small update:
I fixed the leak after the fuel filter and put the key on and found another 4 fuel leaks! 3 at the regulator which I couldnt get to. So off came the filter, maf, inlet tube, TB, and the crusher inlet. Now that was a pain!
I fixed the 3 leaks at the regulator. One was just a simple tightening the o-ring fitting and the fitting to it. The other was a really weird stray cut on my return line and it was just below the fitting. I cut it and put the fitting back on and that solved the problem.
Now for the fun part. The last leak was the middle -6 line at the 3 into 1 Y-block. After taken a 3.69 a gallon shower in E-85 I was able to drop the tank(again) then take the return line off the tank, the outside line and the middle line that had the problem. Once the line was removed I cut the hose off the fitting and found that the rubber hose on the inside had split from the beginning of the hose just inbetween the 1st and 2nd barb.
I was able to load my start up tune since the car has power. And just as a test, I pulled the power wire for the fuel pumps and tried to crank the car. It actually had enough juice to kick the big motor and blower over for the first time. It obviously didnt start but it showed life for the first time.
Tomorrow I will put the car back together and fix the fuel system, hope the car will fire early tomorrow given no other problems.
I fixed the leak after the fuel filter and put the key on and found another 4 fuel leaks! 3 at the regulator which I couldnt get to. So off came the filter, maf, inlet tube, TB, and the crusher inlet. Now that was a pain!
I fixed the 3 leaks at the regulator. One was just a simple tightening the o-ring fitting and the fitting to it. The other was a really weird stray cut on my return line and it was just below the fitting. I cut it and put the fitting back on and that solved the problem.
Now for the fun part. The last leak was the middle -6 line at the 3 into 1 Y-block. After taken a 3.69 a gallon shower in E-85 I was able to drop the tank(again) then take the return line off the tank, the outside line and the middle line that had the problem. Once the line was removed I cut the hose off the fitting and found that the rubber hose on the inside had split from the beginning of the hose just inbetween the 1st and 2nd barb.
I was able to load my start up tune since the car has power. And just as a test, I pulled the power wire for the fuel pumps and tried to crank the car. It actually had enough juice to kick the big motor and blower over for the first time. It obviously didnt start but it showed life for the first time.
Tomorrow I will put the car back together and fix the fuel system, hope the car will fire early tomorrow given no other problems.
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I just didnt trust the old PDB harness and Im glad you still had one laying around for my to put in my car.
I need pics of your power steering lines and the trans harness. Hoping I got it nailed down correctly.
Small update again.
After I fixed 1 fuel leak I found 3 additional others. The fittings were ripping into the rubber and folding them into the fitting end. I have one small leak yet to fix. It was minor enough that I tried to start the car today for the first time.
The starter hits and turns the motor slightly but wont turn it over all the way. I have a few things on their way and I have to get a new clutch cable tomorrow. Mine is beyond repair. Alittle more work tomorrow and hopefully get her fired up tomorrow. I wasnt expecting this many problems but continued until well after dark but it got too dark to work any longer. Hopefully have some good news tomorrow.
After I fixed 1 fuel leak I found 3 additional others. The fittings were ripping into the rubber and folding them into the fitting end. I have one small leak yet to fix. It was minor enough that I tried to start the car today for the first time.
The starter hits and turns the motor slightly but wont turn it over all the way. I have a few things on their way and I have to get a new clutch cable tomorrow. Mine is beyond repair. Alittle more work tomorrow and hopefully get her fired up tomorrow. I wasnt expecting this many problems but continued until well after dark but it got too dark to work any longer. Hopefully have some good news tomorrow.
Good luck tomorrow. I know exactly what your talking about with the small problems as i just experienced a bunch of them on yfzkevin's build.
Didn't you say that the starter already cranked over with no fuel? If it wont crank over now that your adding fuel is it possible that either your battery is too weak with the pumps on and trying to start it, or that your tune is too rich causing flooding?
Didn't you say that the starter already cranked over with no fuel? If it wont crank over now that your adding fuel is it possible that either your battery is too weak with the pumps on and trying to start it, or that your tune is too rich causing flooding?
I had my dads truck hooked up to my car with jumper cables, so Im a step ahead on that. Also, with the leaks, I havent set my base pressure yet, so I might need more as my regulator is only turned down about a third of the way.
After I fix the leak Ill put the jumper cables back and set the base pressure. If it was too rich it would keep trying to turn the motor over with a no fire condition. My start hits and the belts move a little bit then it stops and its done from there.
Im gonna put a 3 hook quadrant and a new clutch cable in it before the weekend and see if that fixes the no start condition. As it sits I cant move the clutch fork due to the clutch cable. Im hoping thats the hold up with the extra drag the motor seems to have.
If its not that then my starter is just not strong enough to kick the 5.4 and 3.4 over.
Hmmm that seems kinda wierd about the starter not turning it over. I know my stock start turns my stroker higher compression 3.4 crusher over with ease. It seemed just like it was a stock motor. It didnt even have a problem turning it over at all. I hope you figure out the little problems you are having. This car is gonna be a beast. I dont know what PSI your going to be running but make sure you get a none slip pulley and manual belt tensinor. I have bad belt slip on my car. Other then that, I dont have anymore issues. Good luck on finishing it up, you are starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel and all the money and time will be worth it all very very soon.
Finally good news. After fixing 2 fuel leaks. One from yesterday and one I caused(loose fitting), I am happy to report that there are no longer any leaks with the fuel system.
I broke out the SCT and datalogged with it for the first time tonight as well in order to set my base fuel pressure. Very nice software and pretty easy to use. The base pressure is set at 50psi and with the datalog up I was able to adjust the regulator down until I got it set. The low was 49.92 psi and the high was 50.2x psi. So it averages alittle over the 50psi mark the entire time. With the additional surprise that the fuel system didnt leak once it was hit with 50psi either. Before I set it the regulator was putting about 26psi of fuel pressure, so it should be good to rock from here on out. But Ill double check everything alittle later.
Tonight isnt over for me yet. I still have to put the tank back up and remount the 3 into 1 y block.
I broke out the SCT and datalogged with it for the first time tonight as well in order to set my base fuel pressure. Very nice software and pretty easy to use. The base pressure is set at 50psi and with the datalog up I was able to adjust the regulator down until I got it set. The low was 49.92 psi and the high was 50.2x psi. So it averages alittle over the 50psi mark the entire time. With the additional surprise that the fuel system didnt leak once it was hit with 50psi either. Before I set it the regulator was putting about 26psi of fuel pressure, so it should be good to rock from here on out. But Ill double check everything alittle later.
Tonight isnt over for me yet. I still have to put the tank back up and remount the 3 into 1 y block.
One thing I forgot to add
I got a new radio in and installed already, A set of 02 extenders for the front 02s,(rears will be deleted). I have a new triple hook quadrant and clutch cable on the way that should be here tomorrow. I also just order a set of the Global West Full Length Subframe Connectors.
I got a new radio in and installed already, A set of 02 extenders for the front 02s,(rears will be deleted). I have a new triple hook quadrant and clutch cable on the way that should be here tomorrow. I also just order a set of the Global West Full Length Subframe Connectors.
Looks like a really nice build. Only thing I think you will get in shit for is the regulator on the firewall I don't think Tech will allow that to pass. You will need to move it forward on the vehicle and off the firewall.
How much boost are you planning on running? The walbro pumps dont flow over like 80psi. I am not sure what yfzkevin's injector duty cycles were but he is running the 105lb/hr injectors as well. He is going to ask greg at RET what his duty cycle was looking like at 800whp. I kind of assume that the duty cycle was not high because greg didnt say anything, no news is good news right? We have the base pressure right at 40psi. Glad you got all the fuel leaks sorted out. Good luck getting it to turn over and fire tomorrow!
Thanks. And they have to find the regulator first lol. But this will probably never see the track. More of a street bruiser.
19-25psi tops. So it should only go up to 75psi of fuel pressure but the 50 psi is just to be on the safe side because the more cubes you have the more fuel you need as well.
One estimate I got from a tuner was the car could produce a tick over 900rwhp on "Bleed Mode" (E-85 and 25psi)
If it breaks over 800rwhp, which it should then Ill be happy. If it breaks over 800 only 21-23psi then I know the car will break the 900 mark. Eventually, I want a set of heads, my spec custom cams and a sleeved block with 360cid. But thats way down the road.
Smaller update:
Fuel tank is back up and good to go, lines and y block are remounted and secured. I just finished putting the crusher inlet back on as well. Look likes it might turn into a long night for me.
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Return is 100% duty cycle as the pumps are running full out all the time. All you can view if you have the FRPS is the injectors
Finally done for the night.
Managed to get the remander of the Crusher inlet installed. T/B, MAF, intake tube, and filter
I had to make my own steering shaft to work with the engine, header combo.
Here is the stock steering shaft
My version
Its a Flaming River 1 1/4 inch u joint that accepts 3/4 inch DD shaft. The other U joint is the Flaming River power rack adapter that goes to the stock Ford rack. It accepts 1 inch DD shaft. I had to have an insert made to fit into the U joint. Then machined the inside of the 1 inch DD shaft so the 3/4 inch DD shaft will slide into it. This is the first cuts after measuring it up. I got almost perfect out of the box.
Comparing both of them
Where the top ends up at
Here is the bottom going into the rack and sqeezing inbetween the header and inner fender.(No I didnt want to destroy 1200 dollar headers)
Just me working at night. lol G/F thought she would take a picture of me.
Managed to get the remander of the Crusher inlet installed. T/B, MAF, intake tube, and filter
I had to make my own steering shaft to work with the engine, header combo.
Here is the stock steering shaft
My version
Its a Flaming River 1 1/4 inch u joint that accepts 3/4 inch DD shaft. The other U joint is the Flaming River power rack adapter that goes to the stock Ford rack. It accepts 1 inch DD shaft. I had to have an insert made to fit into the U joint. Then machined the inside of the 1 inch DD shaft so the 3/4 inch DD shaft will slide into it. This is the first cuts after measuring it up. I got almost perfect out of the box.
Comparing both of them
Where the top ends up at
Here is the bottom going into the rack and sqeezing inbetween the header and inner fender.(No I didnt want to destroy 1200 dollar headers)
Just me working at night. lol G/F thought she would take a picture of me.
I was talking about fuel injector duty cycle and not fpdc :beer:.
ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
First Startup
Have an oil leak at the block adapter and fittings. Easy enough to fix
Have a coolant leak on the passenger side of the block. I think its a freeze plug. Ill heat cycle it once to see if that fixes it. If not then Ill replace the freeze plug. Unfortunetly its behind my motor mount plate.
First Startup
Have an oil leak at the block adapter and fittings. Easy enough to fix
Have a coolant leak on the passenger side of the block. I think its a freeze plug. Ill heat cycle it once to see if that fixes it. If not then Ill replace the freeze plug. Unfortunetly its behind my motor mount plate.
:banana:
what was the problem with it not turning over :shrug:
what was the problem with it not turning over :shrug:
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