Wires Shorted, need help. PCM?

[Dana]

OK Guys I need some help here.
Saturday night, a short developed in the wiring below the passenger seat. 6 wires were shorted out. 3 of them appear to be grounds from various places, but 3 more aren’t.
Car won't start/anti-theft light flashing rapidly.
I found and repaired the shorted wires, but still no start.
The cooling fan kicks on too.
And the traction control button light is lit all the time.

The three that were not grounds are:
Gray/red, white/yellow, & brown/white.

I also got the following DTC from the instrument panel:

5284 = oil pressure switch failure (this one has disappeared after the wires were repaired)
d043 = SCP Invalid or Missing Data for Traction Control
d262 = Missing SCP Message
How do I clear these codes? Or will they disappear after the repairs?

With the basic OBD scanner I have, I can’t pull any codes from the PCM, It won't connect(link).


I have checked every fuse I can find and all are OK.

Did I fry the PCM or the Instrument cluster? And the ABS Module?
If the PCM, can I just order another from Ford and install it?
Or if it is the Instrument cluster can I do the same?
And how do I determine which it is?

I really don’t want to take the car in to Ford because it will have to be towed there and second, I will probably end up paying them to fix it because they will say it isn’t warranty.

Anyone got any ideas?

And the car was running so well. I just finished dialing in the A/F mix.

Thanks,
Dana

 

[mjchip]

Originally posted by Dana
The three that were not grounds are:
Gray/red, white/yellow, & brown/white.<snip>

Thanks,
Dana

Dan,

From my 2003 wiring manual:

GY/RD appears to be a signal return that goes directly to the PCM pin 91

BN/WH appears to be the sensor Vref signal from the PCM pin 90

WH/YE appears to be the electronic pressure control solenoid for cars with automatic transmissions - PCM pin 81 (not used on Cobra)

There is a YE/WH wire that goes from the fuel tank to the instrument cluster and is the fuel level sensor signal.

Give me a call later and we'll chat about how to diagnose this.

Sorry to hear about this misfortune.

MJ

 

[slythetove]

Any info on HOW the short developed??

 

[JB]

bummer.....

there's two 12-gauge fusible links that you can check, they're both gray and they come off the power distribution block in the engine compartment :shrug:

 

[Dana]

Sly,
As for how the short developed, it was caused by an oversight on my part. When installed the D/S loop, the bolt heads were away from the wire loom, but after the carpet and seat were installed one of the bolt heads came in contact with the loom. The rest is history. That is the reason I am reluctant to return the car to Ford. They may decide it isn't warranty.
I don't mind paying for the parts, but the labor will kill me.

Hope others don't make the same mistake I did. It may be worth checking if you have installed the D/S loop, as they all go in roughly the same position, the Metcos anyway.

JB,
I didn't check those. I wasn't aware they were there. Can you be very specific as to their location? The power distribution block, is that the large fuse block/Circuit breaker box next to the battery?
Do you recall what they feed? I'll check them tonight.

Thanks,
Dana

 

[JB]

Dana, you have a PM :coolman:

 

[Dana]

Ok, after some discussion with Mark (mjchip), I did some more checking in different areas. It turns out that the PCM is toast on the inside. Probably at least one set of signals is not being sent out to the rest of the car.
Now the question arises, even if I don't get Ford to warranty it, can I just buy one and have them flash it at the dealer then install it myself, or will I have to have the car towed to the dealer?

I though I had read somewhere that the Dealer could flash it back to the factory setup without it in the car.
Or was that person from the St. Louis area talking about this? Anyone remember who that was.

Anyone know for sure one way or another.

Thanks,
Dana

 

[slythetove]

You can buy one and install it, but you have to get a locksmith, or a shop with the proper equipment to set the PATS. Otherwise it's gotta be at the dealer.

 

[Elapidae]

Sorry to see/hear that happened to you. I don't have any advice but you've been a big help to a lot of us so I just wanted to say thanks for steering us from another potential issue. Hope you get it fixed quickly and cheaply

 

[Got Incon?]

Wow, that really sucks. Sorry to hear about your trouble.

 

[Dana]

The worst part about this whole mess is working days for the time being is really getting in my way of getting this thing up and running again.
Unless someone comes up with a plan "B", I guess I'll head over to the dealer and see what they can do for me as far as flashing a new PCM without the car being there.

On the plus side, I learned more about the electronics of the car and will learn even more before I am finished.

And I guess the Dyno with the Nitrous will have to wait too. Damn!! I was really looking forward to this next weekend:shrug:

I am still open for suggestions though...

Thanks for the kind words guys,
Dana

 

[mjchip]

Originally posted by Dana
The worst part about this whole mess is working days for the time being is really getting in my way of getting this thing up and running again.
Unless someone comes up with a plan "B", I guess I'll head over to the dealer and see what they can do for me as far as flashing a new PCM without the car being there.

On the plus side, I learned more about the electronics of the car and will learn even more before I am finished.

And I guess the Dyno with the Nitrous will have to wait too. Damn!! I was really looking forward to this next weekend:shrug:

I am still open for suggestions though...

Thanks for the kind words guys,
Dana

Dan,

I've got a plan 'B' for you. ;-) Call me tonight.

Mark

 

[maoun]

sorry i can't help, but good luck!
m.

 

[walker887]

dan ,
the EEC will need to be matched to the cluster.
All you need to do is go to a close dealer and ask who has the STAR experience, more than likely it will be a younger guy.
throw him a 12 pack a some cash and 15 minutes later you are good to go
D

 

[Dana]

Don,
That's plan "A".
I am going to go try to talk to someone at the local dealer (they are SVT, but not where I purchased the car) Friday (my first day off) and see what can be done. Then see about ordering the new PCM at the same time.
The problem is getting the car to the dealer. If I get someone to make a house call, I'm set. Otherwise, I'll have to have it towed in. I'm trying to avoid that.

Thanks,

Dana

 

[JoeAsheville]

Whew, that PCM is literally toast Dana. Hope it all works out to your satisfaction in the end...

 

[bassin247]

Dana,

What was the outcome?

 

[Dana]

The result was everything is back to normal.

The story is:
I purchased the new PCM for ~$230. I ended up getting the YDH1 code despite the fact that I had originally had the YDH0. Apparently Ford replaces with the latest code for that application.

I then had a local locksmith come to the house and get the dash and PCM communicating with each other. ~$125

The PCM was still throwing a code and required added data input because the locksmith can only do so much. At that point it was drivable, so things were better.

Then to Ford. They reflashed the PCM for me under warranty.
It took the tech a while because he hadn't done an '03 yet. This was the dealer I purchased the car from and is one of the good guys.

All is well now and I am a little smarter after that. I learned a lot.

Thanks for asking,

Dana

 

[flyn high again]

It looks like it worked out ok. $230 isn't bad for a comp. I washed my engine twice in my IROC and shorted the comp twice. Once under warranty. Once about $4-500 for new comp. Needless to say I didn't wash that engine any more.