WideBand Gauge Opinions

[laddanator]

Ok, guys, looking to get a wideband gauge. I did a search on here and came up with a million post, but couldn't find one with someone who has used the Auto Meter gauge. Here are my four choices. Love to hear from anyone with either a Innovate, AM or even a better gauge.

1. Innovate

http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-3873-Complete-Wideband/dp/B009AP975A

2. Auto Meter 5779

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JZN3DO...UTF8&colid=286WPHSU3LLHX&coliid=IG5AZIHVXPFFV

3. Auto Meter 5778

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-57...01469225&sr=1-16&keywords=auto+meter+wideband

4. Auto Meter 7378

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-73...401472913&sr=1-6&keywords=auto+meter+wideband

 

[1996MysticSnake]

I have an innovate mtx L and it works perfectly A/F was almost identical as the gauge they used when it was on the dyno

 

[laddanator]

I have an innovate mtx L and it works perfectly A/F was almost identical as the gauge they used when it was on the dyno

Nice! Does yours show the warmup count down? I noticed the AM gauges shows the 20 second warmup count down before the gauge displays the reading.

 

[encasedmetal]

i use the autometer digital cobalt a/f and it's awesome and has never had the problems that some other brands have when it comes to datalogging

 

[laddanator]

i use the autometer digital cobalt a/f and it's awesome and has never had the problems that some other brands have when it comes to datalogging

Nice! What I never figured out is why Auto Meter puts out 3 to 5 different series of the same gauge. Whats the difference in the Cobalt and the NV series? I like the NV series because the led color matches all my other green led gauge lights.

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-73...eywords=auto meter wideband&tag=5336337949-20

 

[Murder Snake]

had an ninovate and nothing but problems. never worked right and kept going thru o2 sensors. have an AEM now and have had 0 issues.

 

[laddanator]

had an ninovate and nothing but problems. never worked right and kept going thru o2 sensors. have an AEM now and have had 0 issues.

I decided to go with the Auto Meter. I looked at the AEMs, but the look of them didn't appeal to me. I know it's more than looks as you want something tha that works. I feel (I hope) the autometer does both, looks and reliability.

 

[Murder Snake]

did not look into those, but their quality is usually good. hope it works out all right.

 

[laddanator]

did not look into those, but their quality is usually good. hope it works out all right.

I have three AM now and happy with them. Let me ask you, how bright are the lights on the wideband gauges? I can't decide if I want to go 3 pod pillar or install the WB to a steering column pod. I figured if I mount the WB to the column pod, the light would blind me.

 

[Murder Snake]

my AEM one is not bad at all, the innovate was much brighter. I have mine on the "A" pillar and no issues with the brightness. no idea about the AM gauges.

 

[mwolson]

FYI, I use a PLX M300. Not cheap, but accurate and no free air calibration required.

Free air calibration is a PITA. Not sure if any of the ones listed here need that.

Another nice feature to look for is a narrowband simulator output. With that, you can put the WB into the stock O2 sensor bung, and get double duty out of the bung, no welding required.

 

[fulanititoo8198]

I've used PLX and it was excellent as well as the AEM UEGO I think it was called.

 

[laddanator]

FYI, I use a PLX M300. Not cheap, but accurate and no free air calibration required.

Free air calibration is a PITA. Not sure if any of the ones listed here need that.

Another nice feature to look for is a narrowband simulator output. With that, you can put the WB into the stock O2 sensor bung, and get double duty out of the bung, no welding required.

Very nice! I'm looking at the PLX now. How exactly goes this gauge feed the O2 reading to the PCM? Is there a wire that has to be spliced in? I figured once you plug the senor into the gauge, it would be a closed loop so to speak, so there must be a way for the PCM to get the O2 readings? My tuner said ( thanks Racecougar and mwolson ) we could fix the FPR being hooked to vacuum instead of boost ( going to hook into boost this week) thru email tune if I had a wideband. I've been wanting one anyway, so instead of paying for a new tune, I will invest in the gauge. The only thing I don't like so far about the PLX is how bulky it i, but do like how the sensor can be install in existing hole with no welding required. Mark, do you have a pic of how you have your mounted?

This is the one I found.

http://www.amazon.com/PLX-Devices-M...8&qid=1401624431&sr=8-5&keywords=plx+wideband

This is the one I ordered. Will be here Monday, but I could always return it

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-73...eywords=auto meter wideband&tag=5336337949-20


Looks like an easy way to test the A/F sensor

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=onbjzEOZtMs

 

[mwolson]

The PLX M300TE is much newer and nicer than my original M300, but it does basically the same stuff. I embedded mine in my dead CD deck, so i see the AFR where the CD track info used to be. It really confuses people who ride with me.

The one you ordered is a nice one and will work fine for you. However, it does not have a narrowband output, so you will need to weld in an additional bung somewhere. It looks like the datalogging output can be programmed to work with your soon to be added secret display unit, although the upper range will be limited by the 4V limit. A also do not see a calibration procedure so it must be self calibrating, which is a very nice feature.

If you decide to use a different unit with a narrowband output, then you can get a connector from a dead stock O2 sensor. You wire the narrowband output from the wideband sensor to the signal wire on the sensor connector. You leave the signal return wire unhooked. Then you put a 20 ohm, 10W resistor across the O2 sensor heater wires on the donor connector. That resistor simulates the sensor heater so the PCM won't throw a bad O2 heater DTC. I clamped that resistor to the top of the rear lip of my stock K-member with a big black spring paperclip. It has been there for years with no problem. I have passed CA smog every 2 years with no problems.

There are cheaper units than the PLX M300TE that also have the NB output. But the new M300TE has a function that tells you when the O2 sensor itself is going bad and needs replacement, if I remember correctly. I thought that was pretty cool.

I documented my install here: http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/Interior/PLXm300inCDdeck/WBembed.htm

 

[laddanator]

The PLX M300TE is much newer and nicer than my original M300, but it does basically the same stuff. I embedded mine in my dead CD deck, so i see the AFR where the CD track info used to be. It really confuses people who ride with me.

The one you ordered is a nice one and will work fine for you. However, it does not have a narrowband output, so you will need to weld in an additional bung somewhere. It looks like the datalogging output can be programmed to work with your soon to be added secret display unit, although the upper range will be limited by the 4V limit. A also do not see a calibration procedure so it must be self calibrating, which is a very nice feature.

If you decide to use a different unit with a narrowband output, then you can get a connector from a dead stock O2 sensor. You wire the narrowband output from the wideband sensor to the signal wire on the sensor connector. You leave the signal return wire unhooked. Then you put a 20 ohm, 10W resistor across the O2 sensor heater wires on the donor connector. That resistor simulates the sensor heater so the PCM won't throw a bad O2 heater DTC. I clamped that resistor to the top of the rear lip of my stock K-member with a big black spring paperclip. It has been there for years with no problem. I have passed CA smog every 2 years with no problems.

There are cheaper units than the PLX M300TE that also have the NB output. But the new M300TE has a function that tells you when the O2 sensor itself is going bad and needs replacement, if I remember correctly. I thought that was pretty cool.

I documented my install here: http://www.classictiger.com/mustang/Interior/PLXm300inCDdeck/WBembed.htm

I remember seeing a pic of your WB gauge now. I like the way that looks in your CD player. I had ordered the AM before I saw your post. I want the most accurate gauge possible since the data I'm sending my tuner is important for the email tune. The bung part isn't so bad. I've got an appointment lined up with my muffler buddy to weld it in. I really like the PLX setup, just not sure how to mount it. I don't have the CD option like your setup.

 

[mwolson]

You will do fine with what you ordered. Just make sure to weld the bung in so that the sensor is pointed mostly down into the pipe. If condensation is allowed to sit in the sensor, it will quickly ruin the sensor.

 

[laddanator]

You will do fine with what you ordered. Just make sure to weld the bung in so that the sensor is pointed mostly down into the pipe. If condensation is allowed to sit in the sensor, it will quickly ruin the sensor.

If i'm to understand this correctly, the sensor also needs to be closer to the manifold as possible? Now I just need to figure out where to mount the gauge, the A pillar or steering column. I don't have enough gauges to put into one of those dual cluster cover gauge pods. Not a big fan of those anyway.


Thanks for the info, Mark!

 

[Murder Snake]

the A pillar or steering column. I don't have enough gauges to put into one of those dual cluster cover gauge pods. Not a big fan of those anyway.


Thanks for info, Mark!

you can get a single pod and mount it to the a pillar. i started out that way and then wound up getting a temp gauge so just got another single and mounted it to. had I known, I would have gotten the two pod a pillar and been done, but works out the same anyway and I can pick where on the a pillar I wanted it/them.

 

[laddanator]

you can get a single pod and mount it to the a pillar. i started out that way and then wound up getting a temp gauge so just got another single and mounted it to. had I known, I would have gotten the two pod a pillar and been done, but works out the same anyway and I can pick where on the a pillar I wanted it/them.

I have a two gauge A pillar now with my fuel pressure and boost gauge. I would either order the 3 pod A pillar from LMR or go with a steering wheel column, which I like, but worry about the light being too bright and shining in my eyes at night.

 

[Murder Snake]

the other consideration is you have to look down to the column pod, eyes off the road longer than the a pillar.