wrapped up bmr uca and brakcket, and driveshaft today

i want boost

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Well it wasn't easy, and it wasn't quick, started late Tuesday on the install after a couple hours knew I wouldn't finish so left it for today, had a bit of trouble with aligning the uca with the rear end, but got it all figuered out today, and installed, and removed, and installed again???

Well the bmr uca/bracket is a good product no doubt, future buys, and those who have already installed this keep reading, you may have done it wrong, no fault of your own

For starters, when I ordered the adjustable uca I was told it was packed with grease already, not true, so u may be looking another 25 bucks for a grease gun/ full syn. Grease. Now if you read earlier I installed this twice, and not for fun

As I was torqueing it all down I got to the bolt that attaches the uca to the rear end housing, and questioned the torque SPEC of this bolt, by I, i mean my brother who did help out for two hours. So I called bmr to clarify, and found someone dropped the ball, of all 5 bolts you must torque all but one had the correct specs in the instructions for 11+ stangs, some not so far off others 100+ft ibs off. So if u plan on buying it, I walould call bmr directly and clarify the, soon to be new SPEC sheet is correct.

Other than doing the install nearly twice, cause I was only about %80 done the first time ans having to drop another 25 of greasing the thing im pretty happy with it already

Now the driveshaft was a much simpler install, have a second person for this, will save imu a lot of pain and time, and make sure you slide it in place, in the right direction the first time.

Now I heard a lot about -2 and 2 degrees when installing this thing, well my angle finder was different, so u may not see those numbers or close to them, and just to help explain it another way...

I installed a coastl driveline btw, like it much I do

Ok so I checked each end several time for a accurate reading w/o driveshaft in the car, you place the angle finder on the face of your pinion and and face of tranny flange. Now this part may help others with setting your angles if u don't see a now number, now to wrap all the bs up, you want a parallel line so I had 92 degrees on my transmission and 88 on my pinion, sothere u go 98, 88...180 straight line, there it is, first try btw no adjustment needed.

Took it up to 120 threw it in neutral stick had less than stock vibration in it, so I am very pleased, so this seems to be telling me there is no issue, but maybe you guys with these one piece already can help me here

At neutral/decel, and when getting back in trottle sometimes, there is an ever so fait sound hight in pitch almost a whisle type sound, anyone know what this could be? Any others have this, is it normal???


While I remember off the top of my head for those already installed the two 18 mm bolts called for 80ft ibs this is all off my sheet, suppose to be 140

The bolt holding the uca to the rear end called for 240 suppose to be 129

The bolt holding the uca and bracket together called for 100 suppose to be 200

And last but not least the bolt going threw the body under the seat called for 240...and its right.

There u go because tomorrow when someone ask I want remember

O yea and the reason u want a second person for your driveshaft, for me I liked to cross torque those bolts in three steps, four really, snug, 25, 45, 65, and did this my self, and here's how it went, front and back were differnt, same concept just loaded and unloaded rear end suspension on ramps to hold wheels from turning, but anyway

E-brake, under the car, torque one bolt, out, ebrake, under, spin 180 degrees, out, ebrake, torque second bolt, out, e-brake, under spin, out, ebrake, under torque....you get the idea, borrow and extra for for 5 minutes.
 

BMR Tech

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Thanks for sharing!

To clarify:
While I remember off the top of my head for those already installed the two 18 mm bolts called for 80ft ibs this is all off my sheet, suppose to be 140
These are to be 80-85, as the instructions state.

The bolt holding the uca to the rear end called for 240 suppose to be 129
Correct, 129ft lbs

The bolt holding the uca and bracket together called for 100 suppose to be 200
It should have said, if it was not correct, 129-139...not 100. We have never had 100 for this. If you could send me a photo of that part, I would like to investigate internally how this could have happened. It should be minimum of 200, but can be slightly more. The only reason we went higher than the 2005-2010 cars, is because of the larger diameter bolt on the 2011+. Ours has actually been torqued to 139 on our 2011, for 3+ years and 300+ track passes.

And last but not least the bolt going threw the body under the seat called for 240...and its right.
Bingo.

Here is the copy I was reading when you called me earlier. This can be found on our web-site on the listings for the UTCA032 and UCM002:

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/UTCA034.pdf


Thanks again for sharing. If you have any questions, let me know!
 

i want boost

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Thanks for sharing!

To clarify:
While I remember off the top of my head for those already installed the two 18 mm bolts called for 80ft ibs this is all off my sheet, suppose to be 140
These are to be 80-85, as the instructions state.

The bolt holding the uca to the rear end called for 240 suppose to be 129
Correct, 129ft lbs

The bolt holding the uca and bracket together called for 100 suppose to be 200
It should have said, if it was not correct, 129-139...not 100. We have never had 100 for this. If you could send me a photo of that part, I would like to investigate internally how this could have happened. It should be minimum of 200, but can be slightly more. The only reason we went higher than the 2005-2010 cars, is because of the larger diameter bolt on the 2011+. Ours has actually been torqued to 139 on our 2011, for 3+ years and 300+ track passes.

And last but not least the bolt going threw the body under the seat called for 240...and its right.
Bingo.

Here is the copy I was reading when you called me earlier. This can be found on our web-site on the listings for the UTCA032 and UCM002:

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/UTCA034.pdf


Thanks again for sharing. If you have any questions, let me know!


Looks good, see my instuctions also stated to remove the old bolt from the oe uca/bracket, but did not clarify only if using stock bracket, which common sense should tell people this, when the bmr bracket comes with the new bolt in its place, but glad to see it in the instructions

Could definitely feel an improvement in the car
 

REDNIGHTMARE

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Yeah BMR is not the best when it comes to the instructions. As far as DS, if you hit 120 and threw it in neutral with no vibrations you are fine. If your pinion angle is off it would vibrate you out of the car. For the whine, may be coincidence and be the tranny. Or if you have 3.73's they'll do it too. MT-82's are known to whine. May also be the joint. Is it a u-joint or cv-joint? U-joints I was told can whine. If you are nervous however about pinion angle, here is an easy video on how check. Basics on How to Adjust Pinion Angle
 
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i want boost

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And just wanted to get that out there for everybody

Kelly here had someone on it right away when I was letting him know what my instructions were telling me to do

Also it was the seller who told me the bushing was already packed with grease, not bmr, thanks to Kelly I'm not riding around on a dry bushing
 

i want boost

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Yeah BMR is not the best when it comes to the instructions. I had the problem this guy had ^^^^. As far as DS, if you hit 120 and threw it in neutral with no vibrations you are fine. If your pinion angle is off it would vibrate you out of the car. For the whine, may be coincidence and be the tranny. Or if you have 3.73's they'll do it too. MT-82's are known to whine. May also be the joint. Is it a u-joint or cv-joint? U-joints I was told can whine. If you are nervous however about pinion angle, here is an easy video on how check. Basics on How to Adjust Pinion Angle

Well like u said, based on the 120 coast with zero vibration I can't be anything but certain the angle is spot on, u-joints
 

REDNIGHTMARE

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Well like u said, based on the 120 coast with zero vibration I can't be anything but certain the angle is spot on, u-joints

yeah man you are fine. Just do not look to far into it and make yourself find a noise or vibration. Will drive you crazy. If you want to really make sure....Take the car up to 140 lol
 

i want boost

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yeah man you are fine. Just do not look to far into it and make yourself find a noise or vibration. Will drive you crazy. If you want to really make sure....Take the car up to 140 lol

Oddly enough I never had the car abouve like 130, mainly becasue of vids of ppl snapping driveshafts
 

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