Will this set work?

fast_cobra_r

fast_cobra_R
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Jan 24, 2006
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Big Boy Racing stage 1 competition DOHC heads:
310 intake
225 exhaust
500 lift

stage 1 cams:
.540x.540x.215

Full exshaust:
long tube headers
off road H pipe
3" cat back

twin 62mm throttle body
underdrive pullies
cold air intake
42lb injectors
centerforce dual friction clutch
pro 5.0 short throw shifter
predator tuner

the IRS has all been upgraded with maximum motorsports
the front also upgraded with maximum motorsports

17/9 bullet wheels front with nitto extreme zr 245/45/17
17/10.5 bullet wheels rear with nitto 555DR 315/35/17

What am I looking at for hp/ tq roughly. Any onther things I should add to this combo? And will I be able to beat 03/04 cobra's and the newer vettes?
 

Torch10th

I make hits
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Evans, Colorado
Well teh cam specs to begin with are wrong. They should be in intake and exhaust duration with the lobe seperation angle. duration can not possibly be more than 360, you list over 500 for both.

Are you increasing compression at all?

When going with more aggressive cams you usually sacrafice low-end for top end power. You can mitigate this a little bit be widening the LSA to flaten out the torque curve. Without bumping compression you may have an even bigger turd down low than these cars are from the factory.

In all honesty, unless you've got the money to explore new combinations through trial and error I would stick with a proven combo. PM Nazman and ask him some questions about his setup. He makes very good NA power. Mimicking a setup like his will likely yield better results then just throwing ported heads and big cams at the engine. Especially if you're not going to be upgrading the rods which really are near their RPM limit at 6800. You don't want to put a cam in the engine that you'll need to spin it to 8000 to make power. Not on teh stock bottom-end anyway.
 

themadgmkillr

99 Cobra...Yeah Baby..!!
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Madtown, WI
fast_cobra_r said:
And will I be able to beat 03/04 cobra's and the newer vettes?

no, not without more engine work, or FI...and then you'll still need engine work...save all the money you'll be sticking into the heads, cams, and labor for all that, and just forge your bottom end for boost...thats the cheap easy way, or PM Nazman for the expensive N/A way
 

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