ZDDP Additives for Flat Tappet cams

[Torch10th]

As some may well know, flat tappet cams have both literally and figuratively been taking a beating in the past couple years. Between supplier shortages, cheap Chinese junk and reformulation of motor oils, it's about a one-two punch for this style of valvetrain.

My 1969 Firebird has a relatively fresh 455 in it that utilizes such a cam. Fortunately to date I haven't had any issues, but then the engine doesn't get run much either. I'll be plating and insuring the car next month and hope to put about 3000-5000 miles on it over the rest of the year.

With that being the case, I want to protect the flat tappets as much as possible. Do the oil experts here recommend trying to locate motor oils with higher zink and anti-wear content, or do you instead prefer a ZDDP additive?

What are the guru's selections here?

 

[LS2GTO]

My UOA on the Rotella T6 full synthetic came somewhere in the 15xx range, which compared to other regular oils that only have 8xx.

Something like that would be more than enough zinc to keep that engine running smoothly.

 

[Torch10th]

Is that a recent UOA? I am getting conflicting reports on the ZDDP content of Rotella.

 

[4a7191a]

I think I read that t6 is down to 1200 ppm now

 

[Torch10th]

I think I read that t6 is down to 1200 ppm now

This is more along the lines of what I've been hearing as well. Since they started putting catalytic converters in heavy industry engines, the formulations have changed.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Never ever, and I repeat....NEVER use an additive. If you must add anything to any engine lubricant to protect your engine as intended, you chose the wrong engine lubricant formulation. Formulations are a delicate balance of additives and base oils playing well together. The wrong additive present can upset the entire balance.

Amsoil has formulations for old school flat tappet applications with high ZDDP native within. No reason to add anything, just pour it in and drive.

If your car is driven frequently, I'd use one of these formulations.

Amsoil AMO 10W-40

Amsoil ARO 20W-50

If your car is a garage queen, not driven often, I'd opt for one of their Z-Rod formulations.

Amsoil ZRT 10W-30

Amsoil ZRF 20W-50

 

[Torch10th]

Never ever, and I repeat....NEVER use an additive. If you must add anything to any engine lubricant to protect your engine as intended, you chose the wrong engine lubricant formulation. Formulations are a delicate balance of additives and base oils playing well together. The wrong additive present can upset the entire balance.

Amsoil has formulations for old school flat tappet applications with high ZDDP native within. No reason to add anything, just pour it in and drive.

If your car is driven frequently, I'd use one of these formulations.

Amsoil AMO 10W-40

Amsoil ARO 20W-50

If your car is a garage queen, not driven often, I'd opt for one of their Z-Rod formulations.

Amsoil ZRT 10W-30

Amsoil ZRF 20W-50

This is along the lines of what type of information I was looking for.

My car won't be a garage queen, but won't be a daily either. It may sit during the winter depending on the type of weather we get.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

This is along the lines of what type of information I was looking for.

My car won't be a garage queen, but won't be a daily either. It may sit during the winter depending on the type of weather we get.

I think Z-Rod is your choice. It's recommended for 5,000 miles or one year of use. I'd change the oil right before winter storage, do not start the engine all winter if it's to remain in storage. If you do drive it, that's fine, just make sure to get the oil up to temperature and keep it there awhile.

In the spring, take the car for a long 1 hour drive to condition the lubricant. That will make it good all spring, summer, and fall, right up until your annual oil change. Once a year saves money and time. This year, you will have to change it twice, since you are just beginning the cycle.

 

[Torch10th]

I think Z-Rod is your choice. It's recommended for 5,000 miles or one year of use. I'd change the oil right before winter storage, do not start the engine all winter if it's to remain in storage. If you do drive it, that's fine, just make sure to get the oil up to temperature and keep it there awhile.

In the spring, take the car for a long 1 hour drive to condition the lubricant. That will make it good all spring, summer, and fall, right up until your annual oil change. Once a year saves money and time. This year, you will have to change it twice, since you are just beginning the cycle.

Good info. How does that stuff hold up under track conditions? This isn't a race car, but I do plan on tracking it several times per season. HPDE stuff and maybe a couple trips down a drag strip.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Good info. How does that stuff hold up under track conditions? This isn't a race car, but I do plan on tracking it several times per season. HPDE stuff and maybe a couple trips down a drag strip.

What little you drive it, should be fine. However, I'd choose 20W-50 if you plan on any HPDE event.

 

[Mach828]

Where can I go to look up zdpp content in different diesel spec oils?

 

[SID297]

It's funny that you don't seem to hear about cam wear on Cummins ISB engines. I guess they just use good parts in them.

 

[WutApex]

.....but I do plan on tracking it several times per season. HPDE stuff....

That'll be cool to see that. You planning to come out this year?

 

[Torch10th]

That'll be cool to see that. You planning to come out this year?

I'm trying, but the build is progressing slower than I would like. I'm about a month out from completion, then I've got to work the bugs out of it.

 

[Torch10th]

It's funny that you don't seem to hear about cam wear on Cummins ISB engines. I guess they just use good parts in them.

A lot of what I've been hearing is more aftermarket or performance based parts issues. There's some really crappy lifters out there after a few companies got out of making them, which contributes. But with the lower zinc in most oils and lots of seat pressure for aggressive cam grinds, it's a recipe for failure.

When I do a rebuild on my engine in the future, I'll be going to a roller cam for these reasons.

 

[LS2GTO]

Is that a recent UOA? I am getting conflicting reports on the ZDDP content of Rotella.

It was from about 2 years ago, so probably could have been an older batch with alot more zinc in there. But even 12xx range is still pretty good compared to most other gasoline oils out there and almost merits not having to use an additive package separately.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Where can I go to look up zdpp content in different diesel spec oils?

Remove all doubt and use what's proven. High ZDDP and the best TBN (detergent additive) content on the market.

Amsoil HD Diesel Oil

This is assuming your truck does not have a DPF system. I'd recommend another formulation for that.

 

[SID297]

Remove all doubt and use what's proven. High ZDDP and the best TBN (detergent additive) content on the market.

Amsoil HD Diesel Oil

This is assuming your truck does not have a DPF system. I'd recommend another formulation for that.

That's what I'm currently running in the F-350.

 

[Mach828]

Remove all doubt and use what's proven. High ZDDP and the best TBN (detergent additive) content on the market.

Amsoil HD Diesel Oil

This is assuming your truck does not have a DPF system. I'd recommend another formulation for that.

Great, thanks for reply.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Great, thanks for reply.

You are welcome. Forgot to mention it's 100% true synthetic, not group III hydrocracked petroleum. You can double or triple the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval using it.