Won't shift smoothly after hard run and push into 3rd

[hmwave]

Did a quick run through the gears tonight from slow roll to three digits.
When shifting to 3rd it didn't go in smoothly so I pushed it through, not with high force but with firmer force above normal.
At the end of the run there was a slight smell of burning so the clutch might have been slipping some.

Now the box is not shifting smoothly like it was before the run.

Most shifts are notchy and clunk heavily. Sometimes it won't go into any gear at all without rolling the car, sometimes it's very smooth.
I rolled the car gently forward with the motor running and switched through the gears a few times. At some points in the slow roll the shifts were clean and easy, other points it wouldn't go in easily or at all.

I have a CF DF and a UPR FW adjuster which were working fine and smooth for the last year. I already checked the adjuster and the pedal has around a 1/2" of play as it's always had.

Did I bend a shift fork or the shifter itself?
What's the significance of the burning smell? Not sure how a slightly (or worse?) slipped clutch at high revs could cause this?
Would a bent shift fork forcing into third at high revs cause all gears to hard shift at certain positions of the drive shaft?

 

[MG01SVT]

Just throwing out ideas, but have you checked the condition of the cable. Make sure it is not stretched or frayed.

A

 

[MJM03COBRA]

sounds like you might have messed up the synchros I messed mine up the same way powershifting into 3rd. I hope it turns out to be something more simple.

 

[hmwave]

sounds like you might have messed up the synchros I messed mine up the same way powershifting into 3rd. I hope it turns out to be something more simple.

What did it take (time, $) to fix it?

I'll also check and readjust the cable as I need to get under there this weekend to change the oil.

 

[Oxford Snake]

Hmwave,

I missed a gear on several passes earlier this year at PR and I noticed after the run it was almost impossible to change gears. There was a lot of resistance to get it into gear. When I got back to the pits I would turn the car off and with the clutch in just row thru the gears, seemed to loosen up to normal after a few minutes.

Dave

 

[mike79]

After a few hard passes, my clutch does the same thing. It seems its something of a normal characteristic for this clutch.

 

[96stanggt]

The clutch gets too hot.......

 

[hmwave]

It's now been a few hundred daily driver miles since the problem started.

I notice its a little 'notchier' than before maybe half the time, and silky smooth the other half, stopped or rolling.

However when I roll to a halt on a downward slope its very hard to select any gear and reverse feels like I'm pushing against steel. If I let the car roll a little and stop it still won't go in. If I select any gear when slowly rolling down the slope it goes in without much fuss.
No such problems on horizontal or up hill roadways, stopped or rolling.

So, what did I bend or break?
Did I damage the clutch with the forced push into third (original post) or are these symptoms of a damaged gearbox, syncros or otherwise?

 

[I M fast]

Ok brotha you are gonna owe me a burger after this.... there is a tsb for this problem. It is for the throw out bearing and cluth cable. I had the same problem at the track and on the road. The night at the track I was lucky enough to see Sean Hyland there and asked him personally. He said that if you are slipping the clutch on take off you generate to much heat and the syncros will not let you in, unless you shift at like 5000 or 5500. But also it could be the factory piece of @#$% TOB. Ford did the job no questions asked, just called the service manager and told him the tranny was giving problems shifting and asked for the tsb to be done and walla! done. even got a tranny fluid change out of it. Car shifts better than new. Call the dealer and tell him you want it done.

 

[I M fast]

I missed gears a few times and the syncros are still good

 

[hmwave]

Ford did the job no questions asked, just called the service manager and told him the tranny was giving problems shifting and asked for the tsb to be done and walla! done. even got a tranny fluid change out of it. Car shifts better than new. Call the dealer and tell him you want it done.

I wish it were that easy. Mine is five months out of warranty.

Maybe I should have insisted the dealer do the sleeve update. See http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187784

 

[hmwave]

A few 1000's of miles now, still a little notchy but drivable.

However the vibration between 1000 and 2500 is getting worse and now I'm hearing a slight chirp when I press the clutch in lightly when in neutral.
Engine still revs to 6000 rolling or stationary without any discernible vibe when in neutral or with the clutch pedal depressed so I believe its the tranny or clutch parts.

 

[neckdemon]

sounds similar to the problem i've been having. sometimes the clutch feels nice and smooth, othe rtime sit feels as if it is binding a bit. sometimes the tranny doesn't want to go in gear. i am out of warranty as well, but ti took it in to let the techs diagnose it. it seems the problem is what they call an adapter plate. the part is about $300. it's part of the bellhousing it look like, and the bearing reatiner seems to be part of it. anyway, it has a revised part number they say. anyway, i bought the part and will be putting it on in the next week. hopefully it fixes the problem. i mean the car is still driveable but just doesn't seem quite right. clunkier than normal etc.......i'd bet that this is your problem also. the part nunber is 3R3Z7005-AA.

 

[hmwave]

Thanks. I suspect it's that part too. Mine still has the original OEM as my car was one of the first 03's built.

Do you feel a high frequency vibration through the pedals and the seat bolsters in yours between 1200 and 2500 rpm?

Please let me know how the swap goes and if it fixes the problem.

 

[JB]

The clutch gets too hot.......

exactly.....and then if it warps it will cause even worse symptoms

 

[neckdemon]

Thanks. I suspect it's that part too. Mine still has the original OEM as my car was one of the first 03's built.

Do you feel a high frequency vibration through the pedals and the seat bolsters in yours between 1200 and 2500 rpm?

Please let me know how the swap goes and if it fixes the problem.

i definitely feel a vibration in the clutch pedal that wasn't there in the beginning. the tranny is a lot clunkier than it use dot be. the tob is noisy. the clutch chatters when taking off from a stop. the driveline feels like it has alot more vibration in general. i will let you know how it goes.

 

[hmwave]

Thanks.

 

[rmgtc01]

i definitely feel a vibration in the clutch pedal that wasn't there in the beginning. the tranny is a lot clunkier than it use dot be. the tob is noisy. the clutch chatters when taking off from a stop. the driveline feels like it has alot more vibration in general. i will let you know how it goes.

I had my TOB replaced when it became hard to shift. At the same time I put in a full DFX setup. Had to go back 2 weeks later for the clutch pedal sounding like a machine gun. Turned out to be the TOB Retainer Sleeve.
They put that in and I got the firewall adj, and quadrant installed a little later.
Now I am getting a vibe in the pedal again. No drivability issues as of yet, but it definitely wasn't there after the install. I think the TOB or sleeve is sh!tcanned again. I will be going in Monday or so to have them check it out.