X-Pipe install gone wrong

Quadcammer

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this post makes my head hurt.

some incorrect info so far.
1. using a sawzall to cut off the cats will hurt the 02 sensors? WTF? unless he cut the 02 he didn't break an 02.

2. The EGR tube connects to the headers, not the h pipe.


NOW.

any time you take that h pipe off, you NEED to disconnect the battery. The starter is right there and banging around with the extensions and whatnot can cause some major problems if you hit it.
 

yoshis99_cobra

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quadcammer said:
this post makes my head hurt.

some incorrect info so far.
1. using a sawzall to cut off the cats will hurt the 02 sensors? WTF? unless he cut the 02 he didn't break an 02.

2. The EGR tube connects to the headers, not the h pipe.


NOW.

any time you take that h pipe off, you NEED to disconnect the battery. The starter is right there and banging around with the extensions and whatnot can cause some major problems if you hit it.

My stupidity caused all this. I should have disconnected the battery but I was kind of anxious to get it on. I should have taken my time and thought thru all of it first. Oh well. I was using a screw driver for something and touched the starter with it and guess what I got. That's right a spark. So I might have shorted something. I noticed I did get a secondary fuel pump OBD-II error. I cleared it and it never came back, but then again I haven't been able to start my car at all now. I'm thinking i screwed the fuel pump and need to get it replaced. Now the next question: if I did short circuit the fuel pump and ruined it, would me getting an aftermarket fuel pump be more beneficial than getting the stock replaced? If so, why and which one to get? I can always get the stock fuel pump, since it's under warranty still and I know people at Ford, and just sell it and have them put in the aftermarket one. What do ya guys think?

and thanks for all your help everybody.
 

lemosley01

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BmoseleyINC said:
I just recently did my off-road h on my 99 snake...Did you buy MIl eliminators? They are a main part, they fool the 02's into thinking nothing has changed so the Check engine light wont turn on. Even if yours isnt on right now, without those, it will eventually.

Guys, guys, guys. This has been discussed over and over. There are two sets of oxygen sensors on our cars.

1) Set 1, the sensors located between the catalytic convertors and exhaust manifolds, are the ones that the computer uses to monitor air/fuel ratio and adjust the fuel delivery appropriately. If these get screwed up, you will have drivability problems. Conversely, you do NOT want to put MIL eliminators on these O2 sensors because then the computer would not be getting legitimate readings from them and couldn't adjust fuel properly.

2) Set 2 are the sensors that are between the catalytic convertors and mufflers. These monitor the catalytic convertor efficiency are there ONLY for monitoring emissions. If they go bad it will not affect drivability. You will get a check engine light indicating that the cats are not functioning properly, but other than that the car will drive normally. This is the set that you place the MIL eliminators on.

Since you decided to use a sawz all which was not very good..You may have damaged you're 02 sensors. You have to be careful with those, they break easily.

This is probably exactly what happened. The sawzall damaged the forward sensors from vibration. Also make sure they are plugged in (doh!).

BTW, I touched my starter during the install and, although it scared the crap out of me, no other problems. Stupid and dangerous yes, but it shouldn't cause the kind of issues you are experiencing.
 

yoshis99_cobra

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lemosley01 said:
Guys, guys, guys. This has been discussed over and over. There are two sets of oxygen sensors on our cars.

1) Set 1, the sensors located between the catalytic convertors and exhaust manifolds, are the ones that the computer uses to monitor air/fuel ratio and adjust the fuel delivery appropriately. If these get screwed up, you will have drivability problems. Conversely, you do NOT want to put MIL eliminators on these O2 sensors because then the computer would not be getting legitimate readings from them and couldn't adjust fuel properly.

2) Set 2 are the sensors that are between the catalytic convertors and mufflers. These monitor the catalytic convertor efficiency are there ONLY for monitoring emissions. If they go bad it will not affect drivability. You will get a check engine light indicating that the cats are not functioning properly, but other than that the car will drive normally. This is the set that you place the MIL eliminators on.



This is probably exactly what happened. The sawzall damaged the forward sensors from vibration. Also make sure they are plugged in (doh!).

BTW, I touched my starter during the install and, although it scared the crap out of me, no other problems. Stupid and dangerous yes, but it shouldn't cause the kind of issues you are experiencing.

Yeah they're plugged in. I double and triple checked and had someone else check just to make sure. It was very late when we were doing it. So should I start with getting replacement O2 sensors for the front and see if that works? But now I can't drive it and get it on the lift that my friend has. It is sitting in his driveway though. I would just have to push it up his ramps to get it on the lift. Is it worth doing or should I just call a tow truck and have it sent over to Ford and let them deal with it? How much are O2 sensors anyway?
 

lemosley01

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yoshis99_cobra said:
Yeah they're plugged in. I double and triple checked and had someone else check just to make sure. It was very late when we were doing it. So should I start with getting replacement O2 sensors for the front and see if that works? But now I can't drive it and get it on the lift that my friend has. It is sitting in his driveway though. I would just have to push it up his ramps to get it on the lift. Is it worth doing or should I just call a tow truck and have it sent over to Ford and let them deal with it? How much are O2 sensors anyway?

There is a guy (Pintoman56) who sells 02 sensors on www.corral.net - 4 of them for like $70 or $80.

Otherwise, I believe they're about 50-60 each.

Instead of putting it on ramps, jack it up! If the car is not throwing codes it's hard to say for sure. I would start with the 02 sensors, but you could be the victim of bad luck and your fuel pump could be going out (or something else).

All you did was replace the H-pipe? No intake work or anything. Do you still have the stock MAF to put back on?

Does your buddy have a mustang as well? If so, you could swap his O2 sensors into your car, reset the computer and see if it makes a difference.
 

SnkBtn99

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What Lemo said ..... Dollars to doughnuts you have a bad sensor ... Oh and BTW, in the future try using some PB Blaster on your stuck bolts ... Spray some on and the worst rusted on bolts will slide right off ... No need to cut anything ...YIKES !!

Just for shits and giggles, I would reverse the first set of sensors near the manifolds to see if maybe you DID reverse them .... Apparently couldn't be any worse than it already is ...

This is a 1 man job that should only take 1 hour or less ... Just take your time and verify everythign you are taking off ... Use tape to mark anything you remove ....

Good luck ...
 

SGL

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first thing is first. make sure there are no vacuum leaks or unmetered air coming in or out of the engine. If the MAF sees only a portion of the air coming in, you will have problems.

By the way, for those that are scared of batteries, I MIG weld sometimes on the car and I don't even disconnect the ECU or battery. Been doing this for years. No problems ever.
 

03Cobra19

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SnkBtn99 said:
Just for shits and giggles, I would reverse the first set of sensors near the manifolds to see if maybe you DID reverse them .... Apparently couldn't be any worse than it already is ...
Good luck ...

I don't believe reversing them would matter. It's the same sensor all around is it not? Steal your buddies!
 

lemosley01

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yoshis99_cobra said:
I was getting a P1237 code which states a fuel pump secondary circuit malfunction. Any ideas now???

Bad pump? I don't have my tech CD in front of me so I can look and see if there is diagnostic procedure.

I'll try to remember to look it up when I get home.

So, it would appear you are a victim of circumstance...
 

BmoseleyINC

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AzDropTop said:
I've got one coming to the house. How is the SOTP feel? Thanks

Sotp thew pants feel is great..it screams up top now..I may have lost a little low end, but not very much, In second gear now at like 3k I roll into the throttle, it pushes my face skin back..Pulls quite nicely.

to YOSHI...My buddy eric accidentaly touched the starter with the wrench and it sparked ,but no problems afterwards, needless to say we remembered to remove it after that.

If you are getting a fuel pump code, the nthat is the reason your car is running like shit, your fue lpump was probley going out and not throwing very much fuel in..seeing how it wont even start now...could be toast. Check your fuses, fuel pump fuses can go out..
 

Quadcammer

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03Cobra19 said:
I don't believe reversing them would matter. It's the same sensor all around is it not? Steal your buddies!


nope they are front rear and side sensitive.

about this code.

give this a try.

turn the key to acc and open your trunk. Do you hear a slight buzzing? This is the fuel pump. If you are hearing this noise, your power supply is ok (no blown fuses etc).

get a cheap fuel pressure gauge and check to see if you get pressure while cranking.

i have all the diagnostic methods and they are very complicated and you need quite a few tools.

might just be the easiest to check for pressure. If the power is there (check with multimeter if you have one) but you get no pressure replace the pump.
 

HISSMAN

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quadcammer said:
nope they are front rear and side sensitive.

about this code.

give this a try.

turn the key to acc and open your trunk. Do you hear a slight buzzing? This is the fuel pump. If you are hearing this noise, your power supply is ok (no blown fuses etc).

get a cheap fuel pressure gauge and check to see if you get pressure while cranking.

i have all the diagnostic methods and they are very complicated and you need quite a few tools.

might just be the easiest to check for pressure. If the power is there (check with multimeter if you have one) but you get no pressure replace the pump.


Very good advice. I have had to do this exact method once before on my 98 cobra.
 

yoshis99_cobra

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I spoke to my Ford Mechanic and he said the o2 sensors are like 109 each. I bought crapped my pants. But I paid for them and need to pick them up. He said I can always return them if they either don't work or I don't need both of them. Which is cool. I just need to diagnose my problem and get it fixed. I'll try the fuel pump testing thing tonight and let you all know. I hope that it's the o2 sensor but I know it's a long shot. I'll disconnect the battery first too this time as a precautionary measure. Thanks for everyone's help. Worst thing about is that the x-pipe is on and I can't even drive her to see how she sounds. :whine:
 

yoshis99_cobra

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I turned the key to acc and I didn't hear the buzzing. :( I swapped out the O2 sensors anyway to see if it made a difference and still nothing. I'm having the dealer pick it up tomorrow and hopefully change out the fuel pump, if that's the problem. It's under warranty anyway and plus I have 3/4 tank of gas. Ha Ha.
 

REX-RACER

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yoshis99_cobra said:
I turned the key to acc and I didn't hear the buzzing. :( I swapped out the O2 sensors anyway to see if it made a difference and still nothing. I'm having the dealer pick it up tomorrow and hopefully change out the fuel pump, if that's the problem. It's under warranty anyway and plus I have 3/4 tank of gas. Ha Ha.

A word of warning, if you're taking your car in for warranty work and you have that x-pipe on there, especially if it is an off-road pipe ( no cats ) be prepared for the dealership to give you a ton of $hit and possibly try to void your warranty. They do this all the time it seems. Depending upon the nature and character of the service department they may let it slide or they may try to say that you've modified the car outside of it's OE condition and try to void your warranty.

Read here to get come info and insight about how to deal w/ these waranty issues:

http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8124

and

http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/magnusonmoss.htm

Good luck on gettin' it fixed!
 

trplblacksnake

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try the fuel pump reset switch. there is a little yellow or red button in the trunk. I had a problem with my V6 pushed that button in and it worked better. its an emergency shut off or something. just push it. it may work.
 

yoshis99_cobra

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REX-RACER said:
A word of warning, if you're taking your car in for warranty work and you have that x-pipe on there, especially if it is an off-road pipe ( no cats ) be prepared for the dealership to give you a ton of $hit and possibly try to void your warranty. They do this all the time it seems. Depending upon the nature and character of the service department they may let it slide or they may try to say that you've modified the car outside of it's OE condition and try to void your warranty.

Read here to get come info and insight about how to deal w/ these waranty issues:

http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=8124

and

http://www.granatellimotorsports.com/magnusonmoss.htm

Good luck on gettin' it fixed!

They're a pretty leanient (not sure of spelling) dealership. The mechanic who is working on my car has a built Mustang so he should let it slide if he can. I spoke to the service manager and he said he would warranty any part that is under warranty. So hopefully I should be good.

And as far as the fuel pump cut off switch I already checked that. It's good.
 

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